Garment Construction Techniques
Order of work
Construction follows a logical sequence: prepare pattern and fabric, mark and cut, tack, sew darts, join main seams, insert closures, attach facings and collars, set sleeves, add hems and fastenings, then press. Pressing at each stage (not just at the end) gives a professional finish.
Seams and edges
- Plain seam: general use, pressed open or to one side.
- French seam: encloses raw edges, ideal for sheer or lightweight fabric.
- Flat fell: strong, neat, used on jeans and shirts.
- Overlocked/zigzag: neatening only. Edges are finished with facings, bias binding, or a rolled hem. Darts shape fabric; they are stitched from the wide end to the point and tied off, not backstitched, for a smooth finish.
Closures and details
Zips (concealed, centred, lapped), buttonholes, hooks and eyes, and snaps. Set-in sleeves need easing; gathering distributes fullness evenly.
Traps
- Backstitching at a dart point, causing a bump.
- Using a French seam on heavy fabric.
- Pressing instead of tacking, stretching bias edges.
- Sewing a zip before the seam is pressed.
Rule of thumb
Neaten as you go and press every seam before crossing it. Worked example: a lightweight voile blouse - use French seams so no raw edges show through, and press each seam flat before the next stage.