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FGIA InstallationMasters practice questions

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Question 1Replacement installation

In a replacement window installation, what is the primary function of the sill pan or sill flashing?

  1. To seal the rough opening against air infiltration only
  2. To provide a rigid bearing surface for the window frame
  3. To collect and drain water that penetrates behind the window to the exterior Correct answer.
  4. To level the rough sill before setting the window

Explanation

A sill pan or sill flashing is a drainage system that intercepts any water that gets behind the window unit and directs it back to the exterior through weep paths or end dams. It is not a structural or air-sealing component, though it may contribute to both. Proper slope and end dams are essential for it to function.

Question 2Replacement installation

When installing a replacement window into an existing frame using a pocket or frame-in-frame method, what must be verified before ordering the new unit?

  1. That the existing exterior trim is vinyl
  2. That the existing glass is tempered in all locations
  3. That the existing sash weights have been removed
  4. That the existing frame is square, level, and plumb within tolerance and structurally sound Correct answer.

Explanation

Frame-in-frame replacement relies on the existing frame as the new attachment and sealing surface, so it must be sound, square, level, and plumb. If the old frame is rotted or out of tolerance, a full-frame replacement is usually required. Glass type and trim material do not determine whether the pocket method can be used.

Question 3Replacement installation

What is the correct order of operations when flashing a replacement window in a wall with a weather-resistive barrier?

  1. Apply sill flashing first, then set the window, then head and jamb flashing in shingle fashion Correct answer.
  2. Apply head flashing first to shed water, then jambs, then the sill last
  3. Apply flashing only at the corners after the window is fastened
  4. Install the window, then apply flashing over the nailing fin in shingle fashion starting at the sill

Explanation

Water must be shed outward and downward, so the sill pan goes in first, the window is set into it, and jamb and head flashing are layered over the nailing fin in shingle fashion. Each upper layer overlaps the one below. Applying flashing after fastening in the wrong sequence allows water to enter behind the layers.

Question 4Replacement installation

A replacement window is being installed in an opening where the rough opening is 1/2 inch wider than the window frame on each side. What is the standard practice for shimming and fastening?

  1. Shim at the sill, jambs near the head, and check for square, level, and plumb before fastening through the frame Correct answer.
  2. Shim at the corners only and rely on expanding foam to fill the gap
  3. Fasten the frame directly to the rough opening without shims to avoid bowing
  4. Shim only the head to hold the unit in place while foaming

Explanation

Shims transfer the window load to the rough opening and hold the frame square, level, and plumb while fasteners are driven. Shims are typically placed at the sill and at jamb fastening points, with the unit checked diagonally before final fastening. Foam alone does not provide structural support.

Question 5Replacement installation

Why should low-expansion polyurethane foam be used rather than high-expansion foam around a replacement window frame?

  1. High-expansion foam can bow the frame and bind the operating sash Correct answer.
  2. High-expansion foam does not adhere to wood framing
  3. Low-expansion foam is the only product rated for exterior use
  4. High-expansion foam cures too slowly to allow same-day finishing

Explanation

High-expansion foam can exert enough force to deflect window frames, which distorts the frame and can make operable sashes bind or leak. Low-expansion foam fills the gap and insulates without deforming the unit. Cure time and adhesion are not the deciding factors.

Question 6Replacement installation

What is the purpose of backer rod in the joint between a replacement window frame and the rough opening?

  1. To provide structural support for the frame
  2. To act as a thermal break between the frame and the wall
  3. To control joint depth and prevent sealant from adhering to the back of the joint Correct answer.
  4. To wick moisture away from the joint

Explanation

Backer rod controls the depth of the sealant joint so the sealant forms the correct hourglass shape and adheres only to the two sides, allowing proper movement. It also prevents three-sided adhesion, which causes sealant failure. It is not a structural or thermal component.

Question 7Replacement installation

When replacing a window in a masonry wall, how is the new unit typically fastened?

  1. With nails driven into the mortar joints only
  2. With construction adhesive alone
  3. Through the nailing fin into the masonry with masonry screws or anchors Correct answer.
  4. With screws driven into the interior drywall

Explanation

In masonry openings, the window is fastened through the frame or fin into the masonry using appropriate masonry screws or expansion anchors. Fasteners must reach sound masonry, not just mortar or interior finishes. Adhesive alone does not provide a reliable mechanical attachment.

Question 8Replacement installation

What does a measurement taken at the rough opening's narrowest point represent for a replacement window order?

  1. The nominal size that should be rounded up to the next whole inch
  2. The size of the existing sash, not the frame
  3. The dimension used only for the head flashing width
  4. The maximum unit size that will fit, so the new frame must be smaller than this dimension Correct answer.

Explanation

The narrowest rough opening dimension governs the maximum unit that will fit, and the new window must be ordered smaller than that dimension to allow for shimming and sealing. Measuring at the widest point risks ordering a unit that will not fit. Accurate measurements at multiple points are essential.

Question 9Replacement installation

In a full-frame replacement, what typically must be done with the existing interior and exterior trim?

  1. It is removed to access the framing and replaced or reinstalled after the new unit is set Correct answer.
  2. It is reused only if it is vinyl
  3. It is cut back only at the head
  4. It is left in place and the new unit is slid behind it

Explanation

Full-frame replacement removes the entire old window including the frame, so interior and exterior trim must be removed to access the rough opening and fastening points. New trim or reinstalled trim finishes the installation. Leaving trim in place is characteristic of pocket replacement, not full-frame.

Question 10Replacement installation

A replacement window is installed and the sash will not close flush at the top corner. What is the most likely installation-related cause?

  1. The screen was installed incorrectly
  2. The weatherstripping is the wrong color
  3. The glass unit has lost its seal
  4. The frame is out of square or twisted because of improper shimming or over-tightened fasteners Correct answer.

Explanation

A sash that will not close flush usually indicates the frame is racked out of square or twisted, often from uneven shimming or fasteners driven too tight. Checking the diagonals and re-shimming typically corrects it. Glass seal failure and cosmetic items do not cause the sash to bind.

Question 11Replacement installation

What is the minimum recommended clearance between the top of a replacement window frame and the rough opening head to allow for structural deflection?

  1. Zero; the frame should contact the head directly
  2. Equal to the width of the nailing fin
  3. At least 2 inches
  4. About 1/8 to 1/4 inch, filled with sealant or foam Correct answer.

Explanation

A small gap at the head, typically about 1/8 to 1/4 inch, accommodates structural deflection and allows the joint to be sealed. The frame should not be jammed tight against the head. The gap is filled with sealant or low-expansion foam after shimming and fastening.

Question 12Replacement installation

When replacing a window, why is it important to check that the rough opening is plumb before setting the unit?

  1. Plumb is required only for exterior appearance
  2. Plumb is needed only for fixed windows
  3. A plumb opening ensures the weep system drains and the sash operates correctly Correct answer.
  4. Plumb determines the color match of the trim

Explanation

If the opening is not plumb, the installed frame can be out of level or racked, which affects sash operation, weather sealing, and drainage. The frame must be set plumb and level regardless of window type. Appearance is secondary to function.

Question 13Replacement installation

What role does the exterior weather barrier play at the head of a replacement window opening?

  1. It is installed behind the head flashing to allow drainage into the wall cavity
  2. It is lapped over the head flashing so water sheds onto the flashing and away from the opening Correct answer.
  3. It replaces the head flashing entirely
  4. It is sealed tight to the frame with no flashing

Explanation

The weather barrier is lapped over the head flashing in shingle fashion so water sheds down the wall and onto the flashing, then away from the opening. The flashing must be integrated with the barrier, not replaced by it. Correct lapping prevents water from entering behind the flashing.

Question 14Replacement installation

Which factor most directly determines whether a pocket replacement window can be ordered to fit an existing opening?

  1. The age of the existing glass
  2. The interior and exterior dimensions of the existing frame opening Correct answer.
  3. The color of the existing interior trim
  4. The brand of the existing window

Explanation

Pocket replacement units are sized to the existing frame opening, so accurate interior and exterior dimensions are required. Trim color, glass age, and brand do not determine whether a unit can be ordered to fit. Measuring the existing frame opening is the key step.

Question 15Replacement installation

A window is being installed in a wall with a drainage plane. Where should sealant be applied at the jambs and head?

  1. On both interior and exterior sides to fully seal the joint
  2. On the exterior side over the flashing, leaving weep paths open at the sill Correct answer.
  3. Only at the corners
  4. On the interior side only

Explanation

Sealant is applied on the exterior over the flashing at the jambs and head to shed water, while the sill weep paths must remain open to drain. Sealing both sides can trap moisture. Interior sealing is handled separately with air-sealing materials that allow drainage.

Question 16Replacement installation

What is the purpose of an end dam on a sill pan?

  1. To prevent water from running off the ends of the pan into the wall Correct answer.
  2. To level the sill pan
  3. To hold the window frame in place during fastening
  4. To provide a nailing surface for the head flashing

Explanation

End dams turn up at the ends of the sill pan to keep collected water from spilling into the wall cavity, directing it to the exterior instead. They are part of the water-management system. They do not provide structural support or nailing surfaces.

Question 17Replacement installation

After installing a replacement window, a small gap remains between the frame and the rough opening on the interior side. What is the appropriate treatment?

  1. Fill it with mortar
  2. Leave the gap open to allow drainage
  3. Cover it with exterior trim only
  4. Fill it with low-expansion foam and seal with a flexible sealant or backer and sealant Correct answer.

Explanation

The interior gap should be air-sealed with low-expansion foam and a flexible sealant to stop air leakage while allowing minor movement. Leaving it open permits drafts and moisture entry. Mortar is not appropriate for a joint that needs to accommodate movement.

Question 18Replacement installation

When removing an existing window for replacement, what should be checked on the rough framing before installing the new unit?

  1. That the framing is painted
  2. That the framing is free of rot, insect damage, and obstructions, and is structurally sound Correct answer.
  3. That the framing matches the new window color
  4. That the framing is made of engineered lumber

Explanation

The rough framing must be inspected for rot, insect damage, and obstructions so the new window has a sound, secure attachment and the opening can be properly sealed. Cosmetic or material-type considerations do not affect installation integrity. Repairing damaged framing before installation prevents future failure.

Question 19Replacement installation

A replacement window is installed with fasteners driven through the nailing fin. What is the recommended fastening pattern?

  1. Fasteners only at the head and sill
  2. One fastener at each corner only
  3. Fasteners spaced along the fin at the manufacturer's specified interval, typically every 4 to 12 inches, with fasteners near corners Correct answer.
  4. Fasteners only through the interior frame

Explanation

Nailing fins should be fastened at the manufacturer's specified spacing, commonly every 4 to 12 inches, with fasteners placed near corners and shim locations to secure the frame evenly. Corner-only or partial fastening leaves the unit inadequately anchored. The fin must be flat and not over-driven.

Question 20Replacement installation

What is the consequence of over-driving fasteners through a nailing fin?

  1. It increases the window's thermal rating
  2. It has no effect on performance
  3. It improves the seal by compressing the fin
  4. It can crack the fin, distort the frame, and create a water entry point Correct answer.

Explanation

Over-driving fasteners compresses and can crack the fin or distort the frame, breaking the seal and creating a path for water. Fasteners should be driven snug, not so tight that the fin is crushed. Proper depth preserves the flashing and sealant integrity.

Question 21Replacement installation

In a replacement installation, what is the purpose of a head flashing?

  1. To shed water away from the top of the window and direct it over the jamb flashing Correct answer.
  2. To provide a stop for the sash
  3. To seal the interior joint
  4. To support the weight of the window

Explanation

Head flashing sheds water from above the window and laps over the jamb flashing so water is directed down and out. It is part of the shingle-lap water-management system. It does not carry the window's weight or seal the interior.

Question 22Replacement installation

A replacement window is being installed where the existing opening is out of square by 3/4 inch. What is the best course of action?

  1. Correct the rough opening framing or use a custom-sized unit so the window can be installed square, level, and plumb Correct answer.
  2. Force the new window into the opening and rely on foam to fill the gap
  3. Ignore the out-of-square condition because it does not affect operation
  4. Install the window and cover the gap with wider trim

Explanation

An opening out of square by 3/4 inch is beyond normal tolerance and should be corrected by adjusting the framing or ordering a unit that fits properly. Forcing the window or hiding the gap with trim does not correct the underlying problem and can cause operation and leakage issues. The frame must be installed square, level, and plumb.

Question 23Replacement installation

Which practice best prevents water infiltration at the sill of a replacement window installed over an existing sloped sill?

  1. Installing a sloped sill pan with end dams and keeping weep paths clear Correct answer.
  2. Packing the sill gap with insulation only
  3. Sealing the entire sill with a continuous bead of sealant and no weep path
  4. Installing the window tight against the sill with no shims

Explanation

A sloped sill pan with end dams directs water to the exterior, and clear weep paths allow it to escape. Sealing the sill completely traps water, and insulation alone does not manage drainage. Shims are still needed to support and level the unit.

Question 24Replacement installation

When a replacement window is installed in a stucco wall, what is a critical step to maintain the drainage plane?

  1. Remove the stucco entirely around the opening
  2. Integrate flashing with the weather barrier behind the stucco and seal the stucco-to-frame joint with a flexible sealant Correct answer.
  3. Seal the stucco directly to the frame with no flashing
  4. Rely on the stucco itself as the flashing

Explanation

In stucco walls, flashing must tie into the weather barrier behind the stucco so water that gets behind the cladding drains out, and the stucco-to-frame joint is sealed with a flexible sealant. Stucco is not a flashing material. Removing stucco entirely is unnecessary and disruptive.

Question 25Replacement installation

What is the recommended method for sealing the joint between a replacement window frame and a rough opening when significant movement is expected?

  1. A continuous bead of construction adhesive
  2. A flexible sealant with backer rod to control joint geometry Correct answer.
  3. Rigid epoxy
  4. Portland cement mortar

Explanation

When movement is expected, a flexible sealant accommodates expansion and contraction, and backer rod controls joint depth and prevents three-sided adhesion. Rigid materials crack under movement. Adhesive and mortar are not appropriate joint sealants for this application.

Question 26Replacement installation

A pocket replacement window is being ordered for an opening with an existing interior stool and stops that will remain. Which measurement set must the installer take to size the new unit?

  1. Width between the exterior stops plus the depth of the wall cavity
  2. Width and height of the rough opening after removing the old frame
  3. Width and height of the visible opening between the existing jamb surfaces, at multiple points Correct answer.
  4. Width of the exterior brick mold only, plus the sill slope

Explanation

A pocket replacement fits inside the existing frame, so the controlling dimensions are the inside surfaces of the existing jambs, head, and sill. Measurements must be taken at several points because existing frames are often out of square, and the smallest width and height govern the order. Rough opening dimensions apply only when the old frame is removed.

Question 27Replacement installation

During a replacement installation, the installer finds the existing sill is rotted soft wood beneath the old window. What is the correct action before setting the new unit?

  1. Cut out the decayed material and replace or repair the sill with solid, properly sloped material Correct answer.
  2. Pack the soft area with sealant and set the window on top of it
  3. Shim the new window above the soft spot and proceed
  4. Cover the soft area with flashing tape and install the window

Explanation

Fasteners and the sill pan need sound, solid material to bear on and to hold a slope. Decayed wood must be removed and replaced so the new sill support is solid and drains outward. Sealant, shims, or tape over rot do not restore structural support and will allow movement and water entry.

Question 28Replacement installation

What is the standard purpose of setting blocks under a replacement window sash in a sliding or hung unit?

  1. To lock the sash so it cannot be opened after installation
  2. To raise the sash so the lock engages more easily
  3. To transfer sash weight to the frame and keep the sash operating without bearing on the sill Correct answer.
  4. To seal the weep system against air infiltration

Explanation

Setting blocks carry the weight of the sash so it does not rest directly on the frame sill, where it could distort weatherstrip or block weep drainage. They also help keep the sash square in the frame so it operates smoothly. They are not a weather seal or a locking device.

Question 29Replacement installation

An installer is replacing a window in a wall finished with vinyl siding. How should the siding around the new window be handled to allow proper flashing and sealing?

  1. Cut the siding back and leave the gap open for drainage
  2. Remove siding courses around the opening, install flashing in shingle fashion, then reinstall siding over the flanges Correct answer.
  3. Install the window directly over the siding and seal the perimeter with caulk
  4. Nail the window flange through the siding without removing any courses

Explanation

Siding must be removed so the weather barrier and flashing can be lapped correctly, with upper layers shedding over lower ones. The window flange or frame integrates into that drainage plane, and the siding is reinstalled so it overlaps the flashing. Installing over finished siding traps water behind the cladding.

Question 30Replacement installation

Which condition most often requires a full-frame replacement rather than a pocket replacement?

  1. The existing frame and sill are sound but the glass seal has failed
  2. The existing window has a broken sash lock
  3. The existing frame is rotted, out of square, or of a profile that cannot accept an insert unit Correct answer.
  4. The homeowner wants a different glass package in the same frame

Explanation

A pocket unit depends on a serviceable existing frame to nest into and fasten through. When that frame is deteriorated, badly out of square, or incompatible with available insert profiles, the frame must come out and a full-frame unit installed. Glass, hardware, and cosmetic issues alone do not require frame removal.

Question 31Replacement installation

In a replacement installation, what is the correct relationship between the new window unit and the interior finished wall surface?

  1. The unit should always be pushed tight to the exterior sheathing regardless of interior finish
  2. The unit should project at least one inch past the interior wall plane
  3. The unit should be set so the interior face aligns with the finished wall or existing trim line, allowing the interior stop or trim to cover the frame-to-wall joint Correct answer.
  4. The unit should be recessed so the sash sits behind the interior drywall

Explanation

The unit must be positioned in the wall depth so the interior side lands at the finished wall or trim line. That lets the interior stop or casing cover the joint and keeps the window visually correct from inside. Depth is a design decision, not a fixed push to the sheathing or an arbitrary projection.

Question 32Replacement installation

What is the purpose of checking the diagonal measurements of a replacement window frame after setting it in the opening?

  1. To determine the glass thickness required
  2. To verify the exterior trim length
  3. To confirm the frame is square before final fastening and sealing Correct answer.
  4. To measure the wall cavity depth

Explanation

Equal diagonals confirm the frame is square; unequal diagonals indicate racking. Racking causes binding sashes, poor lock alignment, and uneven weatherstrip contact. The check is done before final fastening so shims can be adjusted while the frame is still movable.

Question 33Replacement installation

A replacement window is being installed in an opening where the existing sill has a positive outward slope. What should the installer do with the new sill pan?

  1. Install the pan sloping slightly inward so water stays behind the window
  2. Install the pan so it follows and maintains the outward slope toward the exterior Correct answer.
  3. Omit the pan because the existing sill already slopes
  4. Install the pan flat and rely on sealant to move water out

Explanation

A sill pan must drain to the exterior, so it must follow the outward slope of the sill it covers. Flat or back-sloped pans trap water against the frame and promote rot. A pan is still needed even when the substrate slopes, because the pan provides the watertight, lapped collection surface.

Question 34Replacement installation

When applying flashing tape at the jambs of a replacement window opening, how should the tape be lapped relative to the sill pan?

  1. Jamb tape should stop above the sill pan and be sealed with caulk
  2. Sill pan should lap over the jamb tape to shed water outward
  3. All three layers should be butted, not lapped, to keep the wall flat
  4. Jamb tape should lap over the sill pan upstand, with the head tape lapping over the jamb tape Correct answer.

Explanation

Flashing works in shingle fashion: water must always encounter an upper layer that sheds onto a lower one. Jamb tape therefore laps over the sill pan upstand, and head flashing laps over the jamb tape. Reversing the laps creates a path for water to get behind the flashing.

Question 35Replacement installation

What is the recommended treatment for the gap between a replacement window frame and the rough opening when the gap exceeds what sealant can bridge?

  1. Fill the entire gap with expanding foam regardless of depth
  2. Leave the gap open to allow drainage and air movement
  3. Fill the gap with fiberglass insulation only
  4. Fill the gap with backer rod to the proper depth, then apply a joint sealant over it Correct answer.

Explanation

Backer rod provides a bond breaker and controls sealant depth so the sealant can move with the joint. It also stops sealant from falling into a deep gap. Expanding foam can distort frames if overfilled, and open or loosely filled gaps allow air and water movement.

Question 36Replacement installation

An installer is setting a replacement window and finds the opening is plumb but the head is 1/2 inch out of level. Which approach is most appropriate?

  1. Return the unit because it cannot be installed in an out-of-level opening
  2. Set the unit following the out-of-level head so the frame matches the opening
  3. Set the unit level and square, shim as needed, and close the resulting gap with flashing and interior trim Correct answer.
  4. Force the head of the opening level by jacking the wall

Explanation

The window itself must be installed level and square for the sash to operate and seal correctly. The opening's irregularities are taken up with shims and covered by flashing outside and trim inside. Matching the frame to an out-of-level head racks the unit and causes operating problems.

Question 37Replacement installation

Why must fasteners through a replacement window frame be located per the manufacturer's instructions rather than at arbitrary points?

  1. Fasteners are placed only where the frame is thinnest for easier driving
  2. Fastener spacing is set by the siding manufacturer, not the window maker
  3. Any location works as long as the screw penetrates the sheathing
  4. Fastener locations are engineered to transfer wind load to the framing without distorting the frame or interfering with hardware Correct answer.

Explanation

Manufacturers specify fastener type, spacing, and location so wind loads reach the structural framing and so screws do not crush the frame or hit internal hardware. Arbitrary placement can miss framing, distort the frame, or void the product's ratings. Following the published instructions is what preserves performance and warranty.

Question 38Replacement installation

What is the correct way to handle the existing interior casing when performing a pocket replacement that keeps the existing frame?

  1. The casing must always be removed and replaced with wider trim
  2. The existing casing can usually remain; the new unit is fitted inside the frame and the interior joint is finished to the existing trim Correct answer.
  3. The casing is left in place but the drywall around it must be cut back
  4. The casing must be removed to allow the frame to be cut out

Explanation

A pocket replacement is designed to fit within the existing frame, so interior casing often stays in place and only the joint between the new unit and the old frame needs finishing. Removing casing is typical of full-frame work, where the frame itself comes out. Preserving trim is one of the main advantages of a pocket installation.

Question 39Replacement installation

A replacement window is installed in a wall with an exterior drainage plane, and the installer is detailing the head. Which arrangement is correct?

  1. Head flashing is installed over the top flange and lapped over the jamb flashing so water sheds to the exterior Correct answer.
  2. Head flashing is installed behind the weather barrier with no lap to the jambs
  3. Head flashing is omitted because the top flange is self-sealing
  4. Head flashing is installed under the sill pan to protect the sill

Explanation

At the head, water must be directed out and over the layers below. Head flashing goes above the top flange and laps over the jamb flashing, which in turn laps over the sill pan. Placing it behind the barrier or omitting it lets water get behind the window.

Question 40Replacement installation

When replacing a window, the installer finds the rough opening is 1/4 inch narrower than the ordered unit at mid-height but correct at the corners. What is the most appropriate first step?

  1. Investigate and correct the obstruction or bow in the framing rather than forcing the unit into the opening Correct answer.
  2. Force the unit in and rely on fasteners to pull the opening to width
  3. Trim the window frame flanges to fit the narrow point
  4. Return the unit and reorder it 1/2 inch smaller

Explanation

A localized narrowing usually indicates a bowed stud, protruding fastener, or debris that should be corrected before installation. Forcing the unit racks the frame and stresses the glass and hardware. Trimming the product or reordering smaller treats a symptom rather than the cause.

Question 41Replacement installation

What is the purpose of shimming a replacement window at the jamb locations specified by the manufacturer?

  1. To create a gap for air circulation behind the frame
  2. To hold the frame straight and square and to transfer loads to the framing at designed points Correct answer.
  3. To lift the window off the sill pan
  4. To provide a surface for caulk adhesion

Explanation

Shims are placed at designated points so the frame stays straight and square and loads transfer to the structure rather than to the frame itself. Proper shimming keeps the sash operating and the weatherstrip in contact. Shims are not for ventilation, lifting off the pan, or improving caulk adhesion.

Question 42Replacement installation

A replacement window is being installed with a nailing fin in a wall with housewrap. How should the housewrap be treated at the opening before the window is set?

  1. Slit the housewrap vertically at the center of the opening only
  2. Cut the housewrap in a modified Y pattern and fold the flaps back, then integrate the window flashing with the wrap Correct answer.
  3. Cut the housewrap out completely around the opening and discard it
  4. Leave the housewrap intact and set the window on top of it

Explanation

Cutting a Y pattern and folding the flaps lets the window flashing tie into the weather barrier above and below. The upper flap laps over the head flashing, and the lower flap sheds over the sill flashing. Removing the wrap or setting the window on top of it breaks the drainage plane.

Question 43Replacement installation

What is the correct sequence for finishing the perimeter of a replacement window after installation?

  1. Install interior trim first, then flash the exterior
  2. Caulk the exterior, then check operation, then flash
  3. Install exterior cladding, then check operation, then seal the interior
  4. Complete flashing and air sealing, verify operation, then install interior trim and exterior cladding Correct answer.

Explanation

Water and air control layers must be completed before trim and cladding close off access. Operation is verified while the frame is still accessible for adjustment. Interior trim and exterior cladding are finishing steps that follow a verified, sealed installation.

Question 44Replacement installation

A replacement unit is being installed where the existing opening is square and plumb, but the exterior wall surface is out of plane by 3/8 inch across the opening. What is the best approach?

  1. Set the unit plumb and square in the opening and accommodate the wall irregularity with flashing and trim details Correct answer.
  2. Push the unit until the flange contacts the wall at every point
  3. Reject the opening and require the wall be re-sided
  4. Tilt the unit to match the wall plane so the exterior trim sits flush

Explanation

The window's operating geometry depends on the unit being plumb and square, not on the wall's surface plane. Wall irregularity is absorbed by flashing and trim details that maintain the drainage plane. Tilting or forcing the unit to meet the wall racks the frame and compromises seals.

Question 45Replacement installation

A replacement window with a factory-applied sill pan is being set on an existing sloped sill. What must be verified to keep the sill drain working?

  1. That the weep openings and pan outlet remain clear and slope toward the exterior Correct answer.
  2. That the pan outlet is sealed shut to prevent air leakage
  3. That the interior side of the pan is the lowest point
  4. That the sill is perfectly flat for the pan to bond

Explanation

Sill drainage depends on clear weep paths and a continuous slope to the exterior. Sealant or debris blocking the outlets traps water in the sill. The interior side must be the high point, not the low point, so water always moves outward.

Question 46Replacement installation

During a replacement installation, the installer notices the existing rough framing has a doubled stud that protrudes 1/4 inch past the plane of the adjacent framing at the jamb. What is the best course of action?

  1. Cut the window jamb to fit around the protruding stud
  2. Plane or shim the framing so the window frame lands on a consistent plane, then verify plumb and square Correct answer.
  3. Ignore the protrusion because the fasteners will pull the frame flat
  4. Install the window and cover the resulting gap with caulk only

Explanation

The window frame must land on a consistent plane so it is not locally distorted. Correcting the framing plane, then rechecking plumb and square, keeps the unit straight and the sash operating. Pulling the frame flat with fasteners or notching the jamb damages the product and stresses the glass.

Question 47Replacement installation

An installer is replacing a window in a wall with an exterior insulated finish system. Which detail is most critical to preserve the drainage plane around the new unit?

  1. Embed the window flange directly in the base coat with no backwrap
  2. Backwrap the system edges at the opening and integrate flashing so water sheds onto the face of the finish Correct answer.
  3. Cut the system back to the sheathing and leave the edge exposed
  4. Seal the system edge to the window frame with a single bead of caulk and no flashing

Explanation

Backwrapping turns the system edge back to the substrate so flashing can lap onto it and water sheds to the exterior face. Without backwrap, water can enter behind the finish at the opening. Embedding the flange in base coat or leaving the edge exposed breaks the drainage path.

Question 48Replacement installation

A pocket replacement is installed and the sash operates freely, but a draft is felt at the meeting rail. Which installation-related cause should be investigated first?

  1. The exterior caulk joint is too wide
  2. The siding is not nailed tightly enough
  3. The glass seal has failed in the new unit
  4. The frame may be slightly twisted, preventing the sashes from seating against the weatherstrip Correct answer.

Explanation

Even a small twist in the frame can keep the sashes from seating fully against the meeting-rail weatherstrip, producing a draft while the sash still slides. Checking frame square and shim contact is the first step. Glass seal failure, caulk width, and siding nailing do not explain a localized meeting-rail draft.

Question 49Replacement installation

When replacing a window in an opening with an existing sloped sill and no sill pan, what is the minimum acceptable water-management detail at the sill?

  1. Set the window on the sloped sill and caulk the exterior joint only
  2. Install a sloped sill pan with back dam and end dams, lapped into the jamb flashing, before setting the unit Correct answer.
  3. Apply a heavy bead of sealant along the sill and set the window directly on it
  4. Place a strip of housewrap on the sill and set the window on it

Explanation

The sill is the primary water-collection point, so it needs a pan that slopes out, has a back dam and end dams, and laps into the jamb flashing. Sealant alone cracks and bonds poorly, and housewrap is not a pan. A pan provides a continuous, lapped surface that directs water to the exterior.

Question 50Replacement installation

A replacement window is ordered and the installer discovers the existing opening is out of square by 1/2 inch, with the diagonals unequal. Which installation approach best preserves the unit's operation?

  1. Install the unit and adjust the sash hinges to compensate for the rack
  2. Match the frame to the out-of-square opening so the gaps are even
  3. Set the unit square and plumb within the opening, shimming the frame so the sash operates, and detail the remaining gaps with flashing and trim Correct answer.
  4. Force the frame into the opening and rely on the fasteners to hold it square

Explanation

The unit must be installed square and plumb regardless of the opening's shape; shims hold it there while flashing and trim close the irregular gaps. Matching the opening or forcing the frame racks it, causing binding and seal gaps. Adjusting hinges does not correct a racked frame.