BM Coiffure cheat sheet

Disinfection kills most pathogenic organisms on non-porous implements but does not necessarily kill bacterial spores; sterilization is required for spore destruction.

An EPA-registered hospital-strength disinfectant must be used at the label dilution and contact time; implements must be fully immersed after cleaning.

Porous items (nail files, wooden sticks, cotton) cannot be reliably disinfected and must be discarded after single use.

Blood and body-fluid spills are handled with gloves and an EPA-registered tuberculocidal disinfectant; contaminated waste goes in a sealed bag.

Hand washing with soap and warm running water for at least 20 seconds is required before and after each client; alcohol rubs do not remove soil.

Universal precautions treat all blood and body fluids as infectious regardless of known client status.

Electrical equipment near water requires GFCI protection; cords must be inspected for fraying before use.

A salon must keep a current Material Safety Data Sheet (SDS) for every chemical product on site.

Implements must be cleaned (soap and water) before disinfection because organic soil inactivates many disinfectants.

Porosity describes the hair's ability to absorb moisture: low porosity resists absorption, high porosity absorbs fast but loses moisture quickly.

Elasticity is tested by stretching a wet strand; healthy hair stretches roughly 50% of its length and returns without breaking.

Density (thin to thick) is separate from texture (fine, medium, coarse); both must be recorded on the client record card.

The hair growth pattern, whorls, and cowlicks are noted during consultation because they dictate cut direction and styling limits.

A patch test is required 24-48 hours before first application of an oxidative dye or lightener for clients with no prior history.

Scalp condition screening: redness, lesions, abrasions, or flaking contraindicate chemical services and require referral.

Client records should capture prior chemical history (relaxers, bleaches, henna, metallic salts) because these affect service compatibility.

Water temperature for shampooing is typically 37-40°C (98-105°F); hotter water strips color and stimulates oil production.

Shampoo is applied to the scalp and worked outward; the scalp, not the hair length, is the primary cleansing target.

Surfactants in shampoo work by lowering surface tension so oil and soil lift into water for rinsing.

A conditioner or acid rinse follows shampoo to restore pH and close the cuticle after alkaline shampoo.

Clients with scalp abrasions, recent chemical burns, or active infection should not receive vigorous scalp massage.

Massage movements include effleurage (light gliding), petrissage (kneading), and tapotement (tapping); direction follows the scalp's blood flow toward the neck.

Hard water contains calcium and magnesium that reduce lather and can leave mineral film; a clarifying or chelating shampoo addresses buildup.

A 0° elevation cut produces a solid form (blunt line) with weight at the perimeter; 90° produces uniform layers; 180° produces long layers with movement.

The guide (section) determines length; a stationary guide keeps length constant, a traveling guide follows the previous cut section.

Cross-checking the cut at perpendicular sections verifies balance and reveals uneven lines before finishing.

Blunt cutting creates a strong weight line; point cutting and slide cutting remove weight and soften the perimeter.

The apex is the highest point of the head; the parietal ridge is the widest curve and is the reference for balance in most cuts.

Clipping shears are used on dry hair only; cutting wet with clippers can pull and damage the cuticle.

Over-direction (combing hair outside its natural fall) builds graduation and volume in the crown and sides.

The law of color: primary colors are red, yellow, and blue; secondary colors are orange (red+yellow), green (blue+yellow), and violet (red+blue).

Complementary colors neutralize: blue cancels orange, green cancels red, violet cancels yellow.

Levels run 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde); the underlying pigment exposed at each level follows yellow, gold, orange, red-orange, red, and dark red patterns.

Oxidative (permanent) color lifts and deposits; semi-permanent deposits only; temporary coats the cuticle.

Developer volumes: 10 vol (3%) deposits, 20 vol (6%) lifts 1-2 levels, 30 vol (9%) lifts 2-3 levels, 40 vol (12%) lifts 3-4 levels.

Lightener (bleach) lifts natural pigment and cannot deposit color; toners are applied afterward to correct the exposed undertone.

Metallic salts and henna can react violently with peroxide developers; a strand test and history check are mandatory before application.

Perm chemistry: the reducing agent (ammonium thioglycolate) breaks disulfide bonds; the neutralizer (hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate) rebuilds them in the new shape.

Perm lotion pH is typically 8.5-9.5; the neutralizer is acidic (around pH 3-4) to close the cuticle.

Rod size determines curl size: smaller rods produce tighter curls; larger rods produce looser waves.

Processing time depends on hair porosity, prior chemical history, and product strength, not on a fixed clock.

A test curl is taken during processing to confirm the S-pattern forms before rinsing.

Relaxers (sodium hydroxide, pH ~12-14; guanidine, pH ~9-11) straighten by breaking disulfide bonds; no-lye relaxers use guanidine and require careful mixing.

A relaxer retouch applies product to new growth only; overlapping previously relaxed hair risks breakage and scalp burns.

Neutralizing shampoo after a relaxer restores pH and removes residue; the hair must be thoroughly rinsed before styling.

Protein (keratin) treatments fill gaps in the cuticle and strengthen; they are indicated for over-processed, porous hair.

Moisture (humectant) treatments attract and retain water; they are indicated for dry, brittle hair with normal elasticity.

Overuse of protein causes stiffness and breakage; overuse of moisture causes mushy, limp hair - balance is required.

Scalp treatments for dandruff use antifungal/keratolytic agents (e.g., zinc pyrithione, salicylic acid) and require a patch test.

Hot oil treatments are applied to the scalp and hair, covered, and processed with heat to improve penetration.

A scalp massage increases circulation and is contraindicated over inflamed, broken, or infected skin.

A service ticket should record client name, date, service performed, products used, formula, and technician initials.

Informed consent and a signed release are required before chemical services, especially for clients with prior reactions.

Confidentiality: client records and health information are not shared with third parties without consent.

Pricing must cover product cost, labor, overhead, and profit margin; a service priced below cost loses money on every client.

The salon must maintain a current license, insurance, and posted health-department permits.

Professional boundaries: no diagnosis of medical conditions, no treatment beyond scope of practice, and referral to a physician when indicated.

Inventory control uses par levels and first-in-first-out rotation to avoid expired chemical products.

The hair shaft has three layers: cuticle (protective outer), cortex (bulk and pigment), and medulla (central core, sometimes absent).

The pH scale runs 0-14; hair and skin are acidic (pH ~4.5-5.5), and alkaline products swell the cuticle.

Disulfide, hydrogen, and salt bonds hold hair shape; disulfide bonds are broken by perms and relaxers and reformed by neutralizers.

Surfactants have a hydrophilic head and lipophilic tail; they lift oil and soil into water for rinsing.

Humectants (glycerin, propylene glycol) attract water; emollients (oils, silicones) smooth and seal the cuticle.

Silicones and polymers coat the cuticle for shine and slip; they do not repair the hair and can build up with repeated use.

Preservatives prevent microbial growth in water-based products; products must be used and stored per label instructions.

Strand test: apply the intended chemical to a small section to predict timing and result before full application.

Test for elasticity on wet hair; a strand that stretches and does not return is over-processed and should not receive more chemicals.

Texture is measured by the diameter of the strand (fine, medium, coarse); density is the number of hairs per square inch.

Growth pattern (cowlick, whorl, nape hair direction) determines cut sectioning and where weight must be removed.

A 24-48 hour patch test on the inner forearm or behind the ear screens for allergic reaction to oxidative dyes.

Shampoo pH is typically 4.5-6.5 for color-treated hair; alkaline shampoos open the cuticle and fade color faster.

Rinse water temperature should be lukewarm; a cool final rinse helps close the cuticle and add shine.

Shampoo should be diluted and emulsified in the hands before application to the scalp.

Scalp massage is contraindicated with abrasions, recent chemical burns, or active infection.

Elevation of 0° = solid form; 45° = graduated; 90° = uniform layers; 180° = long layers.

A stationary guide holds length constant; a traveling guide moves with each section and shortens progressively.

Cross-check perpendicular sections to verify the cut is balanced before finishing.

Blunt cutting builds a weight line; point cutting and slide cutting remove weight and soften the ends.

Clippers are used on dry hair only; wet cutting with clippers can pull and damage the cuticle.

Levels run 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde); underlying pigment at each level follows yellow, gold, orange, red-orange, red, dark red.

Complementary colors neutralize: blue cancels orange, green cancels red, violet cancels yellow.

Developer volumes: 10 vol deposits, 20 vol lifts 1-2 levels, 30 vol lifts 2-3 levels, 40 vol lifts 3-4 levels.

Metallic salts and henna can react violently with peroxide; a strand test and history check are mandatory before application.

Lightener lifts natural pigment and cannot deposit color; a toner corrects the exposed undertone afterward.

Perm lotion (reducing agent, pH ~8.5-9.5) breaks disulfide bonds; neutralizer (acidic, pH ~3-4) rebuilds them.

Rod size determines curl size; smaller rods produce tighter curls, larger rods looser waves.

A test curl confirms the S-pattern forms before rinsing.

Relaxers (sodium hydroxide pH ~12-14; guanidine pH ~9-11) straighten by breaking disulfide bonds.

A relaxer retouch applies product to new growth only; overlapping relaxed hair risks breakage and scalp burns.

Protein (keratin) treatments fill cuticle gaps and strengthen over-processed, porous hair.

Moisture (humectant) treatments attract and retain water for dry, brittle hair with normal elasticity.

Overuse of protein causes stiffness and breakage; overuse of moisture causes mushy, limp hair.

Scalp treatments for dandruff use antifungal/keratolytic agents and require a patch test.

Scalp massage is contraindicated over inflamed, broken, or infected skin.

A service ticket records client name, date, service, products, formula, and technician initials.

Informed consent and a signed release are required before chemical services.

Client records and health information are confidential and not shared without consent.

Pricing must cover product cost, labor, overhead, and profit; a service priced below cost loses money.

Professional scope: no medical diagnosis, no treatment beyond scope, and referral to a physician when indicated.

Hair shaft layers: cuticle (protective outer), cortex (bulk and pigment), medulla (central core, sometimes absent).

pH scale 0-14; hair and skin are acidic (~4.5-5.5); alkaline products swell the cuticle.

Disulfide, hydrogen, and salt bonds hold hair shape; disulfide bonds are broken by perms and relaxers.

Surfactants have a hydrophilic head and lipophilic tail that lift oil and soil into water.

Humectants attract water; emollients smooth and seal the cuticle; silicones coat but do not repair.

Disinfection kills most pathogens on non-porous implements; sterilization is required to destroy bacterial spores.

An EPA-registered hospital-strength disinfectant must be used at label dilution and contact time after cleaning.

Porous items (files, wooden sticks, cotton) cannot be reliably disinfected and must be discarded after single use.

Hand washing with soap and warm running water for at least 20 seconds is required before and after each client.

A current SDS must be kept on site for every chemical product.