BM Coiffure flashcards
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32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.
- Disinfection vs sterilization
- Disinfection kills most pathogenic organisms on non-porous surfaces; sterilization destroys all microbial life including bacterial spores and is required for spore-level control.
- Universal precautions
- A safety practice treating all blood and body fluids as potentially infectious regardless of the client's known health status, requiring gloves and barrier protection.
- Porosity
- The hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture. Low porosity resists absorption; high porosity absorbs quickly but loses moisture rapidly and needs gentler chemical services.
- Elasticity
- The hair's ability to stretch and return to its original length. Healthy wet hair stretches about 50% and returns; poor elasticity signals over-processing and contraindicates further chemicals.
- Patch test
- A small application of a chemical product on the inner forearm or behind the ear, observed for 24-48 hours before full service to screen for allergic reaction.
- Strand test
- Applying the intended chemical to a small section of hair to predict processing time, lift, and result before committing the whole head to the service.
- Density versus texture
- Density is the number of hairs per square inch; texture is the diameter of an individual strand (fine, medium, coarse). They are separate measurements recorded on the client card.
- Shampoo surfactant action
- Surfactants have a water-loving head and an oil-loving tail; they lower surface tension so oil and soil lift into water and rinse away from the scalp.
- Shampoo water temperature
- Lukewarm water around 37-40°C (98-105°F) is used; hotter water strips color, irritates the scalp, and stimulates oil production.
- Hard water effect
- Calcium and magnesium in hard water reduce lather and leave mineral film on hair; a clarifying or chelating shampoo removes the buildup.
- Scalp massage contraindications
- Vigorous scalp massage is avoided with abrasions, recent chemical burns, active infection, or inflammation because it can spread irritation and worsen tissue damage.
- Elevation and cut form
- Elevation of 0° produces a solid form with perimeter weight; 45° produces graduation; 90° produces uniform layers; 180° produces long layers with movement.
- Stationary versus traveling guide
- A stationary guide holds length constant across sections; a traveling guide moves with each cut section and progressively shortens the hair.
- Cross-checking a cut
- Cutting perpendicular sections after the main cut to verify balance and reveal uneven lines before finishing the style.
- Point cutting
- A cutting technique using the tips of the shears to remove weight and soften the perimeter while keeping the overall length.
- Law of color
- Primary colors are red, yellow, and blue; secondary colors are orange, green, and violet; complementary colors neutralize each other (blue cancels orange, green cancels red, violet cancels yellow).
- Hair color levels
- Levels run 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde); the underlying pigment exposed at each level follows yellow, gold, orange, red-orange, red, and dark red patterns.
- Developer volumes
- 10 volume deposits only, 20 volume lifts 1-2 levels, 30 volume lifts 2-3 levels, and 40 volume lifts 3-4 levels when used with permanent color.
- Lightener versus toner
- Lightener (bleach) lifts natural pigment and cannot deposit color; a toner is applied afterward to correct the exposed undertone and refine the result.
- Metallic salt reaction
- Henna and metallic salt products can react violently with peroxide developers, causing heat, damage, or unpredictable color; a strand test and history check are mandatory.
- Perm chemistry
- The reducing agent (ammonium thioglycolate) breaks disulfide bonds; the neutralizer (hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate) rebuilds them in the new shape.
- Rod size and curl
- Rod size determines curl size: smaller rods produce tighter curls, larger rods produce looser waves; rod diameter and hair length both affect the result.
- Test curl
- A section taken during processing to confirm the S-pattern has formed before the perm is rinsed and neutralized.
- Relaxer retouch
- A relaxer application to new growth only; overlapping previously relaxed hair risks breakage, scalp burns, and uneven straightening.
- Protein versus moisture treatment
- Protein (keratin) treatments fill cuticle gaps and strengthen over-processed hair; moisture treatments attract and retain water for dry, brittle hair with normal elasticity.
- Over-proteinized hair
- Hair that has received too much protein becomes stiff and brittle and breaks; it needs moisture and gentle handling rather than more protein.
- Hot oil treatment
- A treatment applied to scalp and hair, covered, and processed with heat to improve penetration and soften dry hair and scalp.
- Service ticket
- A record of client name, date, service performed, products used, formula, and technician initials, kept for tracking and liability purposes.
- Informed consent
- A signed release obtained before chemical services confirming the client understands the procedure, risks, and aftercare, especially after a prior reaction.
- Scope of practice
- The legal limits of a cosmetologist's work: no medical diagnosis and no treatment beyond licensed services; suspected medical conditions are referred to a physician.
- Hair shaft layers
- The cuticle is the protective outer layer, the cortex is the bulk containing pigment, and the medulla is the central core that may be absent in fine hair.
- pH of hair and skin
- Hair and skin are acidic at roughly pH 4.5-5.5; alkaline products swell the cuticle while acidic products close it and add shine.