Assam ASSEB HS Apparel Made-Ups & Home Furnishing key terms

A natural fibre of short, measurable length, such as cotton, wool or jute, which must be twisted together with many similar fibres to form a continuous yarn.

A fibre of indefinite, very long length, either produced naturally by a silkworm or extruded through spinnerets in a factory, needing little or no twisting to form yarn.

The manufacturing process in which a fibre-forming polymer is melted or dissolved and forced through fine holes of a spinneret to create continuous man-made filaments.

A small metal plate or nozzle pierced with many fine holes through which polymer solution or melt is pushed to form man-made filaments during extrusion.

An opening and cleaning operation that separates clumps of staple fibres into a loose web, removes impurities and aligns the fibres roughly parallel before further processing.

A fibre-preparation process that removes short fibres and remaining impurities and straightens long fibres into a parallel arrangement, producing smoother, stronger and more lustrous yarns.

The set of operations that draws out and twists prepared fibres into a continuous yarn; the same word also describes the extrusion of man-made filament yarns.

The spiral turns inserted into a yarn by rotating the fibres or filaments around the yarn axis; more twist gives greater strength and a firmer hand but reduces softness and lustre.

A number expressing yarn thickness, either as mass per unit length in tex or denier, or as length per unit mass in the cotton and worsted indirect numbering systems.

A direct yarn numbering system giving the mass in grams of one thousand metres of yarn, so a thicker yarn carries a higher tex value.

A direct numbering unit for filament yarns and silk, equal to the mass in grams of nine thousand metres of yarn; lower denier indicates finer filaments.

The two thread systems of woven fabric: warp yarns run lengthwise and are held under tension on the loom, while weft yarns run crosswise and are inserted over and under them.

The simplest interlacing in which each warp thread passes alternately over and under each weft thread, giving a firm, flat, durable fabric such as calico or poplin.

A weave producing diagonal lines on the fabric surface because warp and weft interlace in a stepped progression, as in denim and gabardine; it drapes well and resists soiling.

A weave in which warp threads float over several weft threads before interlacing, creating a smooth, lustrous face with high drape but lower abrasion resistance.

The tightly woven, self-finished edge running along both sides of a woven fabric that prevents the warp yarns from unravelling during handling and garment making.

The direction of the warp threads in a woven fabric, marked on pattern pieces to show how they must be placed on the cloth so the garment hangs correctly.

The diagonal direction of a woven fabric at forty-five degrees to the warp and weft; bias-cut strips stretch and curve, making them suitable for binding and piping.

A fabric construction method in which a single yarn is formed into interlocking loops; knitted cloth stretches more than woven cloth and is used for T-shirts and hosiery.

Fabric made directly from a web of fibres bonded by heat, chemicals or needle punching rather than by weaving or knitting, used in interfacings and disposable products.

A finishing treatment that holds cotton under tension in caustic soda, swelling the fibres to increase lustre, strength and dye uptake and to improve dimensional stability.

A mechanical finishing process that passes fabric between heated rollers to flatten the surface, giving a smooth, glossy appearance and controlling thickness.

A controlled compressive shrinking finish applied mainly to cotton fabrics that reduces residual shrinkage so garments keep their size after repeated washing.

The technique of drawing full-size garment pattern pieces from body measurements and a basic block, adding ease and seam allowances to build the final shape.

A simple, close-fitting master pattern for a bodice, sleeve or skirt, made without design features, from which many styled patterns are developed.

A trial garment made in inexpensive fabric from a new pattern to test fit and design before cutting the final cloth.

The narrow strip of fabric between the stitching line and the raw edge of a pattern piece, kept for joining pieces and usually trimmed after sewing.

The process of systematically increasing or decreasing a base pattern to produce a range of sizes while keeping proportions and fit consistent across the size set.

A long sheet of paper on which pattern pieces are arranged in the most economical way for cutting many layers of fabric, minimising wastage.

The production section where fabric is spread in layers and cut into garment components according to the marker, before bundles pass to sewing lines.

The number of stitches per unit length of a seam, commonly stitches per inch; too few weaken the seam, too many damage the fabric and reduce stretch.

A statistical quality-control method in which a specified number of garments are inspected from a lot and accepted or rejected against an agreed acceptable quality level.

A fabric inspection method that assigns one to four penalty points to defects according to their length or size, allowing a numerical quality score for a roll.

The manner in which a fabric hangs and folds under its own weight; stiff fabrics form crisp shapes while limp fabrics fall into soft, fluid folds.

The tactile feel of a fabric as judged by touch, covering qualities such as softness, smoothness, stiffness and warmth, and used to judge suitability for an end use.

The finished top edge of a curtain, shaped as pencil pleats, pinch pleats, eyelets or tab tops, which determines the fullness and style of the hanging.

The distance after which a printed or woven design begins again on the cloth; matching repeats across seams is essential in curtains and upholstery.

A single recurring design element or unit, such as a flower or geometric shape, that is arranged and repeated to build a textile pattern.

A technique in which wax, paste or binding prevents dye from reaching selected areas of the cloth, producing patterns such as batik and bandhani.

A hand process in which carved wooden or metal blocks are inked with dye paste and pressed repeatedly onto fabric to build a patterned design.

A printing method in which dye paste is forced through open areas of a fine mesh screen onto the fabric, one screen being used for each colour.

The resistance of a dyed or printed textile to fading or bleeding when exposed to washing, rubbing, light or perspiration during normal use.

A permanently attached label giving instructions for washing, bleaching, drying, ironing and dry cleaning a garment so the consumer can maintain it correctly.

The reduction in fabric dimensions after washing or wetting, caused by relaxation of built-in tension and fibre swelling; it is controlled by pre-shrinking finishes.

The ability to track a textile product and its raw materials through every stage of production, from fibre to finished garment, supporting ethical and environmental claims.

A production and consumption model that keeps materials in use through reuse, repair, recycling and upcycling, reducing waste instead of following a take-make-dispose pattern.

Converting waste fabric or discarded garments into new products of equal or higher value, such as making bags or cushion covers from old clothing.

The sales volume at which total revenue equals total cost, so the business makes neither profit nor loss and any further sales generate profit.

A statement that itemises material, labour and overhead costs of a product to calculate its total cost and guide pricing decisions.

The money available for day-to-day running of a business, calculated as current assets minus current liabilities, needed to buy materials and pay wages.