Pattern Making and Garment Construction
This domain covers body measurement, pattern drafting, fitting and garment assembly. The exam tests whether you can convert measurements into pattern dimensions, place seam allowances correctly, respect grainline and use construction details in the right sequence.
Core rules
- Take measurements over light clothing with a firm tape, keeping it level. Record body measurements and decide ease: wearing ease for movement and design ease for style.
- A block is a basic fitting pattern from which styles are developed. A toile or muslin is a test garment used to check fit before cutting final fabric.
- Seam allowance is added outside the stitching line. It is not the same as ease and must not be added at a cut-on-fold edge.
- Grainline follows the warp direction, usually parallel to the centre front or centre back. Notches match seam edges; darts shape fabric to the body.
- Construction order generally follows preparation, darts, seams, closures, collars/waistbands, hems and pressing.
Worked example
A bodice has a body bust of 88 cm. Add 6 cm wearing ease and 2 cm design ease, giving a garment bust of 96 cm. The half-front pattern from centre front to side seam is one quarter of 96 cm = 24 cm. Add 1.5 cm seam allowance at the side seam only; the centre front is placed on a fold, so no seam allowance is added there. Cut width = 24 + 1.5 = 25.5 cm. Reasoning: ease is included in the garment measurement before dividing; seam allowance is added only at cut edges.
Traps that cost marks
Forgetting ease produces a garment that cannot be worn comfortably. Adding seam allowance at a fold doubles fabric at the centre. Ignoring grainline causes twisting and poor drape. Mismatching notches shifts seams. Do not press darts flat before shaping them over a pressing ham.
Key idea
Accurate measurement, correct ease and controlled seam allowance turn a draft into a garment that fits.