Assam ASSEB HSLC Garment Designing flashcards
Assam ASSEB HSLC Garment Designing · Build recall with a focused review session.
32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.
- Structural design
- The branch of garment design dealing with the shape, cut and construction of a garment - silhouette, seams, darts and closures - as distinct from applied decoration.
- Tech pack
- A specification document giving measurements, fabric and trims, construction details, colourways and tolerances; it guides sampling and bulk production and acts as the design-production contract.
- Seam gauge
- A small metal ruler with a sliding marker used to measure and mark short repeated widths, such as hems, tucks, pleats and buttonhole spacing.
- Bent-handled shears
- Dressmaking cutting tool whose angled handle lets the lower blade stay flat on the table while the fabric is cut, giving accurate, lifted-free cutting lines.
- Pressing versus ironing
- Ironing slides the iron across the fabric; pressing lifts and lowers it in place. Pressing with a cloth prevents shine and distortion on wool and synthetics.
- Tex and denier
- Direct yarn count systems expressing weight per fixed length; a higher tex or denier number means a coarser, heavier yarn.
- Twill weave
- A weave with a diagonal effect made by passing the weft over two or more warp threads; it drapes well and is used for denim and gabardine.
- Burning test for silk
- Silk burns slowly with a hair-like smell and leaves a crushable black bead; this distinguishes it from polyester, which melts into a hard bead.
- Ease
- The difference between a garment measurement and the corresponding body measurement; it covers movement (fitting ease) and the intended silhouette (design ease).
- Hip measurement
- Body measurement taken around the fullest part of the hips, usually about 18 to 23 centimetres below the natural waistline, used for skirts and trousers.
- Nape to waist
- Vertical measurement from the prominent bone at the back of the neck down to the natural waistline; it sets the centre back length of a bodice block.
- Dart point rule
- A dart is stitched from its wide end toward, but never past, the point, which is positioned at the fullest part of the body such as the bust point.
- Grading
- Systematically increasing or decreasing a fitted pattern through a size range using fixed increments at each landmark, while keeping the base size unchanged.
- Seam allowance
- Extra width added outside the stitching line to allow joining and finishing; commonly 1 cm on straight seams, 1.5 cm on curves and 4 to 5 cm on hems.
- Bias grain
- The direction at 45 degrees to the warp and weft; it has the greatest stretch and drape, so bias-cut pieces hang softly and need careful handling.
- One-way layout
- A fabric layout in which all pattern pieces face the same direction, required for napped fabrics such as corduroy and velvet and for one-way prints.
- French seam
- A seam that encloses its raw edges inside a double stitched fold; it is neat and strong, suited to lightweight and sheer fabrics.
- Flat-fell seam
- A strong seam in which one raw edge is folded over the other and stitched twice, leaving no raw edges visible; used on jeans and shirts.
- Balanced tension
- Correct machine tension shows equal thread loops on both sides of the seam; loops appearing underneath indicate the upper tension is too loose.
- Asymmetrical balance
- Informal balance where unequal elements on either side of an axis are weighted to look stable, for example a single shoulder trim or off-centre drape.
- Golden-mean proportion
- A division of a length in roughly 3 to 5 parts, used as a guide for placing jacket length, yokes and borders so the garment looks harmonious.
- Value in colour
- The lightness or darkness of a colour; tints are made by adding white, shades by adding black, and tones by adding grey.
- Complementary scheme
- A colour scheme using two hues opposite each other on the colour wheel, producing strong contrast and lively effect when used in the right proportion.
- Muga silk
- Assam's golden wild silk from Antheraea assamensis, prized for its natural colour and durability; it is a Geographical Indication product of the state.
- Eri silk
- A non-violent silk from Samia ricini, spun after the moth leaves the cocoon; it is warm, soft and wool-like and is widely woven in Assam.
- Mekhela chador
- The traditional two-piece Assamese woman's dress of a lower drape (mekhela) and an upper drape (chador), often worn with a riha.
- Gamosa
- A white Assamese cotton cloth with a red border and woven motifs, used as a towel, waist cloth and symbol of respect and greeting.
- Care label symbols
- Standard pictograms on garment labels for washing, bleaching, drying, ironing and dry cleaning; dots indicate temperature and a cross means do not.
- AQL inspection
- Acceptable quality level sampling used in final inspection: a lot passes when the number of defects found in the sample is within the agreed limit.
- Break-even quantity
- The output at which total revenue equals total cost, calculated as fixed cost divided by selling price minus variable cost per unit.
- Shade variation defect
- A quality defect where panels of the same garment differ in colour, usually from cutting pieces from different fabric rolls or dye lots.
- Croquis
- A quick fashion sketch of a stylised figure used to develop garment ideas before technical flats and patterns are made.