Assam ASSEB HSLC Garment Designing key terms

Any article of clothing made by joining cut fabric pieces together by stitching. In this syllabus it usually means a stitched wearable item such as a shirt, kurta, blouse or trouser.

Clothing produced in standard sizes in factories or workshops and sold off the shelf, rather than stitched to one customer's individual measurements by a tailor.

A small dressmaking or fashion unit that designs and stitches limited quantities of garments, often to individual order, with close attention to finish and detailing.

A body measurement taken with a tape on a live person, such as bust, waist, hip or sleeve length, used as the starting point for drafting a pattern.

The extra allowance added to body measurements so the wearer can move, breathe and sit comfortably. It may be fitting ease (movement) or design ease (styling fullness).

A table listing standard body measurements for each garment size, used by manufacturers and home stitchers to select the correct pattern size for a wearer.

The process of systematically increasing or decreasing a master pattern in set steps to produce the full range of sizes while keeping the design proportions and fit consistent.

A paper or card template of each garment piece, including seam allowances and construction marks, from which fabric is cut and the garment assembled.

Drawing a pattern to actual size on paper from body measurements using a set of construction steps, rules and calculations rather than by draping fabric on a form.

A plain, inexpensive cotton cloth used to make a trial garment (toile) so that the fit and design of a pattern can be checked and corrected before cutting the final fabric.

The narrow strip of fabric left beyond the stitching line on a pattern and trimmed or pressed later, allowing the pieces to be joined without fraying or pulling apart.

A long arrow marked on a pattern piece showing how it must be placed on the fabric, usually parallel to the lengthwise (warp) threads, so the garment hangs correctly.

The planned arrangement of pattern pieces on the cloth before cutting, chosen to save fabric, respect grain lines and nap, and place any design repeats or motifs correctly.

In industrial cutting, the long sheet of paper on which all pattern pieces for every size in a lay are traced in the most economical arrangement to minimise fabric waste.

A stack of fabric plies spread smoothly on a cutting table to a specified depth, from which many identical garment parts are cut at once with a cutting machine.

The raised, directional surface fibres of fabrics such as velvet, corduroy or flannel. All pattern pieces must be laid in one direction so the shade looks even.

The firmly woven, non-fraying edge running along both sides of a length of fabric, finished during weaving and normally excluded from the garment layout.

The set of yarns running lengthwise in a woven fabric, stretched on the loom before weaving. They are stronger and less stretchy than the crosswise yarns.

The yarns carried across the width of a woven fabric by the shuttle, interlacing with the lengthwise warp. Also called the filling or pick.

The diagonal direction of a woven fabric, at about 45 degrees to the warp and weft. Bias-cut strips stretch and curve well, making them ideal for binding edges.

A narrow strip of fabric cut on the bias and folded, used to enclose raw edges or finish necklines and armholes neatly, especially on curved seams.

A fibre obtained from plants, animals or minerals, such as cotton, jute, silk and wool, rather than manufactured from chemicals. It is usually biodegradable and absorbent.

A fibre made chemically from polymers, such as polyester, nylon or acrylic. It is strong and quick-drying but less absorbent and may pill or melt near heat.

A fabric made by spinning two or more different fibres together, such as polyester-cotton, to combine the good qualities of each and reduce their weaknesses.

A soft natural cellulose fibre from the bolls of the cotton plant. It is absorbent, cool, washable and takes dye well, but creases easily and shrinks unless pre-shrunk.

A fine, lustrous natural protein fibre reeled from the cocoon of the silkworm. It is strong, smooth and drapes beautifully but needs gentle washing and protection from sun.

A golden-yellow wild silk of Assam, produced by the Antheraea assamensis moth. Its natural colour deepens with washing, and it is a prized state textile protected by a geographical indication.

A creamy-white, soft non-violent silk of Assam, spun from open cocoons after the moth has emerged. It is warm, durable and often used for shawls and winter garments.

A glossy white mulberry-type silk woven in Assam, valued for its sheen and strength. It is commonly used for mekhela chador, sarees and ceremonial dress.

The traditional two-piece dress of Assamese women: a cylindrical lower wrap (mekhela) and a long shoulder drape (chador), often woven in silk with patterned borders and end pieces.

A white Assamese cotton towel with red woven borders and motifs, offered as a mark of respect and used on ceremonial occasions. It is a symbol of Assamese culture.

A loom operated by hand or foot without electrical power. Assam has a strong handloom tradition, and handloom cloth is prized for its texture and individual character.

The line of stitching joining two or more pieces of fabric. Seams may be plain, French, lapped or run-and-fell, and the choice affects strength and appearance.

Any treatment of a raw seam edge, such as overcasting, zigzagging, binding or pinking, to prevent fraying and give the inside of the garment a neat look.

A hand or machine stitch worked over a raw edge to stop it fraying, often done with a slanted stitch before the seam is pressed open.

A row of short straight stitches worked just inside the seam line on curved edges such as necklines, to stop the fabric stretching out of shape during construction.

Small snips made into the seam allowance of an inward curve, such as a neckline, so the fabric can spread flat when turned. Care is taken not to cut the stitching.

A wedge-shaped fold stitched into fabric to shape it to the body's curves, for example at the bust, waist or shoulder, tapering to a point at each end.

A flexible marked strip used to take body measurements and check lengths on fabric. It must not stretch, and it is held snug but not tight against the body.

A small block of hard chalk used to mark pattern lines, darts and notches on fabric. It brushes off easily, so marks must be transferred before handling.

A small mark or snip cut at the edge of a pattern and matching fabric piece to show how two pieces should be aligned when stitched together.

Shears with zigzag blades that cut a saw-tooth edge on fabric, used to finish seams on firmly woven cloth and reduce fraying on the inside of a garment.

One of the basic visual ingredients of a garment: line, shape or form, colour, texture and space. Designers combine them to create a desired look.

A guideline for arranging design elements well, including balance, rhythm, proportion, emphasis and harmony, so that a garment looks pleasing and coherent.

A circular chart arranging hues in spectral order, used to identify primary, secondary and tertiary colours and to plan harmonious or contrasting colour schemes.

Decorative stitching worked on the surface of fabric with a needle and thread to add pattern, colour and texture, as in Assamese needlework and Indian traditional textiles.

A surface decoration made by cutting shapes from one fabric and stitching them onto another, often with a buttonhole or satin stitch around the edge.

The technique of stitching small pieces of different fabrics together edge to edge to form a larger cloth, often used to use up scraps and create patterned quilts or garments.

The checks carried out at each stage of production, from fabric inspection to final inspection, to make sure garments meet the required standard before they are sold.

Working out the total expense of making a garment, including fabric, trims, labour, overheads and profit margin, so that a correct selling price can be set.

A person who starts and runs a business, takes financial risk and organises resources such as materials, workers and markets, for example in a small garment unit.

A small label sewn inside a garment giving washing, bleaching, drying and ironing instructions. It helps the wearer maintain the fabric and colour correctly.

The contraction of a fabric when it is wetted or washed, common in cotton and some wool. Fabric is often pre-shrunk or washed before cutting to avoid size loss.