Cutting, Marking and Fabric Layout
This domain deals with preparing fabric, placing pattern pieces efficiently and cutting accurately. The exam tests grainline, fabric faults, marker planning, cutting tools and the meaning of layout terms.
Fabric preparation
Check fabric for flaws, shade variation and width. Straighten the grain by pulling a weft thread or tearing across. Decide whether the fabric needs washing or shrinking before cutting. Identify the right side, nap, pile and pattern direction.
Layout and marking
Place pattern pieces with the grainline parallel to the selvedge. Fold the fabric according to the layout instruction. Use pins or weights, and mark with tailor's chalk, tracing wheel or tailor's tacks. Mark notches, darts, centre lines and pocket positions. Do not use ink that may bleed.
Special fabrics
One-way prints, velvet, corduroy and napped fabrics require a one-way layout so all pieces face the same direction. Checks and stripes need matching at seams. Bias-cut pieces need careful handling because they stretch.
Marker efficiency
Marker efficiency is the percentage of marker area covered by pattern pieces. Higher efficiency reduces fabric waste. It is calculated as total pattern area divided by marker area multiplied by 100.
Worked example
A marker is 6 m long and 1.5 m wide, so area is 9 m2. Ten garments use 0.7 m2 of pattern each, total 7 m2. Efficiency is 7 divided by 9 times 100, about 78 percent. Reasoning: the unused 2 m2 is waste, and a better layout could reduce it.
Traps
Placing the grainline at an angle to the selvedge. Ignoring nap direction. Cutting notches outward instead of inward. Mixing shade lots. Forgetting seam allowance at the fold.
Key points
- Grainline must run parallel to the selvedge.
- Napped and one-way fabrics need a one-way layout.
- Marker efficiency measures fabric utilisation.
- Marking must be removable and must not bleed.
- Straighten the grain before laying out pattern pieces.