Stitching, Seams, Finishes and Garment Assembly
This domain covers stitch types, seam classes, edge finishes and the sequence used to assemble a garment. The exam tests seam selection, seam allowance, stitch properties and assembly logic.
Stitch and seam basics
A stitch is the interlacing of thread; a seam joins two pieces. Common machine stitches include lockstitch (class 300), chainstitch (class 400) and overlock (class 500). A plain seam is the basic joining seam, usually pressed open. A French seam encloses raw edges and suits light fabrics. A flat-fell seam is strong and neat, used on jeans and shirts. A lapped seam overlaps edges and is common in terry and non-woven work.
Finishes
Raw edges may be overlocked, pinked, bound, faced or turned and stitched. Hems may be plain, blind, rolled or faced. Interfacing supports collars, cuffs and plackets. Facings finish necklines and armholes.
Assembly sequence
Typical order: prepare pieces, stitch darts, join shoulders, attach collar or neckline facing, set sleeves, join side seams, attach cuffs, attach pockets, finish hems, press, inspect. The sequence reduces handling and keeps curves stable.
Worked example
A cotton kurti has a front placket and side pockets. The placket is prepared and attached before the side seams so the front panel stays flat. Pockets are attached before joining side seams. Reasoning: attaching details to flat panels is easier and more accurate than working inside a partly closed garment.
Traps
Using a French seam on a thick fabric where it becomes bulky. Forgetting to press seams during assembly. Setting sleeves after side seams when the pattern expects a flat set. Trimming seam allowance too close and causing fraying.
Key points
- Stitch classes include 300 lockstitch and 500 overlock.
- Plain, French, flat-fell and lapped seams suit different fabrics.
- Seam allowance is usually 1 cm, with more for fitting or hems.
- Pressing between steps improves the final finish.
- Assemble details on flat panels before closing seams.