Haryana BSEH Secondary NSQF Apparel Made-Ups and Home Furnishing study materials
Haryana BSEH Secondary NSQF Apparel Made-Ups and Home Furnishing study resources

Haryana BSEH Secondary NSQF Apparel Made-Ups and Home Furnishing key terms

Haryana BSEH Secondary NSQF Apparel Made-Ups and Home Furnishing · Get comfortable with the vocabulary.

Staple fibre

A short natural fibre measured in centimetres, such as cotton, jute or wool, which must be twisted together with many similar fibres to form a yarn.

Related: Filament, Yarn count, Spinning
Filament

A very long continuous fibre strand, natural like silk or man-made like polyester, that can form a yarn with little or no twisting.

Related: Staple fibre, Man-made fibre
Yarn count

A number expressing yarn thickness or fineness, either as weight per fixed length or length per fixed weight, used to select yarn for a fabric.

Related: Warp, Weft, Staple fibre
Warp

The set of parallel lengthwise threads stretched on the loom before weaving begins; they run along the selvedge direction of the fabric.

Related: Weft, Selvedge, Grain
Weft

The crosswise yarn inserted over and under the warp threads during weaving, running from one selvedge to the other.

Related: Warp, Selvedge
Selvedge

The firmly woven narrow edge running along both sides of a woven fabric, formed where the weft turns back, which prevents fraying.

Related: Warp, Weft, Grain
Grain

The direction of yarns in a fabric; lengthwise grain follows the warp, crosswise grain follows the weft, and true bias lies at 45 degrees to both.

Related: Warp, Bias, Selvedge
Bias

A line at 45 degrees to the lengthwise and crosswise grain of a woven fabric; bias-cut strips stretch and are used for binding and piping.

Related: Grain, Binding
GSM

Grams per square metre, the standard measure of fabric weight; a higher value generally means a thicker, heavier fabric.

Related: Fabric shrinkage, Yarn count
Fabric shrinkage

The reduction in fabric dimensions after washing or wetting, common in cotton and viscose; fabric is usually pre-shrunk or washed before cutting.

Related: GSM, Pre-shrinking, Relaxation
Pre-shrinking

A finishing treatment, mechanical or by controlled wetting and drying, that stabilises fabric so later washing causes minimal further shrinkage.

Related: Fabric shrinkage, Relaxation
Relaxation

Allowing cut fabric or a stitched garment to rest so that tension built up during weaving, knitting or sewing is released and the piece settles to its natural size.

Related: Fabric shrinkage, Pressing
Pattern drafting

Constructing a paper pattern from body measurements using calculated rules and lines, producing a basic block that can be adapted into designs.

Related: Basic block, Grading, Seam allowance
Basic block

A close-fitting master pattern for a bodice, sleeve or skirt, made without design features, from which many styles are developed by manipulation.

Related: Pattern drafting, Dart, Grading
Seam allowance

The extra width added outside the stitching line on a pattern, usually 1 to 1.5 cm, so the seam can be joined and finished without reducing the garment size.

Related: Pattern drafting, Seam, Notch
Dart

A wedge-shaped fold stitched into fabric to remove excess fullness and shape it to the body, commonly at the bust, waist and shoulder.

Related: Basic block, Gather, Ease
Ease

The extra measurement built into a pattern beyond the body size so the wearer can move and breathe; it may be functional or a design feature.

Related: Dart, Basic block
Grading

Systematically increasing or decreasing a pattern through a range of sizes while keeping the design proportions correct.

Related: Basic block, Pattern drafting
Notch

A small mark cut on the edge of a pattern and matching fabric piece to help align seams correctly during sewing.

Related: Seam allowance, Pattern layout
Pattern layout

The plan for placing pattern pieces on fabric so that grain lines are respected, nap and print direction are followed, and fabric waste is minimised.

Related: Grain, Notch, Marker
Marker

A long paper or digital plan showing all pattern pieces nested closely together for a whole size range, used to cut many layers economically.

Related: Pattern layout, Cutting
Cutting

The process of separating fabric pieces from the lay according to pattern outlines, using shears, a straight knife or a rotary cutter.

Related: Marker, Lay, Fabric wastage
Lay

A stack of fabric plies spread to a required length and height for bulk cutting, so that many identical pieces are cut in one operation.

Related: Marker, Cutting
Stitch class

A grouping of stitches by the way they are formed, such as lockstitch, chainstitch, overlock and coverstitch, each suited to particular seams and edges.

Related: Seam, Overlock, Stitch density
Stitch density

The number of stitches per unit length, usually stitches per inch or per centimetre, which affects seam strength, stretch and appearance.

Related: Stitch class, Seam
Seam

The line of stitching joining two or more fabric pieces; common types include plain, French, flat-fell and overlocked seams.

Related: Seam allowance, Overlock, Stitch class
Overlock

A stitch that trims the raw edge and wraps it with loops of thread while joining pieces, giving a neat, stretchable finish on knits and wovens.

Related: Seam, Stitch class, Binding
Binding

A strip of fabric, often cut on the bias, folded over a raw edge and stitched to enclose and finish it, as on necklines and armholes.

Related: Bias, Overlock
Gather

Drawing up fabric on two rows of loose stitching to create controlled fullness, used at waistlines, cuffs and frills.

Related: Dart, Pleat
Pleat

A flat fold of fabric pressed or stitched in place to give fullness and structure, as in school skirts and curtains.

Related: Gather, Curtain heading
Curtain heading

The top finish of a curtain, such as pencil pleat, eyelet, tab top or rod pocket, which determines how it hangs and is fitted to the track.

Related: Pleat, Drop, Lining
Drop

The finished length of a curtain or blind measured from the top fitting to the required bottom point, such as sill, below-sill or floor level.

Related: Curtain heading, Fullness ratio
Fullness ratio

The factor by which flat fabric width is multiplied to give gathered curtain width, commonly 2 to 2.5 times the track width.

Related: Drop, Curtain heading
Lining

A separate inner layer of fabric attached inside a garment or curtain to hide seams, add body and protect the outer fabric from light and wear.

Related: Curtain heading, Interlining
Interlining

A fabric layer placed between the outer fabric and lining, or fused to the back of fabric, to add stiffness, warmth or shape.

Related: Fusing, Lining
Fusing

Bonding a resin-coated interlining to fabric with heat and pressure so the two layers stay together and give a crisp, stable finish.

Related: Interlining, Pressing
Pressing

Applying heat, moisture and pressure with an iron to smooth, shape and set seams and garments; it differs from ironing, which slides the iron.

Related: Fusing, Relaxation
Puckering

An unwanted wavy or wrinkled surface along a seam, often caused by incorrect thread tension, poor feed or mismatched fabric and thread.

Related: Stitch density, Seam
AQL

Acceptable Quality Level, the maximum percentage of defective units tolerated in a lot during sampling inspection; it guides pass or fail decisions.

Related: Four-point system, Inspection
Four-point system

A fabric inspection method that assigns 1 to 4 penalty points to defects according to their length or size, then compares the total with an agreed limit.

Related: AQL, Inspection
Inspection

Checking materials, in-process work or finished goods against a specification to detect defects before the product moves to the next stage or the customer.

Related: AQL, Four-point system
Fabric wastage

The unusable fabric left after cutting, caused by poor marker planning, faulty spreading or defects; it directly raises material cost.

Related: Marker, Cutting
Personal protective equipment

Items such as needle guards, finger guards, aprons, masks and closed shoes worn to reduce injury and health risks at the sewing or cutting station.

Related: Ergonomics, Machine guarding
Machine guarding

Fitting shields, needle guards and pulley covers on sewing, cutting and pressing machines so moving parts cannot contact the operator's hands or body.

Related: Personal protective equipment, Ergonomics
Ergonomics

Designing the workstation, chair height, table level and task sequence to fit the worker, reducing strain, fatigue and repetitive injury.

Related: Personal protective equipment, Machine guarding
Cost sheet

A statement listing material, labour, overhead and other costs of producing one garment or order, used to set price and calculate margin.

Related: Break-even point, Margin
Break-even point

The sales volume or value at which total revenue equals total cost, so the business makes neither profit nor loss.

Related: Cost sheet, Margin
Margin

The difference between selling price and cost, expressed as an amount or percentage, showing the profit earned on each unit sold.

Related: Cost sheet, Break-even point
Sampling

Producing a small number of trial garments to an approved specification so the buyer can check fit, fabric and workmanship before bulk production.

Related: Specification sheet, Cost sheet
Specification sheet

A document giving measurements, fabric, colour, trims, construction details and packing instructions for a style, used as the reference for production and inspection.

Related: Sampling, Inspection