Haryana BSEH Secondary NSQF Apparel Made-Ups and Home Furnishing key terms
Haryana BSEH Secondary NSQF Apparel Made-Ups and Home Furnishing · Get comfortable with the vocabulary.
- Staple fibre
- Related: Filament, Yarn count, Spinning
A short natural fibre measured in centimetres, such as cotton, jute or wool, which must be twisted together with many similar fibres to form a yarn.
- Filament
- Related: Staple fibre, Man-made fibre
A very long continuous fibre strand, natural like silk or man-made like polyester, that can form a yarn with little or no twisting.
- Yarn count
- Related: Warp, Weft, Staple fibre
A number expressing yarn thickness or fineness, either as weight per fixed length or length per fixed weight, used to select yarn for a fabric.
- Warp
- Related: Weft, Selvedge, Grain
The set of parallel lengthwise threads stretched on the loom before weaving begins; they run along the selvedge direction of the fabric.
- Weft
- Related: Warp, Selvedge
The crosswise yarn inserted over and under the warp threads during weaving, running from one selvedge to the other.
- Selvedge
- Related: Warp, Weft, Grain
The firmly woven narrow edge running along both sides of a woven fabric, formed where the weft turns back, which prevents fraying.
- Grain
- Related: Warp, Bias, Selvedge
The direction of yarns in a fabric; lengthwise grain follows the warp, crosswise grain follows the weft, and true bias lies at 45 degrees to both.
- Bias
- Related: Grain, Binding
A line at 45 degrees to the lengthwise and crosswise grain of a woven fabric; bias-cut strips stretch and are used for binding and piping.
- GSM
- Related: Fabric shrinkage, Yarn count
Grams per square metre, the standard measure of fabric weight; a higher value generally means a thicker, heavier fabric.
- Fabric shrinkage
- Related: GSM, Pre-shrinking, Relaxation
The reduction in fabric dimensions after washing or wetting, common in cotton and viscose; fabric is usually pre-shrunk or washed before cutting.
- Pre-shrinking
- Related: Fabric shrinkage, Relaxation
A finishing treatment, mechanical or by controlled wetting and drying, that stabilises fabric so later washing causes minimal further shrinkage.
- Relaxation
- Related: Fabric shrinkage, Pressing
Allowing cut fabric or a stitched garment to rest so that tension built up during weaving, knitting or sewing is released and the piece settles to its natural size.
- Pattern drafting
- Related: Basic block, Grading, Seam allowance
Constructing a paper pattern from body measurements using calculated rules and lines, producing a basic block that can be adapted into designs.
- Basic block
- Related: Pattern drafting, Dart, Grading
A close-fitting master pattern for a bodice, sleeve or skirt, made without design features, from which many styles are developed by manipulation.
- Seam allowance
- Related: Pattern drafting, Seam, Notch
The extra width added outside the stitching line on a pattern, usually 1 to 1.5 cm, so the seam can be joined and finished without reducing the garment size.
- Dart
- Related: Basic block, Gather, Ease
A wedge-shaped fold stitched into fabric to remove excess fullness and shape it to the body, commonly at the bust, waist and shoulder.
- Ease
- Related: Dart, Basic block
The extra measurement built into a pattern beyond the body size so the wearer can move and breathe; it may be functional or a design feature.
- Grading
- Related: Basic block, Pattern drafting
Systematically increasing or decreasing a pattern through a range of sizes while keeping the design proportions correct.
- Notch
- Related: Seam allowance, Pattern layout
A small mark cut on the edge of a pattern and matching fabric piece to help align seams correctly during sewing.
- Pattern layout
- Related: Grain, Notch, Marker
The plan for placing pattern pieces on fabric so that grain lines are respected, nap and print direction are followed, and fabric waste is minimised.
- Marker
- Related: Pattern layout, Cutting
A long paper or digital plan showing all pattern pieces nested closely together for a whole size range, used to cut many layers economically.
- Cutting
- Related: Marker, Lay, Fabric wastage
The process of separating fabric pieces from the lay according to pattern outlines, using shears, a straight knife or a rotary cutter.
- Lay
- Related: Marker, Cutting
A stack of fabric plies spread to a required length and height for bulk cutting, so that many identical pieces are cut in one operation.
- Stitch class
- Related: Seam, Overlock, Stitch density
A grouping of stitches by the way they are formed, such as lockstitch, chainstitch, overlock and coverstitch, each suited to particular seams and edges.
- Stitch density
- Related: Stitch class, Seam
The number of stitches per unit length, usually stitches per inch or per centimetre, which affects seam strength, stretch and appearance.
- Seam
- Related: Seam allowance, Overlock, Stitch class
The line of stitching joining two or more fabric pieces; common types include plain, French, flat-fell and overlocked seams.
- Overlock
- Related: Seam, Stitch class, Binding
A stitch that trims the raw edge and wraps it with loops of thread while joining pieces, giving a neat, stretchable finish on knits and wovens.
- Binding
- Related: Bias, Overlock
A strip of fabric, often cut on the bias, folded over a raw edge and stitched to enclose and finish it, as on necklines and armholes.
- Gather
- Related: Dart, Pleat
Drawing up fabric on two rows of loose stitching to create controlled fullness, used at waistlines, cuffs and frills.
- Pleat
- Related: Gather, Curtain heading
A flat fold of fabric pressed or stitched in place to give fullness and structure, as in school skirts and curtains.
- Curtain heading
- Related: Pleat, Drop, Lining
The top finish of a curtain, such as pencil pleat, eyelet, tab top or rod pocket, which determines how it hangs and is fitted to the track.
- Drop
- Related: Curtain heading, Fullness ratio
The finished length of a curtain or blind measured from the top fitting to the required bottom point, such as sill, below-sill or floor level.
- Fullness ratio
- Related: Drop, Curtain heading
The factor by which flat fabric width is multiplied to give gathered curtain width, commonly 2 to 2.5 times the track width.
- Lining
- Related: Curtain heading, Interlining
A separate inner layer of fabric attached inside a garment or curtain to hide seams, add body and protect the outer fabric from light and wear.
- Interlining
- Related: Fusing, Lining
A fabric layer placed between the outer fabric and lining, or fused to the back of fabric, to add stiffness, warmth or shape.
- Fusing
- Related: Interlining, Pressing
Bonding a resin-coated interlining to fabric with heat and pressure so the two layers stay together and give a crisp, stable finish.
- Pressing
- Related: Fusing, Relaxation
Applying heat, moisture and pressure with an iron to smooth, shape and set seams and garments; it differs from ironing, which slides the iron.
- Puckering
- Related: Stitch density, Seam
An unwanted wavy or wrinkled surface along a seam, often caused by incorrect thread tension, poor feed or mismatched fabric and thread.
- AQL
- Related: Four-point system, Inspection
Acceptable Quality Level, the maximum percentage of defective units tolerated in a lot during sampling inspection; it guides pass or fail decisions.
- Four-point system
- Related: AQL, Inspection
A fabric inspection method that assigns 1 to 4 penalty points to defects according to their length or size, then compares the total with an agreed limit.
- Inspection
- Related: AQL, Four-point system
Checking materials, in-process work or finished goods against a specification to detect defects before the product moves to the next stage or the customer.
- Fabric wastage
- Related: Marker, Cutting
The unusable fabric left after cutting, caused by poor marker planning, faulty spreading or defects; it directly raises material cost.
- Personal protective equipment
- Related: Ergonomics, Machine guarding
Items such as needle guards, finger guards, aprons, masks and closed shoes worn to reduce injury and health risks at the sewing or cutting station.
- Machine guarding
- Related: Personal protective equipment, Ergonomics
Fitting shields, needle guards and pulley covers on sewing, cutting and pressing machines so moving parts cannot contact the operator's hands or body.
- Ergonomics
- Related: Personal protective equipment, Machine guarding
Designing the workstation, chair height, table level and task sequence to fit the worker, reducing strain, fatigue and repetitive injury.
- Cost sheet
- Related: Break-even point, Margin
A statement listing material, labour, overhead and other costs of producing one garment or order, used to set price and calculate margin.
- Break-even point
- Related: Cost sheet, Margin
The sales volume or value at which total revenue equals total cost, so the business makes neither profit nor loss.
- Margin
- Related: Cost sheet, Break-even point
The difference between selling price and cost, expressed as an amount or percentage, showing the profit earned on each unit sold.
- Sampling
- Related: Specification sheet, Cost sheet
Producing a small number of trial garments to an approved specification so the buyer can check fit, fabric and workmanship before bulk production.
- Specification sheet
- Related: Sampling, Inspection
A document giving measurements, fabric, colour, trims, construction details and packing instructions for a style, used as the reference for production and inspection.