Pattern Making and Cutting
Pattern Making and Cutting
This domain tests body measurement, basic block construction, dart manipulation, seam allowance, grainline and marker planning. The exam often gives a measurement chart or cutting-room figure and asks for a calculation or a fault diagnosis.
Core rules
- Take measurements over well-fitting clothing, keeping the tape level and snug but not tight.
- A basic block has no seam allowance; add seam allowance when making the production pattern.
- Mark grainline parallel to the selvedge, place notches on seam edges, and transfer darts accurately.
- Typical allowances: 1 cm on side seams and armholes, 2.5–4 cm on hems, depending on the product and buyer specification.
- Marker efficiency = (area of pattern pieces ÷ area of marker) × 100. A higher figure means less fabric waste.
- Respect fabric width, repeat, nap and check matching before finalising the lay.
Worked example
A marker is 3.0 m long and 1.12 m wide, so marker area = 3.36 m². The pattern pieces total 2.85 m². Efficiency = 2.85 ÷ 3.36 × 100 = 84.8%. If the target is 88%, the marker needs re-planning-perhaps by rotating a small piece or changing the size mix-before cutting begins.
Marks-losing traps
Cutting the block without seam allowance; placing the grainline across the selvedge; ignoring fabric repeat when matching checks; cutting a folded edge as an open edge; forgetting that nap fabrics need all pieces in one direction.
Key points
- Blocks have no seam allowance; production patterns do.
- Grainline runs parallel to the selvedge.
- Notches and darts must be transferred accurately.
- Marker efficiency = pattern area ÷ marker area × 100.
- Check repeat, nap and check matching before cutting.