Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics
This domain tests fibre classification, yarn numbering, twist and fabric formation. You must link properties to use and calculate basic count conversions.
Fibres and yarns
Natural fibres include cotton, linen, wool and silk. Man-made fibres include regenerated viscose and synthetic polyester and nylon. Staple fibres are short and spun; filament fibres are continuous. Yarn count: Ne, the cotton count, is hanks per pound; a higher Ne means a finer yarn. Tex is grams per 1000 m; a higher tex means a coarser yarn. Twist gives strength and compactness; low twist gives softness.
Fabrics
Woven fabrics interlace warp and weft; they are stable and low stretch. Plain, twill and satin are basic weaves. Knitted fabrics form loops and give stretch and drape; weft knits are common in T-shirts. Nonwoven fabrics are bonded fibres with no yarn, used in interfacing and wipes.
Worked example
A cotton yarn is Ne 40. Convert to tex: tex = 590.5 divided by Ne = 590.5 divided by 40, which is about 14.8 tex. Reasoning: Ne is an indirect count, so a larger number means a finer yarn; tex is direct, so the equivalent is a small tex value. A 20 Ne yarn would be about 29.5 tex, which is coarser.
Traps
Do not say higher tex is finer. Do not confuse warp, the lengthwise yarn, with weft, the crosswise yarn. Do not call a knit a nonwoven; knits are made from yarn loops. Do not assume all shiny fibres are synthetic, because silk and viscose can be lustrous. Identify fabric by structure and stretch, not feel alone.