Pattern Making, Grading and Cutting
This domain tests pattern drafting, fitting, grading and cutting-room practice. You need measurement logic, seam allowance, grain and marker efficiency.
Pattern basics
A block is a basic fitted pattern without design features. A working pattern adds seam allowance, ease and closure. Mark grainline, notches, darts, centre front or back, and fold lines. True seams so adjoining edges match. A toile or muslin checks fit before cutting final fabric.
Grading and cutting
Grading increases or decreases pattern dimensions by size increments; it does not scale the whole pattern proportionally. In the cutting room, fabric is spread, the marker is placed and the lay is cut. Respect nap, one-way prints, checks, grain and shade. Marker efficiency equals marker area divided by fabric area, multiplied by 100.
Worked example
A marker uses 12.0 square metres of pattern area on 15.0 square metres of fabric. Efficiency = 12.0 divided by 15.0 multiplied by 100 = 80%. If the order is 500 garments and each garment consumes 1.5 m, net fabric need is 750 m. At 80% marker efficiency, gross need is 750 divided by 0.80 = 937.5 m. Reasoning: efficiency inflates net consumption because some fabric becomes waste.
Traps
Do not forget seam allowance on working patterns. Do not grade by adding the same amount to every point. Do not ignore grainline or directional prints; they cause twisted garments and shade bars. Do not calculate marker efficiency as waste percentage. Do not cut checks without matching the repeat.