Garment Construction and Finishing
This domain tests seams, stitches, construction sequence, pressing and finishing. You must choose the method that suits fabric, end use and quality level.
Stitches and seams
Lockstitch 301 is common. Overlock 504 neatens and sews edges. Coverstitch gives stretch hems. Seam types include plain, French, flat-felled, run-and-fell and lapped. Stitches per inch affect strength and appearance. Correct needle size, thread tension and presser foot pressure prevent puckering.
Finishing
Finishing includes trimming, thread removal, pressing, inspection, folding and packing. Pressing is not ironing: pressing lifts and lowers the iron, while ironing slides it. Interfacing supports shape. Test shrinkage and attach care labels correctly.
Worked example
Choose a seam for a sheer cotton voile blouse. A French seam is suitable because it encloses raw edges inside a narrow seam, giving a clean inside and preventing fraying on a lightweight fabric. A plain seam with overlock is faster but shows bulky edges. For a denim jean, a flat-felled seam is stronger and gives the classic double-stitched look. Reasoning: match seam bulk and strength to fabric weight and visibility.
Traps
Do not use a French seam on thick fabric where bulk causes ridges. Do not confuse stitch type with seam type. Do not fix skipped stitches only by loosening tension; check needle, timing and thread. Do not press creases into sensitive fabrics. Do not skip testing stitches per inch on a scrap.