Odisha CHSE +2 Vocational Fashion Technology cheat sheet

Fashion cycle stages: introduction, rise (growth), culmination (peak), decline, obsolescence/rejection; a fad completes this cycle in one season, a classic recurs over decades.

Fibre properties that drive fabric performance: length-to-breadth (staple vs filament), tenacity (g/denier), elongation at break (%), elastic recovery (%), moisture regain (%), and abrasion resistance.

Standard moisture regain values: cotton 8.5%, wool 13-16%, silk 11%, viscose 11-13%, polyester 0.4%, nylon 4-4.5%.

Textile production chain: fibre -> yarn (spinning) -> fabric (weaving/knitting/nonwoven) -> wet processing (dyeing, printing, finishing) -> garment (cutting, sewing, pressing).

Staple length classes: short staple under 25 mm (cotton waste), medium 25-30 mm, long staple 30-40 mm (fine cotton), extra-long staple above 40 mm (Egyptian, Pima).

Count systems: indirect (English cotton count Ne, metric Nm, worsted) where higher number = finer yarn; direct (tex, denier) where higher number = coarser yarn.

Fabric weight expressed as GSM (g/m2); fabric cover, drape, and hand are judged against end use: shirting 100-150 GSM, denim 350-450 GSM, suiting 200-300 GSM.

Natural fibres: cotton, flax, jute, coir (cellulosic); wool, silk, mohair (protein). Regenerated: viscose, modal, acetate. Synthetic: polyester, nylon, acrylic, spandex, polypropylene.

Cotton fibre is 88-96% cellulose; the cuticle and pectin are removed by scouring, and the lumen gives low lustre and good moisture absorbency.

Burning test identification: cotton/flax burn with paper smell and grey ash; wool/silk smell of burnt hair with crushable black ash; polyester melts and beads with a sweet chemical odour.

Wool scales give felting shrinkage; shrink-resist treatment uses chlorine (Hercosett) or polymer coating to blunt the scale edges.

Silk is a continuous filament from Bombyx mori; degumming removes sericin, and the fibre loses roughly 20-25% weight in the process.

Polyester is a condensation polymer of terephthalic acid and ethylene glycol (PET); it is thermoplastic, so heat-setting fixes pleats and permanent press.

Spandex (elastane) stretches to 500-600% of its length and recovers; it is always blended (typically 2-10%) and never used alone in woven garments.

Regenerated cellulosics differ from cotton in having lower wet strength (viscose loses about 40-50% strength when wet) and higher elongation.

Yarn twist direction: S-twist (spiral follows the middle of the letter S) and Z-twist; single yarns alternate twist direction in plied yarns to balance torque.

Twist multiplier = turns per inch / sqrt(cotton count); higher twist gives stronger, harder yarns up to a point, then strength falls.

Weave notation: plain weave has interlacing every pick and end and the maximum crimp; twill shows diagonal lines (2/1 or 3/1); satin floats over four or more ends and gives lustre with low abrasion resistance.

Warp yarns run lengthwise and are stronger and more twisted; weft (filling) yarns run crosswise; warp count is reported as ends per inch (EPI), weft as picks per inch (PPI).

Knitting terms: wale = vertical column of loops, course = horizontal row of loops; weft knits (single jersey, rib, interlock) stretch crosswise, warp knits (tricot, raschel) are more stable.

Rib knit uses alternating knit and purl wales; 1x1 rib gives crosswise stretch for cuffs and neckbands; interlock is a balanced double-knit with two faces of knit loops.

Nonwoven bonding methods: needle-punching, thermal calendering, spunlacing (hydroentanglement), and chemical/thermal bonding; no yarn is formed.

Fabric count and cover factor: cover factor = (threads per inch) / sqrt(yarn count); higher cover factor means a denser, less permeable fabric.

Basic blocks: bodice, skirt, sleeve, trouser; a block has no design ease, only wearing ease, and is traced and adapted rather than drafted from scratch for each style.

Dart manipulation rules: a dart may be moved to any position around a pivot point, but its legs must stay the same length and its intake must be preserved.

Grading increment: the total body girth increase per size is divided by the number of pattern pieces meeting at that seam; a size jump is normally 4 cm bust/hip and 2 cm waist.

Seam allowance standards: 1 cm general seams, 1.5 cm at side seams, 2.5-3 cm at hems; a pattern must show grain line, notches, fold line, and cut quantity.

Grain line is drawn parallel to the centre front or centre back; garments cut off-grain twist and hang unevenly after washing.

Trueing a pattern means making adjoining seams the same length and correcting dart points and curves so the sewn seam matches.

Ease: wearing ease is the minimum for movement (about 4-6 cm at bust); design ease is the additional allowance that creates the silhouette.

Stitch classification (ISO 4915): class 300 lockstitch, class 400 chainstitch (overlock 504 is a 3-thread overedge), class 500 overedge, class 600 covering chain stitch.

Seam classification (ISO 4916): class 1 superimposed, class 2 lapped, class 3 bound, class 4 flat, class 5 decorative, class 6 edge-neatened, class 7 attached, class 8 single-ply.

Stitch density: 10-14 stitches per inch is normal for woven shirting; too few stitches cause seam grin, too many cause thread breakage and puckering.

Seam strength depends on stitch type, thread strength, and seam allowance; a safety-stitch (401 or 516) is used where seam opening must be prevented.

Needle size follows fabric weight: 70/10 for light silk, 80/12 for shirting, 90/14 for denim, 100/16 for heavy canvas; needle point is sharp for woven, ballpoint for knits.

Interlining and fusible application: temperature, pressure, and time are the three fusing parameters; incorrect fusing causes strike-back or delamination.

Pressing terms: under-pressing is done during construction, top-pressing after assembly; a clapper sets seams and a pressing cloth prevents shine on wool.

Ornamentation categories: applied (applique, patchwork, beadwork), constructed (pleats, tucks, quilting), and printed/dyed (batik, block print, tie-dye).

Batik uses wax resist; the crackle effect comes from wax cracking before dyeing, and the wax is removed by boiling or ironing out.

Tie-dye resists: bound circles (bandhani), folded stripes, and spiral; the resist is the tied or clamped area that stays undyed.

Block printing requires a carved wooden block, a dye pad, and registration marks; repeat accuracy depends on the block and table alignment.

Applique attaches a cut shape to a base fabric with satin stitch or blanket stitch; raw-edge and turned-edge are the two main variants.

Smocking uses gathering threads in a grid and stitches (cable, honeycomb, wave) to control the gathers; fabric requirement is roughly three times the finished width.

Quilting joins two layers with a filling; stitch patterns include grid, diamond, and outline, and the filling determines warmth and drape.

Hand embroidery stitches: running, back, stem, chain, satin, long-and-short (shading), French knot, lazy daisy, and blanket stitch.

Satin stitch covers an area with parallel stitches; long floats snag, so long-and-short shading is used for large areas.

Counted-thread work (cross stitch) is worked on evenweave; the stitch count per inch of the fabric (count) determines motif size.

Machine embroidery digitising order: underlay, fill, satin border, then detail; incorrect sequencing causes gaps and puckering.

Stabiliser selection: tear-away for stable wovens, cut-away for knits, water-soluble for sheer fabrics and freestanding lace.

Beadwork and sequins are attached with a backstitch or couching thread; weight per square metre must be checked so the garment does not sag.

Zardosi and aari work use a hook (aari) with metallic thread, beads, and sequins; the fabric is stretched on a frame before working.

Standard fashion figure is 9 heads tall (croquis); the fashion figure exaggerates legs and neck compared with the 7.5-head realistic figure.

Balance line runs from the pit of the neck through the centre of the weight-bearing leg; it controls the pose and prevents the figure from looking tipped.

Colour wheel relationships: complementary (opposite), analogous (adjacent), triadic (three evenly spaced); value is lightness/darkness, saturation is intensity.

Flat sketches (technical drawings) show construction detail, topstitching, and trims; they are drawn to scale and are the basis for tech packs.

Design development stages: inspiration, research, mood board, colour story, fabric board, croquis, flats, and final range plan.

Colour rendering media: watercolour and marker for wash effects, gouache for opaque flat colour, and coloured pencil for texture; the medium must suit the fabric sheen.

Technical flat conventions: dashed lines for topstitching, solid for seams, and a grain-line arrow on each panel.

Production systems: progressive bundle system (PBS), unit production system (UPS), and modular/team sewing; PBS has high work-in-progress, UPS has low WIP and short throughput time.

Operation breakdown splits a style into sequential operations with SAM (standard allowed minutes); line balancing assigns operations so each workstation's load is equal.

Efficiency = (standard minutes produced / minutes attended) x 100; a line at 80% efficiency produces 80% of the SAM-based target.

Cutting room sequence: marker making, spreading, cutting, bundling, ticketing; fabric utilisation = marker area / fabric area x 100.

Quality control tools: AQL sampling (ISO 2859-1), 4-point fabric inspection (penalty points per 100 square yards), and the seven QC tools including Pareto and cause-and-effect diagrams.

Defect classification: critical (safety, needle), major (function, appearance), minor (cosmetic); AQL levels for garments are commonly 2.5 major and 4.0 minor.

Costing: FOB = fabric cost + trims + CM (cut-make) + overhead + profit; fabric consumption per garment is calculated from the marker and adds 3-5% wastage.

Retail math: markup % = (retail - cost) / retail x 100 (margin) or / cost x 100 (markup on cost); these two formulas give different numbers for the same item.

Open-to-buy (OTB) = planned purchases at retail - on-order - inventory on hand; it controls buying within a budget period.

Stock turnover = net sales / average inventory at retail; a higher turnover means faster selling but risks stockouts.

Product life cycle stages: introduction, growth, maturity, decline; pricing strategies (skimming, penetration) are chosen per stage.

Fashion forecasting sources: trend services, trade fairs, street observation, and sales history; the range plan balances core, fashion, and seasonal items.

Entrepreneurship essentials for a garment unit: Udyam registration, GST registration, product costing, break-even analysis, and a brand/positioning statement.

Break-even quantity = fixed cost / (selling price - variable cost per unit); fixed costs include rent and salaries, variable costs include fabric and trims.

CAD systems in garment production: pattern design (digitising, grading, marker making), 3D virtual sampling (CLO3D, Browzwear), and print design (Adobe Illustrator, Photoshop).

Vector vs raster: vector (Illustrator, .AI, .EPS) scales without pixelation and suits flats; raster (Photoshop, .PSD) is pixel-based and suits photo retouching.

Marker-making software nests pattern pieces to minimise fabric waste; efficiency is reported as marker utilisation percentage.

Plotter and digitising table functions: a digitising table converts a hard pattern into a digital file; a plotter prints the graded pattern or marker.

Common file formats: DXF/AAMA for pattern exchange, PDF for markers, TIFF/JPEG for artwork; DXF preserves graded sizes and seam data.

ERP and PLM systems track styles, BOM, sampling, and production status; a BOM (bill of materials) lists every fabric, trim, and component per garment.

Spreadsheet use in merchandising: VLOOKUP for style data, pivot tables for size-wise sales, and formulas for costing and consumption.

Sewing machine guarding: needle guard, finger guard, and pulley guard are mandatory; the needle bar and belt drive are the main pinch points.

Ergonomic hazards in sewing: repetitive strain, poor posture, and eye strain; workstation height should place the elbows at roughly 90 degrees with the needle at eye level.

Fabric dust and fibre fly cause respiratory risk; local exhaust ventilation and masks are used in cutting and brushing sections.

Chemical hazards: dyeing and finishing use acids, alkalis, and formaldehyde-based resins; PPE includes gloves, goggles, and aprons, and SDS sheets must be available.

Fire safety: fabric is highly flammable; extinguishers are CO2 or dry powder for electrical fires, and aisles and exits must stay clear.

Needle and metal detection: broken needles are recorded and accounted for, and finished garments pass through a metal detector before packing.

First aid for needle pricks and cuts: wash, apply antiseptic, dress, and report; a needle injury is a recordable incident in most factory systems.

Portfolio structure: mood board, research pages, design development, technical flats, fabric swatches, construction samples, and final photographs.

Sample construction record: stitch type, SPI, needle size, seam allowance, and pressing method must be logged for each sample so it can be reproduced.

Spec sheet (tech pack) contents: style sketch, measurement chart (POM), construction details, BOM, colourways, and packaging instructions.

Measurement points (POM) must be defined with clear start/end points; garment is measured flat and compared against the size chart with tolerance (+/- 1 cm typical).

Project report format: aim, objectives, methodology, observations, results, conclusion, and references; the viva covers the process, not only the product.

Fabric swatch record: fibre content, count/GSM, weave/knit, finish, shrinkage, and colourfastness test results should accompany each swatch.

Cost sheet for a project garment: fabric consumption x rate + trims + labour + overhead + profit margin = selling price; keep receipts and rate proofs for the viva.