Odisha CHSE +2 Vocational Fashion Technology key terms

The two thread systems that make up woven fabric. Warp threads run lengthwise under tension on the loom; weft threads run crosswise and are inserted over and under the warp.

The firmly finished lengthwise edge of a woven fabric that prevents the warp yarns from unravelling. It is usually denser than the body of the cloth and is not used for garment seams.

The direction of the warp yarns in a woven fabric, marked on paper patterns as a long arrow. Pattern pieces are placed parallel to it so the finished garment hangs and drapes correctly.

A line at 45 degrees to the warp and weft of a woven fabric. Bias-cut strips stretch and curve easily, making them suitable for binding curved edges and for garments that cling and drape.

A woven structure with equal numbers of warp and weft threads of similar count per unit length, such as plain weave. It gives similar strength and appearance in both directions.

A weave in which weft threads pass over one or more warp threads and then under two or more, producing diagonal lines on the surface. Denim and gabardine are common examples.

A weave where floating yarns pass over several threads before interlacing, giving a smooth, lustrous face and a dull back. Long floats make the fabric prone to snagging.

Cloth formed by interlocking loops of yarn rather than interlacing two thread systems. It stretches and recovers, so knit garments need patterns with less ease and seams sewn with a stretch stitch.

A number expressing yarn thickness. Direct systems count mass per fixed length; indirect systems count length per fixed mass, so a higher indirect count means a finer yarn.

The direction in which fibres are spun into a yarn, described as S or Z according to the slant of the spiral. Twist affects yarn strength, smoothness and the appearance of the finished cloth.

A yarn made by twisting two or more single yarns together. Plying increases strength, evenness and abrasion resistance compared with the single yarns from which it is made.

A fabric or yarn made from two or more different fibre types spun or woven together, such as polyester and cotton. Blending combines properties like strength, absorbency and easy care.

Grams per square metre, the standard measure of fabric weight. It is used to select suitable cloth for a garment type and to estimate fabric consumption for costing.

The process of systematically increasing or decreasing a master pattern to produce a range of sizes while keeping design proportions and fit consistent. Rules are applied to specific points on the pattern.

The extra width added beyond the stitching line on a pattern piece so the garment can be joined and finished. Its size varies with fabric, seam type and the machinery used.

A small mark cut into or drawn on the edge of a pattern piece and transferred to the fabric to align matching pieces during sewing. Notches also indicate centre front and centre back.

A stitched triangular fold that removes excess fabric so flat cloth shapes to the curves of the body, commonly at the bust, waist, shoulder and elbow.

A curved vertical seam running from shoulder or armhole through the bust to the waist. It shapes the garment and replaces the bust dart, giving a fitted, paneled look.

The difference between body measurements and garment measurements that allows movement and comfort. Design ease is added for style; wearing ease is the minimum needed to move and breathe.

A trial garment made in inexpensive plain cloth to test the fit and design of a pattern before cutting the final fabric. Fitting corrections are transferred back to the paper pattern.

Wrinkling along a seam caused by incorrect thread tension, differential feed, needle or fabric mismatch, or a stitch too short for the cloth. It is a common sewing defect checked in inspection.

The number of stitches per unit length of seam, set by stitch length. Too few stitches weaken the seam; too many can pucker fine fabric or damage it at the needle line.

A stitch formed by looping threads around the cut edge of fabric while trimming it, producing a secure, stretchable edge finish. It is widely used on knits and for seam neatening.

The quality level that is the worst tolerable process average for a sampling plan. In garment inspection it sets how many defects are allowed in a lot before it is rejected.

A fabric inspection method that assigns 1 to 4 penalty points to defects according to their length or size. Points per unit area are compared with a standard to accept or reject the roll.

A diagram showing pattern pieces arranged as closely as possible on a length of fabric to minimise waste. Marker efficiency directly affects fabric cost per garment.

The production document issued with a lay that specifies style, size ratio, fabric, marker, quantity and cutting instructions. It links the cutting room to sewing and stores records for traceability.

A label attached to a group of cut garment parts identifying style, size, shade and quantity. It allows sewing operators and checkers to keep matched pieces together through production.

A technical package sent by a buyer to a manufacturer containing design sketches, measurements, construction details, fabric and trim specifications, and labelling requirements for producing a style.

A document listing the measured dimensions of a garment at defined points for each size, with tolerances. It is used to check fit samples and bulk production against the buyer's requirements.

A statement that itemises fabric, trims, labour, overheads, packing and profit to arrive at the price of a garment. It supports quoting, negotiation and margin analysis.

Free on board price, the price of goods delivered on board the ship at the port of shipment. The buyer pays freight and insurance from that point onward.

Any technique that adds decoration to the surface of fabric, such as embroidery, printing, applique, quilting or beadwork, without changing the basic garment structure.

A decoration made by cutting a shape from one fabric and stitching it onto another. The raw edges may be turned under or finished with a dense satin or buttonhole stitch.

Metallic thread, traditionally silver or gold wound around a silk core, used in Indian embroidery and brocade. It is characteristic of Odisha's Bomkai and Sambalpuri work.

A resist-dyeing technique in which yarns are bound and dyed before weaving so the pattern appears with characteristic feathered edges. Odisha's Sambalpuri bandha is a well-known form.

A scaled, two-dimensional line drawing of a garment showing seams, stitches, trims and proportions. It communicates construction detail accurately and is included in the tech pack.

A stylised figure drawing used as the base for fashion illustrations. Designers sketch garments over the croquis to show proportion, drape and the mood of a collection.

One specific combination of colours in which a design is offered. A single style may be produced in several colourways, each with its own fabric and trim references.

The study of fitting workstations, tools and tasks to the human body to reduce strain. In sewing rooms it guides table height, seating, lighting and reach distances.

A physical barrier fitted around the sewing machine needle area that prevents fingers from being pierced. It is a basic engineering control in garment workshops.

A document supplied with chemicals listing hazards, safe handling, protective equipment and first-aid measures. It must be available where dyes, solvents or finishing agents are stored and used.