Odisha CHSE +2 Vocational Fashion Technology flashcards

33 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.

Fashion cycle

The sequence a style passes through: introduction, growth, peak, decline, and obsolescence. A fad completes it in one season, while a classic reappears over many years.

Moisture regain

The percentage of moisture a dry fibre absorbs from standard atmosphere. Cotton is about 8.5%, wool 13-16%, and polyester only 0.4%, which explains comfort differences.

Tex and denier

Direct yarn count systems. Tex is the weight in grams of 1000 metres of yarn; denier is the weight in grams of 9000 metres. Higher numbers mean coarser yarn.

GSM

Grams per square metre, the standard measure of fabric weight. It guides end use: light shirting is near 100-150 GSM, while denim is 350-450 GSM.

Cotton fibre composition

Cotton is 88-96% cellulose, with pectin, wax, and protein in the outer layers. Scouring removes these impurities and makes the fibre absorbent for dyeing.

Burning test

A fibre identification test. Cotton and flax smell of burning paper and leave grey ash; wool and silk smell of burnt hair; polyester melts and beads with a chemical odour.

Elastane

A synthetic elastomeric fibre that stretches to 500-600% of its length and recovers. It is used in blends of 2-10% to give garments stretch and shape retention.

Regenerated fibre

A fibre made by dissolving a natural polymer and extruding it. Viscose, modal, and acetate come from cellulose; they differ from cotton in having lower wet strength.

S-twist and Z-twist

Yarn twist directions named after the slant of the letter. S-twist spirals like the middle of S and Z-twist like Z; plying opposite single twist balances the yarn.

Plain weave

The simplest weave, where each warp end interlaces alternately over and under each weft pick. It gives maximum interlacing, firmness, and low drape.

Wale and course

Knitting terms. A wale is a vertical column of interlocking loops; a course is a horizontal row. Counting both gives the stitch density of a knitted fabric.

Rib knit

A knit with alternating columns of knit and purl loops. The 1x1 rib stretches crosswise and is used for cuffs, waistbands, and neckbands that must recover.

Dart manipulation

Moving a dart around a pivot point to change its position without changing fit. The dart intake and the length of both dart legs must stay the same.

Grading

Increasing or decreasing a pattern through a size range using fixed increments. A normal jump is 4 cm at bust and hip and 2 cm at waist.

Grain line

A line on the pattern parallel to the warp or centre front. Cutting off-grain makes the garment twist and hang unevenly after washing.

Wearing ease versus design ease

Wearing ease is the minimum allowance for movement, about 4-6 cm at the bust. Design ease is extra allowance added to create the intended silhouette.

Lockstitch 301

A ISO class 300 stitch formed by two threads meeting inside the fabric. It is strong and needs no bobbin thread supply from the top, but it has little stretch.

Overlock stitch 504

A three-thread overedge stitch in class 500. It neatens the seam edge and provides stretch, so it is standard for knits and for edge finishing on wovens.

Stitch density

Stitches per inch along a seam. Woven shirting normally uses 10-14 SPI; too few cause seam grin and too many cause puckering and thread breakage.

Needle size selection

Needle size follows fabric weight: 70/10 for light silk, 80/12 for shirting, 90/14 for denim, and 100/16 for heavy canvas. Ballpoint needles are used for knits.

Batik

A wax-resist dyeing method. Molten wax is applied to the fabric before dyeing; cracks in the wax create fine veined lines, and the wax is removed later by boiling.

Smocking

A surface technique where gathering threads are stitched in a grid and held by embroidery stitches. It needs roughly three times the finished width in fabric.

Applique

A cut fabric shape stitched onto a base fabric, usually with satin or blanket stitch. Turned-edge applique hides the raw edge; raw-edge applique leaves it visible.

Satin stitch

Parallel embroidery stitches worked closely to cover an area with a smooth sheen. Long floats snag easily, so long-and-short shading is used for large areas.

Machine embroidery stabiliser

A backing that supports fabric during machine embroidery. Tear-away suits stable wovens, cut-away suits knits, and water-soluble film suits sheer or freestanding work.

Nine-head croquis

The standard fashion figure, drawn nine head-lengths tall. It exaggerates legs and neck compared with the realistic 7.5-head human proportion.

Technical flat

A scaled line drawing of a garment showing seams, topstitching, and trims. Dashed lines mark topstitching, solid lines mark seams, and it forms the basis of a tech pack.

Standard allowed minute

The time allowed to complete one operation at normal pace, including allowances. SAM values are used for line balancing, costing, and efficiency calculation.

Four-point fabric inspection

A defect grading system giving 1-4 penalty points by defect length. Points are totalled per 100 square yards to decide whether a fabric roll is acceptable.

Open-to-buy

The amount a buyer may still spend in a period. It equals planned purchases at retail minus goods already on order minus inventory on hand.

Break-even quantity

The number of units at which total revenue equals total cost. It is fixed cost divided by selling price minus variable cost per unit.

Marker utilisation

The percentage of fabric area actually covered by pattern pieces in a marker. Higher utilisation means less waste, and it is a key cutting-room efficiency measure.

Bill of materials

A list of every fabric, trim, label, and component needed for one garment, with quantity and specification. It drives purchasing and costing in PLM systems.