Surface Ornamentation, Embroidery and Embellishment
What the exam tests
Hand and machine embroidery stitches, surface techniques, tools, and the design logic of choosing an ornamentation method for a motif and fabric.
Core rules
- Line stitches: running, back, stem, chain, blanket. Filling stitches: satin, long-and-short, seed. Knots: French knot, bullion.
- Appliqué cuts a shape and stitches it onto a base; patchwork joins pieces edge to edge; quilting stitches layers together.
- Resist techniques include tie-dye (bound resist) and batik (wax resist); block printing and screen printing are direct print methods.
- Embellishment includes beads, sequins, mirrors (shisha), zari and lace.
- Match weight to fabric: heavy beadwork on chiffon needs backing; satin stitch on stretch fabric needs stabiliser.
Worked example
A floral motif is to be embroidered on a cotton cushion cover: curved stems, broad petals, and small round centres. Reasoning: use stem stitch for stems because it follows curves smoothly; satin stitch for petals because parallel stitches give solid coverage and a sheen; French knots for centres because they make small, raised dots. This combines line, fill and texture without overcrowding the motif.
Traps
- Confusing appliqué with patchwork; one applies a shape, the other joins pieces.
- Working satin stitch without backing on thin fabric, causing holes and puckering.
- Treating tie-dye and batik as the same resist process.