Maharashtra SSC Stitching with Sewing Machine Divyang cheat sheet

Main parts to identify: handwheel, needle bar, presser foot, presser foot lever, feed dog, throat plate, bobbin winder, spool pin, thread guides, tension discs, take-up lever, balance wheel, stitch length regulator, reverse lever.

Needle bar moves up and down; presser foot holds fabric against feed dog; feed dog moves fabric forward one stitch length per revolution.

Handwheel rule: always rotate the handwheel toward you (counter-clockwise on most domestic machines) so the take-up lever is at its highest point before threading or removing fabric.

Take-up lever must be threaded last before the needle; missing it causes loose loops, thread breaks and skipped stitches.

Power safety: switch off and unplug before threading the needle area, changing needles, cleaning the bobbin case or oiling.

Finger guard rule: keep fingers at least 2 cm from the needle path; use a stiletto or awl to guide fabric near the needle instead of fingers.

Never sew over pins; remove each pin 2-3 cm before the needle reaches it, or use clips for thick layers.

Emergency stop: know the location of the on/off switch and the foot pedal release; keep the pedal flat on the floor, not tilted.

Threading order (top): spool pin -> thread guide -> tension discs -> take-up lever -> needle clamp guide -> needle eye, front to back.

Bobbin winding is done with the needle disengaged (clutch released or bobbin winder engaged) so the needle does not move.

Upper tension dial numbers: higher number = more tension on top thread; lower number = less tension. Standard setting for medium fabric is usually 4.

Correct bobbin insertion: thread must pass through the bobbin case slot and under the tension spring, with the bobbin turning clockwise in a front-loading case.

Needle size rule: light fabric 60/8-70/10, medium 80/12-90/14, heavy 100/16-110/18; needle must match both fabric weight and thread weight.

Maintenance schedule: brush lint from bobbin area after every 8 hours of sewing, oil according to manual (typically every 8-16 hours), full service annually.

Lint in the feed dog causes skipped stitches and fabric jams; remove the throat plate and clean with a brush, never a pin.

After oiling, run the machine on scrap fabric for 30 seconds to absorb excess oil before sewing the garment.

Lockstitch (301) is the standard straight stitch; it uses two threads and locks in the middle of the fabric layers.

Stitch length is set in mm: 2.0-2.5 mm for light fabric, 2.5-3.0 mm for medium, 3.0-4.0 mm for heavy fabric and topstitching.

Basting stitch: longest length (4-5 mm) for temporary joining; remove after final stitching.

Zigzag stitch width and length are set separately; use for knits, buttonholes, overcasting raw edges and appliqué.

Tension diagnosis: loops on the underside = top tension too loose or bobbin tension too loose; loops on top = top tension too tight or bobbin too tight.

Balanced stitch test: sew on a scrap of the same fabric and thread; the knot should sit inside the fabric, not on either surface.

Reverse stitch 3-4 stitches at the start and end of every seam to lock the thread; do not reverse over the same spot more than twice.

Gathering: sew two parallel rows at 4-5 mm length with loose tension, then pull the bobbin threads to draw up evenly.

Body measurements needed: bust/chest, waist, hip, shoulder width, back length, sleeve length, inseam; take over light clothing with tape parallel to floor.

Grain line on pattern must be parallel to the selvedge; measure the distance at both ends of the grain line arrow and match.

Fold line on pattern = place on fabric fold; cut through both layers, do not cut the fold.

Layout rule: place largest pattern pieces first, then smaller pieces in gaps; keep all pieces on the same grain direction unless the pattern states otherwise.

Notches on pattern edges must be transferred to fabric with chalk or snips (2 mm) to align seams during sewing.

Seam allowance: standard 1.5 cm (5/8 inch) for garments; 1 cm for necklines and armholes unless pattern states otherwise.

Marking tools: tailor's chalk for dark fabric, chalk pencil for light fabric, tracing wheel and carbon for accurate transfer, tailor's tacks for delicate fabric.

Measure twice, cut once: verify all pattern pieces and grain before cutting; fabric cannot be uncut.

Shears vs scissors: shears have angled handles for fabric (keep flat on table); scissors have straight handles for paper and thread only.

Keep fabric shears sharp and reserved for fabric; cutting paper dulls the blades.

Cut with long, smooth strokes; keep the lower blade flat on the table and the fabric flat, not lifted.

Cutting order: cut largest pieces first, then smaller pieces; cut notches outward, never inward into the seam allowance.

Rotary cutter: use with a self-healing mat and acrylic ruler; always cut away from the body and close the blade guard when not in use.

Pinking shears cut a zigzag edge to reduce fraying on woven fabric; not a substitute for a seam finish on loose weaves.

Fabric handling: support the weight of the fabric with your hands or table; never pull fabric through the machine, let the feed dog move it.

Pins: place pins perpendicular to the seam line or parallel within the seam allowance; remove before the needle reaches them.

Running stitch: small even stitches (2-3 mm) on both sides; used for gathering, basting and simple seams.

Backstitch: strong hand seam; insert needle behind the previous stitch, making overlapping stitches; used where machine is unavailable.

Blanket stitch: worked along the edge to finish raw edges of thick fabric or attach appliqué.

Slip stitch (blind hem by hand): pick up one thread of the garment and 2-3 mm of the hem fold; invisible on the right side.

Standard seam: right sides together, stitch 1.5 cm from edge, press seam open or to one side; finish raw edges with zigzag or overcasting.

French seam: enclose raw edges inside; sew 6 mm wrong sides together, trim to 3 mm, turn and sew 6 mm; for light fabric.

Flat-fell seam: strong seam for jeans and workwear; one edge is folded over the other and stitched twice.

Hem allowance: 2.5-4 cm for skirts and trousers, 1-1.5 cm for sleeves and light fabric; press hem before stitching.

Grain types: lengthwise grain (warp) runs parallel to selvedge and is strongest; crosswise grain (weft) runs perpendicular; bias runs at 45 degrees and has the most stretch.

Selvedge is the finished edge of the fabric; it does not fray and indicates the lengthwise grain direction.

Natural fibres (cotton, linen, silk, wool) shrink more than synthetics; pre-wash and dry fabric before cutting to prevent post-sewing shrinkage.

Cotton can shrink 3-10% in hot water; linen 4-8%; wool shrinks and felts with heat and agitation; synthetics usually shrink under 2%.

Test shrinkage: cut a 10 cm square, wash and dry as the finished garment will be, measure again; calculate percentage change.

Knits stretch across the width; use a ballpoint or stretch needle, zigzag or overlock stitch, and a stretch stitch length of 2.0-2.5 mm.

Fabric weight guide: light (chiffon, voile), medium (poplin, linen), heavy (denim, canvas); needle and thread size must match weight.

Nap and pile fabrics (corduroy, velvet) must be cut in one direction; all pattern pieces face the same way.

Ergonomic chair height: seat at knee height, feet flat on the floor, thighs horizontal, elbows at 90 degrees when sewing.

Table height rule: machine bed at elbow height or 2-5 cm below; adjust with a raised platform if needed.

Divyang accessibility: use a machine with a large on/off switch, tactile markings on controls, and a foot pedal that can be replaced by a hand control or knee lever.

For wheelchair users, ensure clear floor space of at least 90 cm behind and beside the machine for turning and reaching; keep the work surface at a reachable height.

Lighting: 500-750 lux at the needle area, with the light source in front of or above the worker, not behind, to avoid shadow.

Repetitive strain prevention: take a 5-minute break every 45-60 minutes; stretch hands, wrists and shoulders.

Electrical safety: keep cords away from walkways, never use a machine with a damaged cord, and keep liquids away from the machine.

Sharp tool storage: keep scissors, rotary cutters and pins in a closed container or sheath when not in use; count pins before and after each task.

Quality check points: fabric grain, cutting accuracy, stitch length, seam allowance, tension balance, seam strength, hem evenness, thread trimming.

Seam strength test: pull the seam firmly across the seam line; it should not open or break; re-stitch if it fails.

Stitch density check: count stitches per inch (SPI); standard is 10-12 SPI for medium fabric, 12-14 SPI for light fabric.

Production record fields: date, style number, operation, quantity completed, quantity rejected, defect type, operator name or ID.

Defect categories: skipped stitches, puckering, uneven hem, loose thread, wrong seam allowance, needle marks, oil stains.

Daily machine check before production: needle condition, bobbin thread, tension test on scrap, lint removal, oil level.

First-piece approval: sew one complete unit and check against the specification before starting the full batch.

Traceability: label each bundle with style, size, quantity and operator; keep records for at least the production cycle for audit.