Maharashtra SSC Stitching with Sewing Machine Divyang key terms

The large wheel on the right of the machine head that the operator turns by hand to raise or lower the needle slowly. Turning it toward you is the safe direction and lets you position the needle without using the motor.

The small metal foot that holds the fabric flat against the feed dogs while stitching. It must be lowered before sewing and raised to slide fabric in or out, and different feet suit zips, buttonholes or quilting.

The toothed metal strips under the needle plate that grip the fabric and move it forward a set distance with each stitch. Their height and position control how evenly the fabric feeds, especially on thin or stretchy material.

The flat metal plate covering the bobbin area, with a small hole for the needle and slots for the feed dogs. It supports the fabric, and a burr or wrong plate can cause skipped stitches or needle breakage.

The lever on the front of the machine that rises and falls with the needle and pulls thread from the spool to form each stitch. The needle must be at its highest point before threading or removing work.

The small spool of lower thread and the holder it sits in beneath the needle plate. The bobbin must be wound evenly and inserted the correct way round, or the stitch will loop and jam.

The pair of metal plates on the thread path that grip the upper thread and control how tightly it is pulled. Turning the tension dial changes the pressure, and the setting should match the thread and fabric.

The fixed route the upper thread follows from spool to needle, through guides, tension discs and the take-up lever. Missing one guide causes loops, tangles or skipped stitches, so the path is followed in order every time.

Filling the bobbin evenly with lower thread using the winder, with the thread guided under the tension plate. A loosely or unevenly wound bobbin produces poor stitches and can jam the bobbin case.

The distance the fabric moves between needle penetrations, set on a dial or lever in millimetres. Short stitches suit fine fabric and reinforcement, long stitches suit basting and heavy fabric.

The grip applied to the top thread by the tension discs, adjusted by a numbered dial. Too tight pulls the lower thread up; too loose lets the upper thread loop underneath the fabric.

The slight drag set on the lower thread by the small screw on the bobbin case. It is usually left alone once correct; adjusting it wrongly causes puckering or loose stitches underneath.

A check made by stitching on a scrap of the actual fabric and inspecting both sides. Loops on top mean upper tension is too loose; loops underneath mean it is too tight, so the dial is adjusted before real work.

The basic machine stitch where upper and lower threads interlock inside the fabric, holding from both sides. Most garment seams use it, and it unravels from one end if not backstitched.

Two or three reverse stitches sewn at the start and end of a seam to lock the threads so the seam does not open. On machines without reverse, the work is turned and stitched back over itself.

The direction of the warp threads running parallel to the selvedge, marked on patterns as a long arrow. Laying pattern pieces on grain keeps garments hanging straight and stops twisting after washing.

The firmly woven edge of a fabric running its full length, which does not fray. It marks the lengthwise grain and is usually excluded from cutting because it can pucker the seam.

The diagonal direction of a woven fabric at about 45 degrees to the grain, which stretches most. Bias-cut pieces drape well but distort easily, so they are handled gently and not pulled during sewing.

The planned arrangement of pattern pieces on the fabric so that grain lines, fold lines and nap match and waste is minimal. It is done before any cutting, with pieces pinned flat and checked twice.

A small mark cut into the seam allowance or the pattern edge to show where two pieces join. Matching notches during sewing keeps edges aligned and prevents one side stretching past the other.

The strip of fabric between the stitching line and the raw edge, commonly 1 to 1.5 cm. It must be measured and marked accurately, and it is trimmed or finished after stitching.

The outer line on a pattern piece, outside the stitching line, along which the fabric is cut. Cutting exactly on it, with long smooth scissor strokes, keeps the finished size correct.

Long-bladed cutting tools with bent handles, kept sharp and used only for fabric. They are held with the blade flat on the table, cutting in long strokes so the lower blade stays on the cloth.

Scissors with zigzag blades that cut a saw-tooth edge, used to reduce fraying on woven seam allowances. They are not a substitute for proper seam finishing on fabrics that fray badly.

A wheel-shaped blade on a handle that cuts fabric by rolling along a ruler on a self-healing mat. It gives accurate straight cuts and can be pushed with one hand, which suits some workers with limited grip.

A simple hand stitch made by passing the needle in and out of the fabric at even intervals. It is used for gathering, mending and light seams, and is quick but not very strong.

A strong hand stitch where each new stitch goes back into the end of the previous one, forming a continuous line. It looks like machine stitching and is used where a seam must not open.

A near-invisible hand stitch used to join a folded edge to a flat surface, such as a hem. The needle picks up a few threads of the garment and a small bite of the fold, keeping the thread hidden.

A long, easily removed stitch, by hand or machine, that holds layers together temporarily before final sewing. It stops pieces shifting and is pulled out once the permanent stitching is done.

Any treatment of a raw seam edge to stop fraying, such as zigzag stitching, overlocking, pinking or binding. The choice depends on fabric type and on how often the garment will be washed.

The finished lower edge of a garment, made by folding the fabric under and stitching it down. Depth and stitch type vary with fabric and style, and the hem should hang level all round.

A hem where the stitching is almost invisible from the right side, done by machine with a special foot or by hand with slip stitch. It suits formal wear and heavier fabrics that show marks.

The reduction in fabric size after washing, especially in cotton and viscose. Pre-washing or allowing extra length before cutting prevents finished garments from becoming too short.

Washing or steaming fabric before cutting so that most of its shrinkage happens in advance. It is essential for natural-fibre garments that will be washed often, and the fabric must be dried flat.

The distance from selvedge to selvedge, commonly 90 cm, 115 cm or 150 cm. It decides how pattern pieces are laid out and how much fabric must be bought for a garment.

A small shield fitted around the needle area that stops fingers entering the path of the needle. It is a key safety accessory for workers with limited hand control or reduced sensation.

A fixed cover over the motor belt and pulley on the side of the machine head. It must stay in place during running, and any missing guard is reported before work starts.

The practice of switching off and unplugging a machine and marking it so nobody restarts it while it is being cleaned, oiled or repaired. It prevents serious injury from accidental starts.

A sewing place adjusted so the table height, chair, foot pedal and light suit the individual worker. Correct posture and reach reduce strain on the back, neck and shoulders during long shifts.

The treadle that controls motor speed, pressed with the foot. Its position and sensitivity can be adjusted, and for some workers a hand or knee control is fitted instead.

A test piece stitched with the actual fabric, thread and settings before starting a job. It is checked for tension, stitch length and puckering, and kept as a reference for the batch.

The planned inspection of stitched pieces for skipped stitches, puckering, uneven seams, correct size and clean finish. Faults are recorded and corrected before the item moves to the next stage.

The written log of pieces completed, operations done, machine settings used and faults found during a shift. It supports wages, tracing of defects and continuity when another worker takes over.

The short routine before each shift of cleaning lint, oiling marked points, checking the needle and testing the stitch on scrap. It prevents breakdowns and catches faults before production starts.