Maharashtra SSC Stitching with Sewing Machine Divyang flashcards

32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.

Take-up lever

The part that pulls thread from the spool and pushes it back to form a locked stitch; it must be threaded last before the needle and positioned at its highest point before threading.

Feed dog

The toothed metal plate under the presser foot that moves fabric forward by one stitch length per machine revolution; lint buildup here causes skipped stitches and jams.

Presser foot

The metal foot that holds fabric against the feed dog during stitching; it must be raised to insert or remove fabric and lowered before sewing.

Handwheel direction rule

Always rotate the handwheel toward you so the take-up lever rises to its highest point; this prevents thread tangles and needle bending when starting or removing work.

Upper tension dial

The numbered control that adjusts top thread tension; higher numbers increase tension, lower numbers decrease it, and medium fabric usually needs a setting near 4.

Bobbin winding procedure

Wind thread from the spool onto the bobbin with the needle disengaged or the bobbin winder engaged, so the needle does not move while the bobbin fills evenly.

Needle size chart

Match needle to fabric: 60/8-70/10 for light fabric, 80/12-90/14 for medium, 100/16-110/18 for heavy fabric, and match needle to thread weight as well.

Lint cleaning schedule

Brush lint from the bobbin area and feed dog after every 8 hours of sewing; oil according to the manual, typically every 8-16 hours, and service annually.

Lockstitch 301

The standard two-thread straight stitch that locks in the middle of the fabric layers; it is the most common stitch for garment seams on a domestic sewing machine.

Stitch length by fabric

Set stitch length in millimetres: 2.0-2.5 mm for light fabric, 2.5-3.0 mm for medium, 3.0-4.0 mm for heavy fabric and topstitching.

Tension diagnosis rule

Loops on the underside mean top tension is too loose; loops on top mean top tension is too tight; balance by testing on a scrap of the same fabric.

Reverse stitch locking

Sew 3-4 reverse stitches at the start and end of each seam to lock the thread; do not reverse over the same spot more than twice or the fabric may tear.

Grain line on pattern

The arrow on a pattern piece that must be placed parallel to the selvedge; measure the distance at both ends of the arrow and match them.

Seam allowance standard

The distance from the cut edge to the stitch line; standard is 1.5 cm (5/8 inch) for garments and 1 cm for necklines and armholes unless the pattern states otherwise.

Notch transfer

Small marks on pattern edges that must be transferred to fabric with chalk or 2 mm snips so matching pieces align correctly during sewing.

Body measurement list

Measure bust or chest, waist, hip, shoulder width, back length, sleeve length and inseam over light clothing with the tape parallel to the floor.

Shears versus scissors

Shears have angled handles and are kept flat on the table for cutting fabric; scissors have straight handles and are used only for paper and thread.

Rotary cutter safety

Use a rotary cutter with a self-healing mat and acrylic ruler, always cut away from the body, and close the blade guard when the cutter is not in use.

Pinking shears use

Shears that cut a zigzag edge to reduce fraying on woven fabric; they are not a substitute for a proper seam finish on loose weaves.

Fabric feeding rule

Guide fabric with your hands but never pull it through the machine; let the feed dog move it, or the needle bends and the stitch length becomes uneven.

Backstitch

A strong hand stitch made by inserting the needle behind the previous stitch so the stitches overlap; used where a machine seam is not possible.

Slip stitch hem

A blind hand hem where the needle picks up one thread of the garment and 2-3 mm of the hem fold, making the stitch invisible on the right side.

French seam

A seam that encloses raw edges inside: sew 6 mm wrong sides together, trim to 3 mm, turn, and sew 6 mm again; suitable for light fabric.

Flat-fell seam

A strong seam where one edge is folded over the other and stitched twice; used for jeans, workwear and other heavy-wear garments.

Bias grain

The direction at 45 degrees to the selvedge; it has the most stretch of any grain direction and is used for binding and draping garments.

Lengthwise grain

The warp direction running parallel to the selvedge; it is the strongest grain and pattern grain lines are usually placed along it.

Shrinkage test

Cut a 10 cm square, wash and dry it as the finished garment will be, measure again, and calculate the percentage change before cutting the garment.

Nap fabric layout

Corduroy, velvet and other pile fabrics must be cut with all pattern pieces facing the same direction so the shade and pile look uniform.

Elbow height rule

Set the machine bed at elbow height or 2-5 cm below it, with the chair at knee height, feet flat, thighs horizontal and elbows at 90 degrees.

Accessible machine controls

For Divyang workers, choose machines with large on/off switches, tactile control markings, and a foot pedal that can be replaced by hand or knee controls.

Needle-area lighting

Provide 500-750 lux at the needle area with the light in front of or above the worker, not behind, so the hands do not cast a shadow on the stitching.

Stitches per inch check

Count stitches per inch (SPI) to verify quality: 10-12 SPI for medium fabric and 12-14 SPI for light fabric are standard targets.