Measuring, Marking and Pattern Layout on Fabric
What the exam tests
Taking body measurements, marking accurately, and placing pattern pieces so the garment hangs correctly. Questions test grainline, fold line, seam allowance and layout economy.
Measuring and marking
Use a non-stretch tape; keep it level and snug, not tight. Record bust/chest, waist, hip, shoulder, sleeve length and garment length. Mark on the wrong side with tailor's chalk, a disappearing pen, or a tracing wheel and carbon. Mark darts, notches, buttonholes and pocket placement before removing the pattern.
Layout rules
- The grainline arrow must run parallel to the selvedge, checked at both ends.
- Pieces marked "place on fold" go exactly on the folded edge, never 1 cm away.
- Lay right sides together, place larger pieces first, and keep all pieces in one direction on napped or one-way prints.
- Add seam allowance 1.5 cm on most seams, 2.5-5 cm for hems, plus extra where the pattern states.
- Match checks and stripes at the seam line, not the cut edge.
Worked example
A kurti front piece is 60 cm long and needs a 1.5 cm shoulder seam, 2.5 cm hem and 5% shrinkage allowance on 200 cm of cotton. Reasoning: add 1.5 + 2.5 = 4 cm for seams, then 5% of 60 = 3 cm, giving 67 cm. Lay the longest pieces along the lengthwise grain to save fabric.
Traps
Ignoring the grainline so the garment twists; cutting a fold piece as two pieces; marking on the right side; forgetting shrinkage; pinning diagonally across the seam line; cutting notches inward instead of outward.