Hand Stitches, Seams, Hems and Finishing
What the exam tests
Neat hand stitches, the right seam for the fabric and purpose, and finishing that survives washing.
Hand stitches
Running stitch is a short even stitch for gathering and tacking. Backstitch is strong and resembles machine stitching. Blanket stitch neatens raw edges and works buttonholes. Slip or hemming stitch takes a tiny bite of the garment and a longer bite of the hem allowance. Whip stitch joins felt and overcasts edges. Tacking (basting) holds layers before machine sewing and is removed afterwards.
Seams
Plain seam: right sides together, 1.5 cm allowance, backstitch at both ends, press open. French seam encloses raw edges and suits fine fabric: sew 0.6 cm wrong sides together, trim, turn, sew 0.6 cm. Flat fell is strong for shirts and pyjamas. Overlock or zigzag the raw edges of a plain seam.
Hems and finishing
Double-fold hem: fold 1 cm, then 2-3 cm, stitch close to the fold. Blind hem by machine for a nearly invisible finish. Stay-stitch a neckline 1.2 cm from the edge before handling. Clip inside curves, notch outside corners, and press each seam before crossing it.
Worked example
A neckline gapes after attaching the facing. Reasoning: the bias edge stretched during sewing. Fix: stay-stitch first, sew with the facing underneath, understitch the facing to the seam allowance, and press.
Traps
No backstitch at seam ends; trimming before pressing; clipping through the stitching; uneven hem width; leaving tacking threads in the finished garment.