Pattern Making, Measurements and Marker Layout
What this domain tests
How a pattern is drafted, how body measurements and ease are handled, what a pattern piece must carry, and how markers are laid and evaluated for efficiency.
Core rules
- Drafting builds the pattern flat from measurements plus ease; draping shapes fabric on a dress form.
- Measure over well-fitting undergarments, tape snug but not tight: chest/bust, waist, hip, shoulder width, sleeve length, inseam, garment length.
- Ease = wearing ease (movement) + design ease (silhouette).
- Seam allowance: 1 cm on general seams, 1.5–2.5 cm at hems, about 6 mm on curves and necklines.
- Every production pattern piece carries: grain line arrow, notches, darts, style and size, piece name, cut quantity, and seam allowance.
- Grain line runs parallel to centre front/back; cutting off-grain causes twisting and garment drop.
- Marker constraints: fabric width, grain, one-way/nap designs, check and stripe matching, size ratio in the lay.
Worked example
A marker is 1.5 m wide and 4 m long = 6.0 m². Pattern pieces total 5.1 m². Efficiency = 5.1 ÷ 6.0 × 100 = 85%. If the order changes to include more large sizes, the pieces nest less well and efficiency falls; if a one-way print forces all pieces in one direction, efficiency also falls. That reasoning is what earns the second mark, not the arithmetic.
Traps that cost marks
- Reporting marker efficiency without the percentage step.
- Forgetting that seam allowance is added to the pattern, not to the body measurement.
- Laying pieces off-grain to raise efficiency - never acceptable.
- Mixing up notches (alignment) with darts (shape).