Cutting, Stitching and Construction Techniques; Seams, Hems and Finishes
What this domain tests
Cutting-room sequence, stitch classes and seam/heam types, and the ability to choose the right construction for a given fabric and product.
Cutting and stitching
- Sequence: marker → spreading/laying → cutting → numbering and bundling → fusing/trims.
- Cutting tools: shears, rotary cutter, straight-knife machine, band-knife, die clicker. Ply height is limited by the knife and by fabric thickness and slip.
- Stitch classes: 301 lockstitch (straight, two threads), 401 chainstitch (extensible), 504 three-thread overlock (edge neatening plus seaming on knits), 406 coverstitch (knit hems).
Seams and hems
- Superimposed/plain seam: universal, needs edge neatening.
- French seam: self-neatening, light fabrics, sheer garments.
- Flat-fell seam: strong, bulky, used on denim and workwear.
- Lapped and bound seams: bound finishes enclose raw edges on unlined jackets and lingerie.
- Hems: plain turned hem, blind hem (blindstitch machine), rolled hem on fine fabrics.
Worked example
A cotton voile shirt is specified with a French seam. Reasoning: voile is lightweight and semi-sheer, so an overlocked plain seam shows through and frays; a French seam encloses both raw edges inside the seam tunnel and gives a clean inside. On 14 oz denim, however, a French seam would be too bulky - flat-fell is correct. The fabric weight drives the answer.
Traps that cost marks
- Treating the overlock as a seam type; it is a stitch and edge finish.
- Specifying French seams on thick denim or curved armholes.
- Confusing stitch class (301, 504) with seam type (plain, French, flat-fell).
- Cutting too many plies for the knife, causing shade and size mismatch in the bundle.