RBSE SS Voc Apparel cheat sheet

Apparel value chain order: fibre → yarn → fabric → garment → retail; each stage adds cost and employment, with garment assembly being the most labour-intensive stage.

Sector segments: haute couture (made-to-measure, one-off), ready-to-wear (standardised sizes), mass production (large volume, low cost), and institutional/uniform production (specification-driven).

Career tracks divide into creative (design, illustration, surface ornamentation), technical (pattern making, grading, CAD, quality), production (line supervision, industrial engineering, maintenance) and commercial (merchandising, costing, marketing, sourcing).

Indian apparel industry institutions and schemes to cite: Apparel Training and Design Centres (ATDC), National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), and skill councils for apparel sector training.

Job roles by department: sampling/pattern room (pattern master, grader), cutting (cutting master, spreader), sewing floor (operator, line supervisor, mechanic), finishing (checker, presser, packer).

An apparel unit's capacity is usually expressed in pieces per day per line or in minutes (Standard Allowed Minutes) rather than garments per worker.

Merchandiser's core documents: tech pack, bill of materials, cost sheet, time and action calendar, and pre-production sample approval record.

Fibre classification: natural (cotton, linen, wool, silk) vs man-made (regenerated such as viscose and lyocell; synthetic such as polyester, nylon, acrylic, spandex).

Cotton: cellulose, moisture regain about 8.5%, good absorbency and comfort, low elasticity, weaker when wet; burns with a paper smell and grey ash.

Wool: protein (keratin), scales give felting and warmth, moisture regain about 13-16%, weaker when wet, burns with a burnt-hair smell and crushable black ash.

Silk: protein filament, high lustre and strength, moisture regain about 11%, burns like wool with a burnt-hair smell.

Polyester: synthetic, low moisture regain (about 0.4%), high strength, thermoplastic, melts and shrinks away from flame with a black bead.

Yarn count systems: direct systems (tex, denier - weight per fixed length, higher number = coarser) vs indirect systems (Ne cotton count - length per fixed weight, higher number = finer).

Twist direction: S-twist and Z-twist; higher twist gives a stronger, leaner yarn with less lustre and softer hand at low twist.

Yarn types: single, plied, cabled, folded; staple-spun (carded, combed) vs filament; slub, bouclé and mélange are effect yarns.

Woven fabric is formed by interlacing warp (lengthwise, higher tension) and weft (crosswise); ends per inch and picks per inch define fabric density.

Three basic weaves: plain (over-one-under-one, strongest and firmest, e.g. poplin, calico), twill (diagonal line, e.g. denim, gabardine), satin (floats give lustre and a smooth face).

Derivative weaves: rib and basket from plain; herringbone, zigzag and steep twills from twill; sateen and satin stripe from satin; dobby and jacquard produce figured designs.

Knitted fabrics: weft knit (single jersey, rib, interlock - stretchy, curling edges) vs warp knit (tricot, raschel - more stable, less laddering).

Non-woven fabrics are bonded by mechanical (needle punch), thermal or chemical means; they have no yarn direction and are used for interlinings and disposables.

Preparatory finishes: singeing, desizing, scouring, bleaching, mercerising (increases cotton lustre, strength and dye uptake).

Functional finishes: calendering, sanforising (shrinkage control), resin/crease-resist, water-repellent, flame-retardant, anti-microbial, peach finish, and enzyme bio-polishing.

Pattern types: block or sloper (basic fitting shell), working pattern (with seam allowance and notches), and production pattern (graded, with grain line, drill holes and style details).

Drafting sequence: take body measurements → establish construction lines → mark key points → draw curves → add seam allowance → true the seams and walk the pattern.

Essential pattern markings: grain line (parallel to centre front), notches for matching, drill holes for pocket and dart points, fold line, and balance marks.

Dart manipulation principles: a dart can be moved to any position around the block without changing fit, provided the pivot point stays fixed and the total intake is preserved.

Grading is systematic size increment from a base size using grade rules per measurement point; it is not proportional scaling of the whole pattern.

Seam allowance conventions: 1 cm on most seams, 1.5-2 cm on hems; 6 mm on enclosed curves; seam allowance is added after the net pattern is trued.

Muslin/toile fitting checks: balance, ease, grain alignment, dart position, neckline and armhole fit, and drag lines that reveal where the pattern is tight.

Stitch classes (ISO 4915): 301 lockstitch (straight, two threads), 401 two-thread chain stitch (stretch seams), 504 overedge (3-thread safety stitch edge), 516 (4-thread overedge).

Seam classes (ISO 4916): superimposed (plain, French, flat-felled), lapped (lap felled), bound (bias bound), and edge-finished seams.

Lockstitch machine: needle, bobbin, hook, feed dog, presser foot, tension discs; stitch length is set by feed dog movement and stitch density is stitches per inch.

Overlock machine trims the edge and sews simultaneously; differential feed prevents wavy or puckered seams on knits.

Special machines: bartack (stress points), buttonhole, blind hem, coverstitch (flat hem on knits), feed-of-the-arm (sleeve seams), and embroidery machines.

Common defects: skipped stitches (needle or timing), puckering (tension or feed), needle cutting (needle too large for fabric), and seam slippage (insufficient seam allowance).

Needle and thread selection rule: finer needle and finer thread for lightweight fabric; thread should be no more than about the size that fills the needle groove without crowding.

Embroidery types: hand (kantha, chikankari, phulkari, zardosi), machine (multi-head computerised), and free-motion; digitised designs use stitch types such as running, satin and fill.

Beadwork, sequins, mirror work and appliqué are attached after embroidery base; appliqué requires a placement outline, tacking and edge finishing by satin stitch or blanket stitch.

Tie-and-dye and batik are resist techniques: tie-and-dye uses binding, batik uses wax resist; both produce irregular patterning that cannot be exactly repeated.

Block printing, screen printing and digital printing differ in repeat accuracy and colour depth; screen printing needs one screen per colour.

Quilting, smocking, pleating, tucking and ruffles are structural surface techniques that add texture and also change fit or fabric consumption.

Fabric painting and fabric embellishment with stones or studs need heat or adhesive fixation; incorrect temperature damages synthetic fibres.

Embellishment adds weight and stiffness, so pattern ease and seam allowances may need adjustment, and care labelling must reflect the trims used.

Design elements: line, shape, colour, texture, space; design principles: balance, rhythm, proportion, emphasis, harmony and unity.

Silhouette families: A-line, H-line (straight), Y-line, bustle/tulip, bell and empire; silhouette is described by the outer outline, not by details.

Repeat types for printed fabric: straight repeat, half-drop, brick, mirror and tossed; repeat size must divide into the fabric width and the garment panel.

Fabric selection criteria: end use, drape, hand, weight (GSM), shrinkage, colour fastness, cost and available width.

Trims and supporting materials: interlining, lining, fusible, shoulder pads, zips, buttons, elastic and labels; each adds cost and must be listed in the bill of materials.

Design development sequence: research → mood board → sketches → fabric and trim selection → technical drawing → sample → fit approval → production.

Fabric width and layout affect design feasibility: directional prints and napped fabrics such as corduroy require all pattern pieces to be cut in one direction.

Colour dimensions: hue (name), value (lightness/darkness), saturation or chroma (intensity); tints add white, shades add black, tones add grey.

Colour wheel relationships: complementary (opposite, high contrast), analogous (adjacent, harmonious), triadic (three evenly spaced), and monochromatic (one hue, varied value).

Colour rendering methods: poster colour and gouache for flat, opaque fashion flats; watercolour and marker for drape and shadow; digital tools for repeat and colourway variation.

Fashion figure proportions in illustration are elongated (often 9 heads) while the technical flat is drawn to real garment proportions with no figure.

Technical flat conventions: front and back views, seam lines, topstitching, buttons, zips and trims drawn to scale, with callouts for colour and fabric.

Colour fastness terms: light fastness, wash fastness, rubbing (crocking) fastness, perspiration fastness; each is graded on a 1-5 grey scale.

Colourway development means producing the same design in several colour combinations; it must be recorded on the colour card with Pantone or lab-dip references.

Production systems: progressive bundle system (bundles move between operators), unit production system (overhead transport), and modular or team sewing (whole garment by a team).

Operation breakdown splits a garment into sequenced operations with standard time; line balancing assigns operations to machines so cycle times match the bottleneck.

SAM (Standard Allowed Minute) is the time for a qualified operator to perform an operation at defined performance level; efficiency = (earned minutes ÷ attended minutes) × 100.

Quality control points: fabric inspection (4-point system), cutting (marker accuracy, ply count), sewing in-line checks, end-line inspection, and final AQL sampling.

AQL sampling uses tables to accept or reject a lot from a sample size and accept/reject numbers; it does not guarantee zero defects.

Common garment defects: measurement out of tolerance, shade variation, puckering, skipped stitches, misaligned plackets, oil stains and loose threads.

Preventive maintenance: daily needle and oil checks, scheduled hook timing and tension calibration, and machine logbooks to reduce downtime and repairs.

Cost sheet structure: fabric cost (consumption × rate) + trims + cutting + sewing (SAM × minute cost) + finishing + packing + overheads + rejection allowance + profit margin.

Fabric consumption is calculated from marker length × marker width; add wastage allowance for matching, cutting and end loss (typically a few percent).

Break-even quantity = fixed cost ÷ (selling price per unit − variable cost per unit); it shows the volume needed before profit begins.

Pricing methods: cost-plus (markup on cost), competitive (market rate), and value-based (perceived value); export pricing must include freight, duty and commission.

Marketing mix for apparel: product (style, size range, quality), price, place (channel), promotion; branding and private label are common strategies.

Business registration and compliance for a small unit: Udyam/MSME registration, GST registration, factory licence where applicable, and labour law records.

Sampling stages: proto sample, fit sample, size-set sample, sales sample, pre-production sample and shipment sample; each has an approval purpose.

Machine guarding: needle guard, eye guard, belt and pulley guards, and puller guards must be in place; loose clothing and long hair are hazards near rotating parts.

Electrical safety: earthing of machines, RCCB/ELCB protection, no daisy-chained extension boards, and lockout before maintenance.

Ergonomic controls: adjustable chair and table height, footrest, anti-fatigue mat, micro-breaks, and correct posture to reduce musculoskeletal disorders.

Fire safety: clearly marked exits, extinguishers matched to the fire class, no blocked aisles, and periodic evacuation drills.

Chemical and dye safety: Material Safety Data Sheets, gloves and eye protection, ventilation, and separate storage of dyes and solvents.

Hygiene in the workplace: clean drinking water, hand-wash stations, sanitation, canteen and crèche facilities, and first-aid boxes as per factory rules.

Environmental practices: effluent treatment before discharge, water and energy conservation, waste segregation, and reuse of fabric scraps; restricted substances lists apply to dyes and finishes.

Portfolio contents: mood board, research pages, technical flats, colour card, fabric swatches, pattern pieces, construction samples, final garment photographs and evaluation.

Sample construction sequence for a project garment: measurements → draft block → true and add seam allowance → toile → fit correction → final fabric cutting → stitching → finishing → inspection.

Documentation standard: label every swatch and sample with fibre content, weave/knit, finish, source and date; keep a cost sheet with each project.

Assessment criteria commonly used: accuracy of drafting, quality of seams and finish, creativity, neatness of presentation, and understanding shown in the viva.

Fabric swatch testing at project level: burn test for fibre identification, shrinkage test by washing a marked square, and colour fastness by rubbing with white cloth.

Record of practicals should include machine settings used (stitch length, needle size, thread type) so results can be repeated.

Photograph the garment on a stand or model from front, back and detail views; flat-lay photographs supplement but do not replace on-body shots.