RBSE SS Voc Apparel key terms

Finished clothing and accessories made from fabric and worn by people. The term covers garments produced in factories as well as custom-made items, and distinguishes wearable goods from other textile products such as home furnishings.

Clothing manufactured in standard sizes and sold finished from stock rather than made to a customer's measurements. Production follows size charts and grading rules, so quality control and consistency across sizes are central concerns.

One-off, hand-made garments created to a client's individual measurements by a design house. The work is labour-intensive and uses fine hand finishing, so it differs sharply from mass production in method, cost and scale.

A fibre of limited, relatively short length, such as cotton, wool or cut manufactured fibre. Staple fibres must be twisted together to form a yarn, and their length and fineness strongly affect yarn strength and fabric handle.

A continuous fibre of indefinite length, naturally produced by silkworms or extruded through spinnerets in manufactured fibres. Filaments can be used as single strands or cut into staple, and they give smooth, lustrous yarns.

A unit expressing the linear density of filament yarn, equal to the mass in grams of 9,000 metres of yarn. A higher denier means a thicker filament; fine hosiery yarns may be under 20 denier.

A number describing yarn thickness or fineness. Direct systems give mass per fixed length, while indirect systems such as cotton count give length per fixed mass, so a higher indirect count means a finer yarn.

The spiral winding of fibres around a yarn's axis, usually stated as turns per metre and as S or Z direction. More twist gives a stronger, harder yarn; too little twist leaves the yarn weak and liable to fray.

A fibre identification method in which a small sample is ignited and its flame behaviour, odour and residue are observed. Cellulosic fibres smell of burning paper and leave ash, while protein fibres smell of burnt hair and form crushable beads.

The two yarn sets in woven fabric. Warp yarns run lengthwise and are stronger and more tightly tensioned; weft yarns run across the width and are inserted over and under the warp during weaving.

The simplest interlacing, where each weft yarn passes alternately over and under each warp yarn. It produces a firm, flat, reversible fabric such as calico or poplin and gives the maximum number of interlacings per unit area.

A weave producing diagonal lines on the fabric face because weft yarns float over two or more warp yarns in a stepped progression. Denim and gabardine are twills; the float makes them stronger and more drapeable than plain weave.

A weave in which weft yarns float over four or more warp yarns before interlacing, creating a smooth, lustrous face and a dull back. Long floats make the fabric prone to snagging and abrasion damage.

The firmly woven, non-fraying edge running along both lengthwise sides of a woven fabric. It marks the warp direction and is normally excluded from pattern pieces because its tight structure can cause seam puckering.

Grams per square metre, a measure of fabric weight. It guides fabric selection for a garment type: light fabrics around 100 GSM suit shirts, while 300 GSM and above suits coats and heavy trousers.

Loss of fabric dimensions after washing or pressing, caused by relaxation of yarn stresses or by fibre swelling. Fabrics must be pre-shrunk or patterns compensated, otherwise finished garments will not match the size chart.

Constructing a pattern from body measurements using calculated rules rather than adapting an existing block. It allows a designer to create any style from first principles and is the basis of accurate custom fit.

A close-fitting, un-styled pattern for a bodice, sleeve or skirt, developed from standard measurements. Designers add ease and style lines to a block to create new patterns instead of drafting from scratch each time.

Systematically increasing or decreasing a pattern's dimensions to produce a range of sizes from one sample size. Grading rules differ by body area, so the grade increment for a chest is not the same as for a sleeve length.

A marked arrow on a pattern piece showing the direction in which it must be laid on the fabric, usually parallel to the selvedge. Ignoring it causes garment twist and poor drape after washing.

A trial garment made in inexpensive plain cotton to test the fit and design of a pattern before cutting the final fabric. Fitting corrections marked on the muslin are transferred back to the paper pattern.

The extra fabric left beyond the stitching line so the seam can be joined and finished. It is added to pattern edges, typically 1 to 1.5 cm, and must be consistent for accurate assembly.

A stitch formed by one or more needles and loopers that joins edges while enclosing them to prevent fraying. Overlocking is the standard edge finish on knitwear and on most mass-produced woven garments.

The number of stitches per unit length, usually expressed as stitches per inch or per centimetre. Too few stitches give weak seams; too many cause thread breakage, puckering and needle heating on dense fabrics.

The most common sewing machine, forming a stitch with a needle thread and a bobbin thread that interlock inside the fabric. It produces strong, two-sided seams and is used for most woven garment construction.

Decorative stitching applied to a fabric surface, worked by hand or by computerised multi-head machines. It adds texture, colour and perceived value, and digitised designs must be tested for pull and registration before bulk runs.

A decorative technique in which a cut shape of fabric is stitched onto a base fabric, often with a satin or blanket stitch around the edge. Raw edges must be secured to prevent fraying after washing.

Surface decoration using small shiny discs attached by hand or machine to create sparkle and movement. Attachment must be secure enough to survive wear and laundering, and sequins can restrict fabric drape.

A printing method in which ink is pushed through a mesh stencil onto fabric, one screen per colour. It suits bold designs on large runs, and correct curing of the ink is essential for wash fastness.

A circular arrangement of hues used to plan colour schemes. It shows primary, secondary and tertiary colours and helps designers choose harmonious, complementary or analogous combinations for a collection.

A visual collection of images, swatches, textures and words that communicates the feeling and direction of a design theme. It guides silhouette, palette and fabric choices before sketching begins.

A precise, scaled, front-and-back line drawing of a garment showing seams, closures, topstitching and trims. It communicates construction detail to pattern makers and production teams without artistic distortion.

A production document containing technical flats, measurements, materials, colourways, construction notes and labelling requirements. It is the reference used by sampling rooms and factories to produce a garment to specification.

A table of body or garment measurements assigned to each size in a range. It defines the grading increments and is the reference against which production samples and finished garments are measured for approval.

The permitted range of variation around a specified measurement or quality characteristic. A garment within tolerance is accepted; consistent drift beyond tolerance signals a machine, operator or fabric problem needing correction.

The resistance of a dyed or printed fabric to colour loss or transfer during washing, rubbing, light exposure or perspiration. Poor fastness causes bleeding and staining, and it is a routine laboratory test before bulk production.

A document that itemises all costs of producing an order, including fabric, trims, labour, overheads and packing, to arrive at cost per garment. It supports pricing, margin decisions and negotiation with buyers.

Producing a small number of trial garments before bulk manufacture to confirm fit, fabric, colour and construction. Buyer approval of a sample, often after several revisions, authorises the factory to begin production.

Items worn to reduce workplace injury, such as needle guards, finger guards, masks and protective footwear. Employers must provide suitable PPE and train workers in its correct use and maintenance.

Designing workstations, seating and tasks to fit the human body and reduce strain. In apparel units, correct table height, adjustable chairs and planned breaks help prevent musculoskeletal disorders among sewing operators.

The process of cleaning wastewater from dyeing, printing and washing before it is released. Treatment removes dyes, chemicals and suspended solids so that discharge meets legal limits and does not pollute local water.

A document supplied with a chemical that lists its hazards, safe handling, storage and first-aid measures. It must be available to workers using dyes, solvents or finishing agents in the textile and garment unit.

An organised collection of a candidate's design work, technical drawings, samples and photographs showing skills and development process. It is assessed in practical examinations and used when applying for design or production roles.