Fabric Construction, Weaves and Fabric Finishes
What the domain covers
This domain covers how fabric is built and finished. Expect questions on woven, knitted, and nonwoven structures; plain, twill, and satin weaves; knit courses and wales; and mechanical or chemical finishes.
Core rules and concepts
- Woven fabric has warp and weft; knitted fabric has loops in courses and wales; nonwoven is bonded fibre web.
- Plain weave: maximum interlacing, firm and stable. Twill: diagonal lines, good drape and abrasion resistance. Satin: floats give lustre but lower abrasion resistance.
- Fabric finishes may be mechanical (calendering, raising, sanforising) or chemical (mercerising, water repellency, flame retardancy).
- Durable finishes last through washing; non-durable finishes are temporary.
- Grain, shrinkage, and handle affect cutting and garment performance.
Worked example
A fabric shows a clear diagonal line, indigo face, and visible floats on the reverse. Reasoning: the diagonal is the twill characteristic; visible floats show yarns crossing over more than one yarn. If the diagonal runs strongly and the fabric is sturdy, a 3/1 twill is likely. Satin would show long lustrous floats and a smoother face, not a pronounced diagonal.
Traps that cost marks
- Confusing satin weave with sateen, which is a satin-weave fabric made with spun yarns.
- Describing a finish as a weave.
- Ignoring shrinkage and grain when selecting fabric for a garment.
- Assuming all lustrous fabrics are silk.
Exam focus
Identify structure first, then weave or knit type, then finish, and finally the effect on garment use.