Pattern Making, Drafting and Grading
What the domain covers
This domain tests body measurement, block drafting, flat pattern development, and grading between sizes. You need to know how seam allowance, grainline, notches, darts, and grade increments affect fit and production.
Core rules and concepts
- Measurements are taken over fitted clothing with the tape level and snug, not tight.
- A basic block has no seam allowance; production patterns add seam allowance and hem allowance.
- Grainline must run parallel to centre front or centre back unless a bias design is intended.
- Darts convert flat fabric into three-dimensional shape; their position and intake affect fit.
- Grading changes pattern dimensions by controlled increments between sizes, not by simple photocopy scaling.
- Notches, drill holes, and balance marks help align pieces during sewing.
Worked example
A bodice block is cut without seam allowance and the instruction says cut two. Reasoning: add 1 cm seam allowance to every seam, add a 3 cm hem allowance if the hem is separate, and mark the grainline parallel to centre front. Cut two mirrored pieces, not two identical pieces, so the left and right bodices face opposite directions. Transfer notches before removing the pattern.
Traps that cost marks
- Forgetting seam allowance on a no-allowance block.
- Grading by enlarging every point equally, which distorts armholes and necklines.
- Placing grainline across the bias by accident.
- Cutting two right sides because mirroring was ignored.
Exam focus
State the pattern type, allowance, grain, cut quantity, and balance marks in that order.