UPMSP High School Tailoring cheat sheet

Machine parts and functions: needle plate (supports fabric, guides needle), feed dog (moves fabric), presser foot (holds fabric down), bobbin case (holds lower thread), take-up lever (controls thread tension during stitch cycle).

Needle sizing: Indian/European metric sizes 60/8 to 110/18; finer needle (60/8–70/10) for light fabrics like chiffon and voile; 80/12 for medium cotton; 90/14–110/18 for denim and canvas. Larger number = thicker needle.

Needle point types: sharp (woven fabrics), ballpoint (knits), universal (general), leather point (leather/nonwoven).

Upper thread tension is set by the tension dial; lower tension by the bobbin case screw. Symptom rule: loops and tangles under the fabric = upper tension too loose or bobbin threaded wrongly; loops on top = upper tension too tight.

Oiling rule: clean lint from bobbin area and feed dogs after every few hours of sewing; apply one or two drops of machine oil at oil points per manual; never over-oil - excess oil stains fabric.

Belt and drive check: machine should turn freely by hand with the clutch disengaged; a slipping belt causes weak stitching and burning smell.

Common machine faults and causes: skipped stitches (bent/blunt needle, wrong needle for fabric), needle breakage (pulling fabric, wrong needle plate), thread breakage (rough needle eye, tight tension, knot in thread).

Storage and safety: unplug before cleaning or oiling, raise presser foot when not in use to protect spring, cover machine to keep out dust and lint.

Measuring and marking tools: tape measure (150 cm, both sides), seam ripper, tailor's chalk, tracing wheel and carbon paper, pinking shears, thread snips, thimble.

Key body measurements: bust/chest (fullest part), waist (natural waistline), hip (fullest part, usually 18–22 cm below waist), shoulder width, back length (nape to waist), sleeve length (shoulder point to wrist), inseam, outseam.

Ease allowance rule: close-fitting garment = 2.5–5 cm ease at bust; semi-fitted = 5–10 cm; loose = 10 cm or more. Hip ease generally ≥ bust ease for comfort.

Drafting sequence for a bodice: mark center front/back line, then neckline, shoulder line, armhole, bust/chest line, waistline, dart positions; always work from the center line outward.

Pattern symbols: grain line arrow (parallel to selvedge), notches (single = front, double = back), fold line, dart legs and point, buttonhole placement, seam allowance line.

Standard seam allowances: 1 cm for most seams, 1.5–2 cm for side seams needing alteration, 2.5–4 cm for hems; commercial patterns usually print 1.5 cm (5/8 inch) unless stated.

Grain rule: lengthwise grain runs parallel to selvedge and has least stretch; crosswise grain has more stretch; true bias is at 45° and has maximum stretch and drape.

Pattern grading: increase or decrease a pattern by a fixed step (commonly 1 cm at bust, 1 cm at waist, 1 cm at hip per size) at designated grade points, keeping grain lines unchanged.

Pattern layout rules: place large pieces first, keep all grain arrows parallel to selvedge, place nap/one-way designs all in one direction, use leftover spaces for small pieces.

Fitting adjustments: full bust adjustment adds width and length at the bust; sway back adjustment removes excess at center back; broad shoulder adjustment adds width at shoulder point.

Hand stitch types and use: running stitch (gathering, basting), back stitch (strong seams, imitation machine stitch), hemming/blind stitch (invisible hem), blanket stitch (edges, appliqué), chain stitch (decoration), satin stitch (filling, embroidery), overcasting/whip stitch (raw edge finishing).

Stitch length rule: basting = 4–6 mm; general seaming = 2.5–3 mm; topstitching = 3–4 mm; fine fabrics = 1.5–2 mm; buttonholes = short dense zigzag.

Machine stitch classes: straight stitch (301 lockstitch), zigzag (used for overcasting, stretch, appliqué), blind hem, buttonhole, overlock (serger) for edge finishing.

Tension balance test: stitch on a scrap; ideal lockstitch has knots buried inside the fabric, not visible on either side.

Stitch density: 10–14 stitches per inch (about 4–6 per cm) for standard seams; too short = puckering and thread breakage; too long = weak seam.

Backstitching: reverse 2–3 stitches at the start and end of a seam to lock it; do not backstitch on delicate fabrics - tie thread ends instead.

Seam types: plain seam (most common), French seam (light fabrics, encloses raw edges), flat-felled seam (denim, strong), lapped seam, run-and-fell.

Hand stitch tension: thread should lie flat without puckering; use shorter thread length (about 45–50 cm) to reduce tangling and abrasion.

Fibre classification: natural (cotton, linen, silk, wool) vs man-made (regenerated: viscose/rayon; synthetic: polyester, nylon, acrylic).

Cotton: absorbent, strong when wet, shrinks, wrinkles; washes at 40–60 °C; hot iron with steam; can be bleached.

Linen: strongest natural fibre, cool, creases badly, low elasticity; wash warm, iron hot and damp; avoid high-speed wringing.

Silk: lustrous, strong, low elasticity, sensitive to sunlight and perspiration; hand wash or dry clean, cool iron, no chlorine bleach.

Wool: warm, elastic, absorbs moisture, felts and shrinks with heat, friction and alkali; hand wash cool with mild neutral detergent, dry flat, steam iron.

Polyester: strong, quick-drying, thermoplastic, low absorbency; washes easily, low iron temperature, avoid high heat which can glaze the surface.

Viscose/rayon: soft, absorbent, weak when wet, shrinks; hand wash gently, cool iron.

Care label symbols: tub = wash (number = max °C), triangle = bleach, square with circle = tumble dry, iron symbol with dots = temperature (1 dot low, 3 dots high), circle = dry clean.

Colourfastness test: soak a small sample in warm water with detergent; if dye bleeds, wash separately or dry clean. Testing fibre identity: burn test - cotton/linen smell of burning paper, wool/silk of burning hair, synthetics melt into a hard bead.

Construction order: pattern layout and cutting → marking → stay stitching → darts → seams → zipper/placket → facing/collar → sleeves → hemming → pressing → final inspection.

Dart construction: stitch from wide end to point, taper last 1–2 cm to zero, tie thread ends; press darts toward center or downward per design.

Stay stitching: a line of straight stitching on a single layer just inside the seam line to prevent stretching (necklines, armholes, bias edges).

Facing and interfacing: facing finishes edges (neckline, armhole); interfacing adds body and is fused or sewn to the wrong side of facings, collars, cuffs and plackets.

Zipper insertion: centered, lapped and invisible methods; invisible zip is inserted with a special foot and sits in the seam.

Sleeve setting: ease the sleeve cap between notches, distribute fullness evenly, stitch with sleeve on top; check for puckers before overcasting.

Hemming: measure hem depth (2.5–4 cm for skirts, 1–2 cm for sleeves), mark with chalk and gauge, press, then blind hem or machine hem.

Pressing rules: press as you sew, use a pressing cloth on delicate fabrics, press seams open on the wrong side, do not press over pins; a clapper sets creases.

Final finishing checks: even hem, matched notches and patterns, secure buttons, trimmed threads, clean-pressed garment, correct ease and fit.

Embroidery hand stitches: stem/outline, chain, satin, lazy daisy, French knot, feather, cross stitch, blanket stitch.

Transferring designs: tracing with carbon and tracing wheel, pricking and pouncing with chalk powder, tissue/wash-away tracing, light-box method.

Embroidery threads: stranded cotton (6 strands, divisible), pearl cotton (twisted, non-divisible), silk floss, metallic thread; needle size and eye matched to thread thickness.

Frames and hoops: fabric must be drum-tight; work with the design centered; avoid hooping over areas that will be seamed.

Appliqué: cut shape with 5–6 mm seam allowance, turn under and baste, then blind-stitch or machine satin-stitch the edge; fusible web is an alternative.

Patchwork and quilting: accurate 6 mm (¼ inch) seam allowance, press seams to one side, quilt layers (top, batting, backing) with running or machine stitching.

Smocking and pleating: gather fabric into even pleats with gathering threads, then work cable, honeycomb or wave stitches over the pleats.

Fabric painting and printing: block printing with carved wooden blocks, screen printing with a mesh screen, stencil and batik (wax resist); pre-wash fabric to remove sizing.

Embellishment care: embellished garments are usually hand washed inside out, ironed on the reverse over a towel to protect raised work.

Machine safety rules: keep fingers away from the needle, never sew over pins, unplug before oiling or changing needles, keep the power cord away from the work area.

Needle and pin hazards: use a pin cushion or magnetic holder, never hold pins in the mouth, dispose of broken needles in a marked container.

Iron safety: keep the iron on its heel or stand, never leave it face down, check the cord for damage, unplug after use, use a pressing cloth.

Cutting tool safety: cut away from the body, keep shears sharp, pass scissors handle-first, never carry open scissors in a pocket.

Ergonomics: chair height so feet rest flat, work surface at elbow height, good lighting from the left (right-handed), take short breaks to prevent strain.

Ventilation and dust: lint and fibre dust are fire and health hazards; clean machines and floors regularly, keep a fire extinguisher suitable for electrical fires.

Personal hygiene: wash hands before handling light-coloured fabric, keep food and drink away from the work area, cover hair if required.

First aid basics: for needle pricks clean and cover the wound; for burns cool under running water; know the location of the first aid box.

Workplace organisation: 5S-style practice - sort, set in order, shine, standardise, sustain; keep tools at fixed places and label storage.

Costing formula: total cost = material cost + labour cost + overheads; selling price = total cost + profit margin; profit margin often expressed as a percentage of cost or of selling price.

Material costing: fabric required (garment area + seam allowance + matching for pattern repeat) × rate per metre; add thread, buttons, zipper, interfacing, lining.

Labour costing: time per operation × wage rate per hour; piece-rate is common in tailoring units.

Break-even point (units) = fixed costs ÷ (selling price per unit − variable cost per unit).

Pricing decisions: consider competitor rates, quality level, delivery time and customer segment; keep written quotations and bills.

Business records: maintain a measurement book, order register, purchase and sale records, and a simple cash book; separate business and personal money.

Marketing channels: word of mouth, social media, local exhibitions, tailoring shops, school and institutional uniform contracts.

Government support: schemes such as skill development and self-employment loans; registration options include small enterprise/Udyam registration.

Career paths: tailor, pattern maker, sample maker, embroidery worker, fashion designer, boutique owner, costume designer, textile/fashion teacher, garment factory supervisor.