UPMSP High School Tailoring key terms

A number showing the thickness of a machine needle; smaller numbers suit light fabrics like cotton lawn, larger numbers suit heavy fabrics like denim or canvas. A blunt or bent needle causes skipped stitches and fabric damage.

The flat metal plate under the presser foot with a small hole for the needle. Its seam guide lines help keep stitching straight, and a burr or wrong plate can pull or break fabric and needle.

The hinged metal part that holds fabric flat against the feed dogs while stitching. Different feet exist for zips, buttonholes and blind hems; lifting the foot releases fabric for turning corners.

Toothed bars below the needle plate that grip and move fabric forward during machine stitching. Lowering or covering the feed dogs allows free-motion work such as darning or quilting.

The balance of thread pull between the upper tension discs and the bobbin case. Too tight upper tension pulls the bobbin thread to the top surface; too loose leaves loops underneath.

The dial or lever that sets how many millimetres of fabric the feed dog advances per stitch. Short stitches suit fine fabrics and reinforcement; long stitches suit basting and heavy fabrics.

The small metal or plastic spool that holds the lower thread inside the bobbin case. It must be wound evenly and inserted in the correct direction, or stitches loop and the thread jams.

Routine removal of lint from the bobbin area and feed dogs, plus a few drops of machine oil at marked points. This prevents stiff movement, overheating and costly repairs; over-oiling stains fabric.

A flexible marked strip, usually 150 cm long, used to take body and fabric measurements. It must not stretch or twist; it is held snug but not tight around the body for accurate readings.

Readings taken around and along the body, such as bust, waist, hip and length, used to draft a pattern. They are taken over light clothing with the tape level and the person standing naturally.

Extra width added beyond body measurements so a garment allows movement and comfort. Woven fabrics need more ease than knits; too little ease causes strain at armholes and seat.

The strip of fabric between the stitching line and the raw edge, commonly 1 to 1.5 cm. It is marked on the pattern and must be added before cutting unless the pattern already includes it.

Drawing full-size garment pieces on paper from body measurements, including darts, grain lines and allowances. An accurate draft reduces fitting problems and fabric waste during cutting.

The arrow printed on a pattern piece showing how it must lie parallel to the fabric selvedge. Ignoring it causes twisting, stretching and poor drape in the finished garment.

The firmly woven finished edge along both sides of a length of fabric. It does not fray and is used to straighten the fabric before laying out pattern pieces.

The diagonal direction of a woven fabric, at 45 degrees to the selvedge. Bias-cut strips stretch and curve well, making them ideal for binding necklines and armholes.

A trial garment sewn in cheap plain cotton from the drafted pattern to check fit before cutting the final fabric. Alterations are marked on the trial and transferred back to the paper pattern.

A simple hand stitch worked by passing the needle in and out of the fabric at even intervals. It is used for gathering, tucking and light seams, and is the basis of hand quilting.

A strong hand stitch made by taking one stitch forward and then bringing the needle back to the end of the previous stitch. It resembles machine stitching and is used where strength is needed.

A long, loose temporary stitch used to hold fabric layers or a zip in place before final stitching. It is removed after the permanent seam is sewn, so contrast thread is often used.

A hand stitch that secures a folded hem edge with small, nearly invisible stitches on the right side. The needle picks up only a thread or two of the garment to avoid a ridge.

A hand stitch worked along a raw edge with the thread looped under the needle. It neatens edges of felt and appliqué and is also used decoratively on woollens and children's garments.

The basic machine stitch formed by the needle moving straight up and down while the feed dog advances fabric. It is used for seams, topstitching and edge stitching on most woven fabrics.

A machine stitch that swings the needle sideways, producing a zigzag line. It is used to overcast raw edges, sew knits with stretch, and make simple buttonholes and decorative patterns.

A fibre obtained from plants or animals, such as cotton, linen, silk and wool. Natural fibres generally breathe well and absorb moisture but may shrink, crease or felt when washed wrongly.

A fibre made chemically from polymers, such as polyester, nylon and acrylic. Synthetics are strong and quick-drying but hold heat, pill easily and are damaged by very hot ironing.

The reduction in fabric size after washing or wetting, common in cotton and viscose. Pre-shrinking fabric or choosing washable fabric prevents finished garments from becoming too small.

The printed tag inside a garment giving washing temperature, bleaching, drying, ironing and dry-cleaning instructions. Following it protects the fabric and protects the maker from complaints.

The heat setting chosen for a fabric; cotton tolerates high heat, wool medium, and polyester or nylon low heat. Too hot an iron glazes synthetics and scorches cellulose fibres permanently.

A stitched triangular fold that shapes flat fabric to body curves at bust, waist or shoulder. Darts are marked, pinned and stitched from the wide end to the point for a smooth result.

A line of straight stitching worked just inside the seam line on curved edges such as necklines. It stops the fabric from stretching out of shape before the garment is assembled.

Any method of neatening a raw seam edge, such as overcasting, zigzagging, French seams or binding. Good finishing prevents fraying, strengthens seams and improves the inside appearance.

A hem where stitches barely show on the right side, worked by hand or with a blind-hem machine foot. It suits formal trousers, skirts and woollens where visible stitching is unwanted.

A narrow machine foot that lets the needle stitch close to a zip or piping without the foot riding on the teeth. It can be adjusted to sit on either side of the needle.

A decorative technique of cutting fabric shapes and stitching them onto a base fabric. Edges are secured with blanket stitch, satin stitch or zigzag to prevent fraying.

Decorative stitching worked on fabric with thread to create patterns, motifs and borders. Common stitches include chain, satin and stem, and a hoop keeps the fabric evenly taut.

A narrow strip cut on the bias and folded to enclose a raw edge, used on necklines, armholes and quilts. Its stretch lets it follow curves smoothly without puckering.

A shield or finger guard fitted near the needle to keep fingers away from the stitching point. It must never be removed, even for experienced operators, because needle injuries are common.

A sewing setup where chair height, table height and lighting let the worker sit upright with shoulders relaxed. Poor posture causes neck, back and wrist strain over long working hours.

Keeping the workroom clean, well lit and ventilated, with floors swept of threads and pins and hands washed before handling light-coloured fabric. It protects both worker health and product quality.

Handling pins and needles with care: keeping them in a pin cushion, never in the mouth, and counting them before and after use. Stray pins damage machines and injure customers.

A record listing material, labour, overhead and finishing costs for one garment to fix a selling price. Accurate costing shows the real profit margin and prevents underpricing.

Indirect expenses of running a tailoring unit, such as rent, electricity, machine depreciation and insurance, that are not tied to one garment. They must be shared across output in costing.

The amount added to the total cost of a garment to arrive at its selling price. It must cover overheads, wastage and a fair profit while staying acceptable to local customers.