UPMSP High School Tailoring flashcards
UPMSP High School Tailoring · Build recall with a focused review session.
32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.
- Presser foot
- The metal part that holds fabric flat against the needle plate while stitching. It must be raised when threading or removing work and lowered before sewing to keep stitch length even.
- Feed dog
- Toothed metal bar under the needle plate that grips and moves fabric forward by a set amount each stitch. Lowering it allows free-motion embroidery and darning.
- Bobbin case
- The removable holder that houses the bobbin and provides lower thread tension. Lint trapped here causes tangled stitches, so it should be cleaned regularly.
- Needle size 90/14
- A medium-heavy needle suited to denim, canvas and upholstery fabric. The larger number means a thicker blade, which resists bending in dense fabric.
- Ballpoint needle
- A needle with a rounded tip that pushes between knit loops instead of cutting them. Used for jersey, rib and other stretch fabrics to prevent laddering and skipped stitches.
- Oiling a sewing machine
- Applying one or two drops of machine oil at points marked in the manual, after removing lint. Excess oil stains fabric, so wipe the area before sewing.
- Tape measure
- A flexible 150 cm strip marked in centimetres on one side and inches on the other. Used for taking body measurements and checking pattern lengths.
- Bust measurement
- Measured around the fullest part of the bust with the tape level and parallel to the floor, arms relaxed. It forms the base for bodice drafting and ease calculations.
- Ease allowance
- Extra width added beyond body measurements so the wearer can move and breathe. Close-fitting garments need 2.5–5 cm at bust; loose styles need 10 cm or more.
- Grain line arrow
- A pattern symbol showing where the lengthwise grain must run, parallel to the selvedge. Placing it wrongly causes twisting, sagging and poor drape.
- True bias
- A line at exactly 45 degrees to the lengthwise and crosswise grain. Fabric cut on true bias stretches most and is used for bias binding and draped garments.
- Notch marks on patterns
- Small marks on pattern edges used to match pieces during sewing. A single notch usually marks the front and a double notch the back.
- Full bust adjustment
- A pattern alteration that adds width and length at the bust area and reshapes the dart, used when the bust measurement is larger than the pattern size assumes.
- Running stitch
- A basic hand stitch of small, even in-and-out strokes along a line. Used for basting, gathering and simple seams; stitches should be equal on both sides.
- Back stitch
- A strong hand stitch made by inserting the needle behind the previous stitch, creating a continuous line. It is used where machine stitching is not possible.
- Blind hem stitch
- A hand or machine stitch that catches only a few threads of the garment face, leaving the hem almost invisible from the right side.
- Zigzag stitch
- A machine stitch that moves the needle sideways, used for overcasting raw edges, sewing stretch fabric and attaching appliqué. Width and length are adjustable.
- Stitch length 2.5 mm
- A standard machine setting for general seaming on medium-weight fabric. Shorter lengths pucker fine fabric; longer lengths weaken seams.
- French seam
- A seam sewn twice, first with wrong sides together and then with right sides together, enclosing the raw edges. Suited to light, sheer fabrics.
- Cotton fibre properties
- A natural cellulose fibre that is absorbent, strong when wet and comfortable. It wrinkles, shrinks on washing and takes hot ironing with steam.
- Wool felting
- The matting and shrinking of wool caused by heat, moisture and friction during washing. Prevented by cool hand washing with mild neutral detergent and no wringing.
- Silk care
- Silk is lustrous but weakened by sunlight, perspiration and chlorine bleach. It is usually hand washed or dry cleaned and pressed with a cool iron.
- Iron symbol dots
- Care-label marks showing iron temperature: one dot means low heat, two dots medium and three dots high. No dots means do not iron.
- Burn test
- A fibre identification test: cotton and linen smell of burning paper, wool and silk of burning hair, and synthetics melt into a hard bead.
- Stay stitching
- A row of straight stitching on a single fabric layer just inside the seam line. It stops bias edges such as necklines and armholes from stretching during construction.
- Dart stitching
- Sewing from the wide end of the dart toward the point, tapering the last 1–2 cm to zero and tying the threads. This shapes fabric to body curves.
- Facing
- A piece of fabric sewn to a garment edge and turned to the inside to finish it neatly. Used at necklines, armholes, fronts and hems.
- Invisible zipper
- A zipper inserted in a seam with a special foot so the teeth are hidden. It gives a clean, concealed closure on dresses and skirts.
- Appliqué
- A decorative technique where a cut fabric shape is stitched onto a base fabric. Edges are turned under and blind-stitched or finished with satin stitch.
- French knot
- An embroidery stitch made by wrapping thread around the needle two or three times before pulling it through. It creates small raised dots for flower centres.
- Block printing
- A hand printing method using a carved wooden block dipped in dye or pigment and pressed onto fabric. Designs repeat by aligning the block carefully.
- Break-even point
- The number of units sold at which total revenue equals total cost, found by dividing fixed costs by selling price minus variable cost per unit.