Measuring, Drafting and Pattern Making
What this domain tests
The Measuring, Drafting and Pattern Making domain tests body measurement, pattern drafting, ease, seam allowance, grainline, and cutting layouts. You must be able to take consistent measurements and turn them into a pattern that fits and can be cut accurately.
Core rules
- Take measurements over light clothing. Keep the tape horizontal at bust, waist, and hip; snug but not tight. Record in centimetres and note the date.
- Key measurements include bust/chest, waist, hip, shoulder width, back length, sleeve length, and garment length. Measure the person, not an old garment.
- Ease is the extra room added to a body measurement for comfort and style; seam allowance is extra added for joining and finishing. Keep them separate.
- Draft on pattern paper with a sharp pencil. Mark centre front, centre back, grainline, fold lines, notches, and the cut quantity.
- The lengthwise grainline runs parallel to the selvedge. Place pattern pieces accordingly; never twist a piece to save fabric unless the design allows it.
- Add seam allowance after drafting the block, following the pattern instruction, usually about 1 cm for seams and more at hems.
Worked example
Bust is 84 cm and the design needs 6 cm ease. Reasoning: the total bust measurement is 84 + 6 = 90 cm. A basic bodice block uses quarter-bust at the side seam, so 90 ÷ 4 = 22.5 cm from centre front to side seam at bust level. Draft at 22.5 cm without seam allowance. When tracing the final pattern, add the seam allowance separately. Cutting at 22.5 cm and then sewing a 1 cm seam would make the garment too tight.
Traps
Measuring over a bulky sweater; letting the tape twist; forgetting ease; adding seam allowance twice; cutting two identical sleeves instead of a mirrored pair; and ignoring fabric shrinkage or directional prints.