Basic Hand Stitches and Machine Stitches
What this domain tests
This domain tests hand stitches and machine stitches: their names, purposes, working method, and suitability for different fabrics and seams. Expect questions on temporary versus permanent stitches, stitch length, tension, and seam finishes.
Core rules
- Temporary stitches: tacking/basting and running stitches hold layers before final stitching. Remove them after the permanent seam is sewn.
- Permanent hand stitches: back stitch is strong and is used where machine stitching is impossible; hemming and slip stitch give an almost invisible edge; blanket stitch strengthens an edge and is used around appliqué or buttonholes.
- Keep hand threads short, about 45–60 cm, to reduce tangling. Start and finish securely without a large visible knot.
- On a lockstitch machine, balanced tension means the upper and lower threads meet inside the fabric. Stitch length is adjusted for fabric weight: short for fine cloth, longer for thick cloth.
- Straight stitch is for seams; zigzag is for stretch, overcasting, and decorative work. Backstitch a few stitches at seam ends for security.
Worked example
A cotton tote bag handle is stitched with a machine straight stitch. Reasoning: choose a 2.5 mm stitch, matching thread, and a size 14 needle; begin and end with backstitching. At the point where the handle meets the bag, sew a square with an X inside for reinforcement. If the fabric is thick, lengthen the stitch slightly and turn the handwheel by hand over the first few stitches instead of pushing the fabric.
Traps
Using a knot instead of a securing stitch; leaving basting in place; pulling fabric through the machine; using a very long stitch on a seam that bears weight; and ignoring a tangled bobbin, which causes uneven stitches.