WBCHSE HS Vocational Apparel cheat sheet

Textile fiber classification: natural (cellulosic: cotton, linen; protein: wool, silk) vs. manufactured (regenerated: viscose, acetate; synthetic: polyester, nylon, acrylic).

Cotton fiber: cellulose polymer, convoluted ribbon shape, good absorbency, low elasticity, burns with paper smell; linen is stronger, stiffer, and has natural luster.

Wool: protein (keratin), scales give felting and warmth; silk: continuous filament, triangular cross-section, high luster and strength.

Yarn count systems: direct (tex, denier) where higher number = coarser; indirect (Ne, cotton count) where higher number = finer. Conversion: tex = 590.5 / Ne.

Fabric weave types: plain (balanced, strong), twill (diagonal, durable), satin (float, lustrous); knits: weft (jersey) vs. warp (tricot).

GSM (grams per square meter) measures fabric weight; for a given fiber, higher GSM generally means heavier, warmer fabric.

Dimensional stability: shrinkage occurs due to relaxation and swelling; pre-shrunk cotton reduces laundering shrinkage.

Colorfastness tests: rubbing (crocking), washing, light; a rating of 5 means negligible color change, 1 means severe change.

Drafting sequence: take body measurements, draft basic block (bodice, skirt, sleeve), true seams, add seam allowance, label grainline.

Seam allowance standard: 1.5 cm (5/8 inch) for most seams; 1 cm for necklines and armholes; 3–5 cm for hems.

Grainline must run parallel to center front/back and lengthwise on sleeves; off-grain cutting causes twisting and poor drape.

Dart manipulation: a dart can be moved to any edge by pivoting around the bust point; the total dart intake remains constant.

Slash-and-spread method adds fullness (gathers, pleats) by cutting the pattern and spreading sections; pivot method moves darts without adding volume.

Muslin (toile) fit check: check bust, waist, hip, shoulder, and back length; correct by pinning and transferring changes to the paper pattern.

Grading increases or decreases pattern size by a set increment (e.g., 4 cm bust, 3 cm waist) while maintaining proportions.

Stitch types: lockstitch (301) for seams, chainstitch (401) for knits, overlock (504) for edge finishing and seaming.

Seam types: plain (pressed open), French (enclosed, lightweight fabrics), flat-felled (jeans, durable), lapped (lingerie).

Interfacing is applied to collars, cuffs, and waistbands to add firmness and prevent stretching; fusible vs. sew-in depends on fabric.

Zipper insertion: centered, lapped, and invisible; invisible zipper requires a special foot and is sewn before side seams.

Buttonhole placement: on center front for women's wear (right over left), on center front for men's wear (left over right); buttonhole length = button diameter + thickness.

Hems: straight stitch for woven, blind hem for formal wear, twin-needle for knits; stitch length 2.5–3 mm.

Sewing machine tension: upper tension too tight causes puckering and needle thread breakage; too loose causes loops on the underside.

Design elements: line, shape, color, texture, space; principles: balance, rhythm, proportion, emphasis, unity.

Repeat types: full drop (block), half drop (offset by half the motif height), brick, mirror, and tossed (random).

Color theory: primary (red, yellow, blue), secondary (orange, green, violet), tertiary; complementary colors opposite on the color wheel.

Value is lightness/darkness; intensity (saturation) is purity; hue is the color name.

Motif categories: floral, geometric, abstract, conversational (figurative), traditional (paisley, ikat).

Textile design software: CAD for repeats, colorways, and simulations; vector files for screen preparation.

Fabric design must consider end use: drape (lightweight for dresses), durability (twill for trousers), and care (washable for childrenswear).

Printing methods: block, screen (flat and rotary), roller, transfer, digital; screen printing uses a mesh stencil and squeegee.

Resist dyeing: batik (wax resist), tie-dye (binding), ikat (yarn resist before weaving).

Discharge printing removes dye from dyed fabric; burnout uses fiber-destroying paste for devoré effects.

Embroidery stitches: running, satin, chain, stem, French knot; machine embroidery uses digitized files.

Appliqué attaches a fabric patch; reverse appliqué cuts through the top layer to reveal a contrasting underlayer.

Quilting joins layers with stitching; kantha is a running-stitch quilting tradition.

Digital printing offers unlimited colors and low setup cost, but has lower wash fastness than reactive screen printing on cotton.

Production planning: forecasting, sourcing, sampling (proto, fit, salesman), grading, marker making, cutting, sewing, finishing, inspection, packing.

Marker efficiency = (area of pattern pieces / area of marker) × 100; higher efficiency reduces fabric waste.

Cutting methods: straight knife (bulk), band knife (precision), die cutting (small parts), laser (automation).

Production systems: progressive bundle system (PBS), unit production system (UPS), modular manufacturing; UPS reduces work-in-progress.

Line balancing assigns operations to workstations so cycle times are equal; bottleneck operation limits output.

SAM (standard allowed minute) is the time for a qualified worker to perform a task at standard pace; used for costing and capacity planning.

Capacity = (available minutes × efficiency) / SAM per garment.

Quality control points: incoming fabric inspection (4-point system), in-process checks, final inspection (AQL sampling).

AQL (acceptable quality limit) tables determine sample size and accept/reject number based on lot size and inspection level.

4-point fabric inspection: assign 1–4 points per defect based on length; reject roll if points exceed a set limit per 100 square yards.

Common defects: needle holes, skipped stitches, puckering, shade variation, misalignment, oil stains.

ISO 9001 is a quality management system standard; SA 8000 addresses social accountability.

Corrective and preventive action (CAPA) records root cause and prevents recurrence.

Care labeling must follow standard symbols for washing, bleaching, drying, ironing, and dry cleaning.

Croquis proportions: fashion figure is 9–10 heads tall; garment design focuses on silhouette, line, and detail.

Illustration media: pencil, marker, watercolor, gouache, digital (Procreate, Illustrator); flat sketches are technical drawings.

Color story and mood board communicate seasonal direction; fabric swatches support the theme.

Merchandising calendar: planning, design, sampling, production, delivery; lead times vary by category.

Assortment planning balances breadth (variety) and depth (quantity per SKU); stock-to-sales ratio guides replenishment.

Retail math: markup % = (retail – cost) / retail × 100; markdown reduces selling price to clear stock.

Target customer profile includes age, income, lifestyle, and size range; fit models represent the target body.

Costing components: material (fabric, trims), labor (cutting, sewing, finishing), overhead, and profit margin.

Fabric consumption = marker length × marker width / garment area; add 3–5% for waste.

Break-even point = fixed costs / (selling price – variable cost per unit).

Pricing methods: cost-plus, competitive, value-based; export pricing includes freight, duty, and documentation.

Occupational safety: machine guarding, needle guard, proper lighting, ergonomic seating, and fire extinguishers.

Hazardous chemicals in dyeing and finishing require MSDS, gloves, ventilation, and waste treatment.

Entrepreneurial support: MSME registration, government schemes, export promotion councils, and trade fairs.

Practical file should include samples of seams, darts, zippers, buttonholes, and hems with labels and neatness.

Portfolio components: mood board, croquis, technical flats, fabric swatches, specification sheet, and final photographs.

Spec sheet includes measurements, fabric, trims, construction details, and grading rules.

Project report structure: title, introduction, objectives, methodology, findings, conclusion, references.

Assessment criteria: originality, technical accuracy, finishing quality, presentation, and documentation.

Garment measurement check: bust, waist, hip, length, sleeve length; tolerance ±0.5 cm for most measurements.

Digital portfolio: high-resolution images, consistent layout, and captions explaining design decisions.