WBCHSE HS Vocational Apparel key terms

The two yarn sets in woven fabric: warp threads run lengthwise under tension on the loom, while weft threads cross them widthwise. Their interlacing pattern determines fabric strength, stretch and grain direction.

The tightly woven finished edge running along both lengthwise sides of a woven fabric, formed where the weft turns back. It prevents raveling and marks the fabric's lengthwise direction.

The direction of the warp yarns in woven fabric, marked on pattern pieces as a long arrow. Placing it parallel to the selvedge keeps garments hanging straight and prevents twisting.

A diagonal direction across woven fabric at 45 degrees to the warp and weft. Bias-cut strips stretch and curve easily, making them useful for binding curved edges and creating drape.

A narrow strip of fabric cut on the bias and folded to encase a raw edge. Because it stretches, it follows curves smoothly and gives a neat, durable finish on necklines and armholes.

The process of constructing pattern pieces from body measurements using calculated rules and blocks, rather than by draping. It produces accurate, repeatable shapes for a chosen size.

A simple, close-fitting master pattern for a bodice, sleeve or skirt with no design features, developed from body measurements. It is traced and adapted to create new styles.

A trial garment made in inexpensive plain fabric to test the fit and construction of a pattern before cutting the final material. Alterations are marked and transferred back to the pattern.

The systematic enlargement or reduction of a graded pattern through a size range by applying consistent increments at set points. It preserves the design's proportions across sizes.

The extra width added beyond the stitching line on a pattern piece, later trimmed or pressed open. It provides material for joining pieces and for any needed alteration.

The most common join, made by placing two right sides together and stitching along the seam line. Edges are then pressed open or finished to prevent raveling.

A stitch formed by a serger that wraps the raw edge while trimming it, preventing fraying and often joining seams at the same time. It is widely used in knitwear and industrial production.

The number of stitches per unit length of seam, usually expressed in stitches per inch or per centimetre. Correct density balances seam strength with fabric bulk and elasticity.

The ability of a stitched join to withstand pulling and abrasion without breaking or slipping. It depends on thread type, stitch density, fabric and seam construction.

The opening of a seam when yarns in the fabric pull apart along the stitch line under strain. It is common in loosely woven fabrics and is tested as a quality parameter.

A wedge-shaped fold stitched into fabric to shape it to body curves at the bust, waist, shoulder or hip. It removes excess fullness and is pressed to lie flat.

Soft folds created by stitching two parallel rows of long stitches and drawing up the bobbin threads to reduce a wide edge to a narrower one. They add fullness at cuffs, waists and yokes.

A decorative strip of fabric gathered along one edge and attached to a garment, producing a frilled effect. Ruffles may be single or double layered and are often used in childrenswear and trims.

Any decorative treatment applied to the surface of a textile after it is made, such as embroidery, applique, beadwork, quilting or mirror work. It adds visual and textural value.

A technique in which cut fabric shapes are stitched onto a base fabric to form a design. The edges are usually turned under or finished with satin stitch or buttonhole stitch.

A hand method of printing where a carved wooden or rubber block is inked and pressed onto fabric in repeated positions. Registration and even pressure determine print quality.

A printing technique in which ink is forced through a mesh screen with open areas corresponding to the design. It gives bold, opaque colour and is widely used for T-shirts and yardage.

The unit of a printed or woven design that recurs at regular intervals across the fabric. Patterns are marked with repeat size so garment pieces can be matched at seams.

Decorative stitching worked by hand or machine onto fabric to form motifs and textures. Common hand stitches include chain, satin, stem and buttonhole stitch.

The arrangement of pattern pieces in their most economical layout on a paper or digital marker before fabric is cut. It aims to minimize fabric waste while respecting grain and nap.

The percentage of the total fabric spread that is actually used by garment pieces rather than wasted. Efficient markers, correct spread width and careful size mixing raise this figure.

The production section where fabric is spread in layers and cut into garment components according to the marker. Accuracy here affects fit, fabric waste and downstream sewing efficiency.

A production method where cut pieces are tied into numbered bundles by size and colour and moved through sewing operations in sequence. It suits varied styles but carries work-in-progress inventory.

The allocation of work elements among operators so that each station's cycle time is nearly equal. Good balancing reduces bottlenecks, idle time and work-in-progress on the sewing line.

The time taken to complete one operation or produce one unit at a workstation. It is used to balance lines and to calculate capacity and labour cost per garment.

Standard Allowed Minute: the agreed time, including allowances, for a trained operator to perform a defined task at a normal pace. It is the basis for costing and production planning.

A statement that itemises the components of a product's cost, such as fabric, trims, labour, overheads and profit margin. It supports pricing decisions and negotiation with buyers.

Free On Board price: the cost of goods delivered on board the ship at the named port, with export packing but excluding freight and insurance. It is a common garment export quotation basis.

The function that plans and manages a product line from concept to delivery, balancing design, sampling, costing and buyer requirements. Merchandisers coordinate timelines and order execution.

A technical package containing flat sketches, measurements, construction details, fabric and trim specifications, and colourways. It guides sampling and bulk production and reduces miscommunication.

A clean, two-dimensional line drawing of a garment showing seams, darts, trims and topstitching without body shading. It communicates construction detail in tech packs and portfolios.

A stylised drawing that conveys a garment's mood, silhouette and detail on a croquis or elongated figure. It emphasises expression rather than exact technical measurement.

A quick, elongated figure template used as the base for fashion illustrations. Designers trace or draw over it to sketch garments with exaggerated proportions.

Acceptable Quality Level: the maximum percentage of defective units considered acceptable in a sampling inspection. It sets the accept or reject decision under a defined sampling plan.

A fabric inspection method that assigns 1 to 4 penalty points to defects according to their length or size. Points per hundred square yards determine whether a lot passes.