WBCHSE HS Vocational Apparel flashcards

32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.

GSM

Grams per square meter, a measure of fabric weight. Higher GSM generally means a heavier, denser, and warmer fabric, affecting drape and end use.

Tex

A direct yarn count system expressing the weight in grams of 1,000 meters of yarn. Higher tex means a coarser yarn.

Ne (cotton count)

An indirect yarn count system: number of 840-yard hanks per pound. Higher Ne means a finer yarn; tex = 590.5 / Ne.

Plain weave

The simplest weave with one-up, one-down interlacing. It is strong, balanced, and produces fabrics such as muslin, poplin, and calico.

Twill weave

A weave with diagonal lines formed by passing over two or more yarns. It is durable and used in denim, gabardine, and drill.

Satin weave

A weave with long floats that create a smooth, lustrous surface. It has low abrasion resistance and is used for formalwear and linings.

Seam allowance

The extra fabric beyond the seam line, usually 1.5 cm for main seams and 1 cm for necklines, needed for joining and finishing.

Grainline

A pattern marking indicating the lengthwise direction of the fabric. It must be parallel to the selvedge for correct drape and fit.

Dart manipulation

Moving a dart to another edge by pivoting around the bust point. The total intake stays the same, changing shape but not volume.

Slash and spread

A pattern-making method that cuts the pattern and spreads sections to add fullness for gathers, pleats, or flares.

Toile (muslin)

A test garment made in inexpensive fabric to check fit and design before cutting the final fabric. Adjustments are transferred to the pattern.

Grading

The process of increasing or decreasing a pattern by set increments to create a range of sizes while maintaining proportions.

Lockstitch (301)

A stitch formed by interlacing needle and bobbin threads. It is strong, used for seams, and unravels if a thread breaks.

Overlock stitch (504)

A stitch that trims and encloses the seam edge, preventing fraying. It is common on knits and lightweight wovens.

French seam

A seam that encloses raw edges within a fold, giving a neat finish. It is used on lightweight and sheer fabrics.

Flat-felled seam

A strong seam with raw edges enclosed by folding and stitching. It is used on jeans and workwear for durability.

Invisible zipper

A zipper inserted with a special foot so the teeth are hidden in the seam. It is sewn before side seams for a clean finish.

Half-drop repeat

A textile repeat where each motif is offset vertically by half its height, creating a diagonal arrangement and reducing visible lines.

Complementary colors

Colors opposite each other on the color wheel, such as red and green. They create high contrast and visual vibration when used together.

Batik

A resist-dyeing technique using wax to prevent dye from reaching the fabric. Cracks in the wax create characteristic veined patterns.

Discharge printing

A printing method that removes dye from previously dyed fabric using a discharge paste, leaving a light pattern on a dark ground.

Appliqué

A surface decoration where a fabric patch is cut and stitched onto a base fabric. Reverse appliqué cuts the top layer to reveal a contrast.

Marker efficiency

The percentage of marker area covered by pattern pieces: (piece area / marker area) × 100. Higher efficiency reduces fabric waste.

SAM

Standard allowed minute: the time a qualified worker needs to complete a task at standard pace. It is used for costing and capacity planning.

Unit production system

A material-handling system using overhead transporters to move single garments between workstations, reducing work-in-progress and lead time.

AQL

Acceptable quality limit: the maximum percentage of defective units allowed in a lot. Sampling plans use AQL to decide accept or reject.

4-point fabric inspection

A system that assigns 1–4 penalty points to fabric defects based on length. Rolls exceeding a set limit per 100 square yards are rejected.

CAPA

Corrective and preventive action: a quality process that identifies root causes of defects and implements changes to prevent recurrence.

Croquis

A quick fashion figure sketch, often 9–10 heads tall, used as a base for illustrating garment designs and proportions.

Technical flat

A precise, scaled drawing of a garment showing construction details, topstitching, and trims. It is used for production specifications.

Markup percentage

The difference between retail price and cost, expressed as a percentage of retail: (retail – cost) / retail × 100.

Break-even point

The sales quantity at which total revenue equals total cost: fixed costs divided by contribution margin per unit (price minus variable cost).