Pattern Making and Drafting
What the exam tests
Pattern Making and Drafting tests whether you can turn body measurements into an accurate flat pattern that fits and can be cut. Expect questions on measurement points, ease, seam allowance, grainline, notches and truing.
Core rules and concepts
- Take measurements over close-fitting clothing with the tape level. Key points include bust, waist, hip, shoulder, back length, sleeve length and neck.
- A block is a basic fitted pattern; a draft is the construction drawing. Garment measurement equals body measurement plus ease plus seam allowance where applicable.
- Draft the bodice for half the body, with front and back each using one quarter of the bust block. Mark centre front and centre back as fold lines unless a placket is planned.
- Add seam allowance after drafting: usually 1 cm to 1.5 cm at side and shoulder seams, 2.5 cm to 4 cm at hems. Do not add allowance to a centre fold.
- Transfer darts, notches and balance marks; true seams so front and back lengths match; test fit in a muslin toile.
Worked example
A bodice is drafted for bust 88 cm with 8 cm ease. The block bust is therefore 96 cm. One quarter is 24 cm. The back bodice is drafted 24 cm wide before seam allowance; the front may be 24 cm plus a small bust adjustment. If 1.5 cm seam allowance is added at the side seam, the cut side seam is 25.5 cm from centre back. No allowance is added at centre back if it is placed on a fold. The reasoning is: ease gives wearing room, the quarter distributes the block, and seam allowance is added only at cut edges.
Traps that cost marks
Measuring over thick clothes, forgetting ease, adding seam allowance to a fold, mixing front and back neck curves, and failing to true seams all lose marks.