Surface Ornamentation and Printing
What the exam tests
This domain tests hand and machine surface decoration, printing methods and the preparation and after-treatment that make decoration durable. Expect questions on stitch names, print paste, registration, dye suitability and resist techniques.
Core rules and concepts
- Embroidery stitches include running, stem, chain, satin and French knot. Applique attaches a cut shape; cutwork removes areas and binds edges; quilting stitches layers.
- Printing methods include block, screen, roller, transfer and digital. Dye-based prints bond with fibre; pigment prints sit on the surface with a binder.
- Cotton usually takes reactive dyes; polyester usually takes disperse dyes. Using the wrong dye class gives poor fastness.
- Resist methods include batik and tie-dye; discharge printing destroys colour in selected areas. Steaming, washing and soaping remove thickener and improve fastness.
Worked example
A block-printed cotton stole uses an 8 cm motif with a 2 cm gap. The repeat cell is 10 cm. On 92 cm usable width, 9 motifs fit across, using 90 cm and leaving 2 cm. Centre the layout by splitting the leftover to 1 cm at each selvedge. The reasoning is that the block must be aligned to the repeat, and centring prevents an obvious side imbalance. The fabric is scoured before printing, steamed after printing and washed to remove paste.
Traps that cost marks
Using one dye for every fibre, skipping steaming or washing, uneven print pressure, and ignoring registration between colours lose marks.