JCE Clothing and Textiles cheat sheet

Fibre classification: natural (cellulosic: cotton, linen, ramie; protein: wool, silk) vs manufactured (regenerated: viscose, acetate; synthetic: polyester, nylon, acrylic, elastane).

Staple fibres are short (cotton 1.5-6 cm, wool 3-40 cm) and need twist to form yarn; filament fibres are continuous and can be used flat or textured.

Yarn twist: S-twist vs Z-twist direction; higher twist (tighter) gives stronger, smoother, less absorbent yarn; low twist gives softer, bulkier handle.

Yarn count systems: cotton count (Ne) = number of 840-yard hanks per pound (higher = finer); denier = grams per 9,000 m (higher = coarser); tex = grams per 1,000 m.

Weave structures: plain (1/1, strongest, least drape), twill (diagonal, 2/1 or 3/1, durable), satin (floats, lustrous, snag-prone), plus pile and jacquard.

Knits: weft knit (single jersey, interlock, rib) stretches crosswise; warp knit (tricot, raschel) is more stable; wales run lengthwise, courses run crosswise.

Non-woven fabrics are bonded by mechanical (needle-punch), thermal, or chemical means; no yarn structure, so no grainline and limited drape.

Fabric weight is quoted in g/m² (GSM); typical shirting 100-150 GSM, denim 300-450 GSM, coating fabrics 400+ GSM.

Mechanical finishes: calendering (glazing, schreiner, embossing), raising/napping, sanforizing (shrinkage control to under 1%), and compressive shrinking.

Chemical finishes: mercerizing (caustic soda on cotton under tension - increases lustre, strength and dye uptake), resin/crease-resistant, water-repellent, flame-retardant, anti-static.

Functional finishes: soil-release, antimicrobial, UV-protective (UPF rating), moisture-wicking, and enzyme (bio-polishing) for pill reduction.

Durable press vs easy-care: durable press cures resin into the fabric for permanent creases; easy-care is a milder, less durable effect.

Water repellency differs from waterproofing: repellent finishes (e.g. fluorocarbon, wax) bead water but allow vapour; waterproof coatings block liquid but trap heat.

Flame-retardant finishes may be durable (inherent or chemically bound) or non-durable (water-soluble salts that wash out) - check care label for laundering limits.

Resin finishes on cotton reduce tensile and tear strength and can release formaldehyde; low-formaldehyde and formaldehyde-free options exist.

Finishes can be applied at fibre, yarn, fabric or garment stage - garment dyeing/finishing allows smaller lots and faster response to trends.

Dye-fibre affinity: direct/reactive dyes for cellulose; acid dyes for wool and silk; disperse dyes for polyester and other synthetics; vat dyes for denim (indigo).

Dyeing methods: stock (fibre), yarn, piece (fabric), and garment dyeing; each stage affects penetration, uniformity and cost.

Reactive dyes form covalent bonds with cellulose - excellent wash fastness; direct dyes are simpler but have poorer wet fastness unless after-treated.

Fastness properties to check: wash, light, rubbing (crocking), perspiration, and chlorine; rated 1-5 (grey scale) or 1-8 (blue wool light scale).

Printing methods: block, screen (flat or rotary), roller, transfer (sublimation on polyester), digital inkjet, and resist methods (batik, tie-dye).

Pigment printing uses binders rather than dye-fibre bonds; it sits on the surface, giving good light fastness but stiffer handle and lower rub fastness.

Registration is the alignment of successive print colours; misregistration shows as gaps or overlaps at colour boundaries.

Metamerism: two samples can match under one light source but differ under another - always confirm colour match under the specified illuminant (e.g. D65).

Body measurements for drafting: bust/chest, waist, hip, back neck to waist, nape to waist, shoulder, sleeve length, and dart/apex positions.

Ease = garment measurement minus body measurement; wearing ease allows movement, design ease creates the silhouette; woven blouses use roughly 5-10 cm bust ease.

Basic blocks (bodice, skirt, sleeve, trouser) are drafted to a standard figure and then adapted by slash-and-spread or pivot methods.

Dart manipulation: a dart can be moved to any position around the bust apex without changing fit, provided the apex point is retained.

Full bust adjustment adds width and length to the front bodice; a small bust adjustment removes it; both keep the side seam balanced.

Grainline must run parallel to the centre front/back; off-grain cutting causes twisting, hanging and seam puckering.

Pattern symbols: notches (match points), grainline arrow, fold line, dart legs and point, buttonhole placement, and seam allowance (commonly 1.5 cm, 1 cm at necklines, 2.5-4 cm at hems).

Fit diagnosis: horizontal drag lines indicate tightness, vertical folds indicate excess, and diagonal wrinkles indicate twist or imbalance between front and back.

Seam types: plain (open/closed), French (encloses raw edges, best on lightweight), flat-felled (strong, used on denim), overlock, and bound seams.

Stitch types by ISO 4915: lockstitch 301 (straight sewing), overlock 504/514 (edge neatening), coverstitch 406 (hems on knits), chainstitch 401 (stretch seams).

Seam allowance finishes: overlocking, zigzag, pinking, binding, French seam, or flat-felling - choose according to fabric ravelling and garment quality.

Machine tension: balanced when upper and lower threads meet inside the fabric; loops underneath indicate upper tension too loose or bobbin too tight.

Needle selection: universal for wovens, ballpoint/jersey for knits, sharp/microtex for denim and leather, stretch needle for elastane; size 70/10 for fine, 100/16 for heavy.

Interfacing: fusible (iron-on) vs sew-in; apply fusible with correct temperature, pressure and time to avoid bubbling or strike-through.

Pressing is construction: press as you sew, use a clapper and tailor's ham for shaped areas; pressing differs from ironing (which stretches and distorts).

Equipment: industrial lockstitch, overlocker, coverstitch, blind hemmer, buttonholer, and cutting tools (shears, rotary cutter, pattern notcher).

Care label symbols cover five operations: washing (washtub with dots/temperature), bleaching (triangle), drying (square with circle or lines), ironing (iron with dots), and professional care (circle; P = perchloroethylene, F = hydrocarbon).

A cross through a symbol means do not perform that operation; a bar under the washtub means mild/gentle cycle; two bars mean very mild.

Water temperature dots: one dot = cold/30 °C, two = warm/40 °C, three = hot/60 °C, four = very hot/95 °C (symbol conventions vary; follow the label).

Wool requires neutral detergent, low agitation and flat drying to prevent felting; silk needs mild detergent and no direct sunlight.

Chlorine bleach damages wool, silk and elastane; oxygen (colour-safe) bleach is suitable for most coloured cellulosics.

Dry-cleaning solvents: perchloroethylene (P) for most fabrics; hydrocarbon (F) for delicate trims and beads; some garments are dry-clean only due to trim or interfacing.

Ironing temperatures: nylon/acetate low (~110 °C), wool/silk medium (~150 °C), cotton/linen high (~200 °C); use a pressing cloth on synthetics.

Shrinkage tolerance: woven cotton may shrink 3-5% unless sanforized; knits and viscose can shrink more - pre-wash fabric before cutting.

Sorting rules: by colour (white, light, dark), fabric type, and degree of soiling; wash new dark garments separately to avoid dye transfer.

Detergent chemistry: surfactants lift soil, builders soften water, enzymes break down protein (protease) and starch (amylase) soils; do not use enzyme detergent on wool or silk.

Water hardness affects detergent dose - hard water needs more detergent or a builder; soft water risks over-sudsing.

Stain removal order: remove excess, blot (do not rub), pre-treat, wash at the highest safe temperature; protein stains use cold water, tannin stains may need oxygen bleach.

Spotting agents: solvent for grease/oil, water-based for sugars and drinks, rust remover (oxalic/hydrofluoric acid-based) for rust - always test on a hidden area.

Loading: do not overload the drum; clothes need room to circulate, and overloading causes poor soil removal and creasing.

Drying: line dry in shade to prevent fading; tumble dry on low for synthetics; knits dry flat to retain shape.

Maintenance: clean lint filters, descale, and check hoses; store garments on appropriate hangers (padded for knits, clip for skirts) to avoid distortion.

Colour wheel: primary (red, yellow, blue in traditional RYB), secondary (orange, green, violet), tertiary (mixes); harmonies include complementary, analogous, triadic, and split-complementary.

Colour properties: hue (name), value (lightness/darkness), and chroma/saturation (intensity); tints add white, shades add black, tones add grey.

Warm colours (red, orange, yellow) advance and enlarge; cool colours (blue, green, violet) recede and slim - used to control visual proportion.

Simultaneous contrast: a colour appears different depending on its surrounding colour; test fabric swatches against the intended background.

Fashion figure proportions: typically 8-9 heads tall for illustration (vs 7-7.5 for real figures); croquis are used as a base for design sketching.

Illustration media: marker, watercolour, gouache, and digital (Procreate, Illustrator); flat drawings (technical flats) communicate construction details without figure distortion.

Design principles: balance, rhythm, emphasis, proportion, scale, and unity; garment lines (vertical, horizontal, diagonal, curved) direct the eye and alter perceived shape.

Trend research uses colour forecasting services (e.g. Pantone, WGSN), mood boards, and range planning to align collections with seasonal palettes.

Costing formula: total cost = direct materials + direct labour + overheads; selling price = total cost + margin (markup is calculated on cost, margin on selling price).

Markup % on cost = (selling price − cost) / cost × 100; margin % = (selling price − cost) / selling price × 100.

Break-even quantity = fixed costs / (selling price per unit − variable cost per unit).

Fabric consumption estimate: garment area × number of pattern pieces ÷ fabric width, plus wastage allowance (typically 10-15%) for matching, nap and shrinkage.

Textile supply chain: fibre → yarn → fabric → garment → retail; each stage adds value and cost, and lead times lengthen downstream.

Consumer rights: right to safety, information, choice, redress, and representation; care labels and fibre content labels are legal requirements in many markets.

Fast fashion economics rely on short lead times, small initial orders with rapid replenishment, and low unit costs from volume.

Price vs quality: check fibre content, construction (seam finish, stitch density), and country of origin - price alone does not indicate durability.

Textile hazards: cotton dust (byssinosis) in mills, formaldehyde from resin finishes, azo dyes that can cleave to carcinogenic amines, and heavy metals in some pigments.

Machine safety: needle guards, eye protection when using overlockers, keep fingers clear of the needle, and switch off before threading or changing needles.

Ergonomics: adjust chair and table height, take breaks from repetitive sewing, and use good lighting to reduce eye strain.

Sustainability hierarchy: reduce, reuse, repair, recycle; design for durability and disassembly improves end-of-life recyclability.

Fibre impacts: cotton is water-intensive; polyester is fossil-derived and sheds microplastics on washing; wool and silk raise animal welfare concerns.

Circular economy tools: take-back schemes, fibre-to-fibre recycling, extended producer responsibility (EPR), and transparency via supply-chain traceability.

Ethical practice: fair wages, no child labour, safe working conditions, and audit schemes (e.g. Fairtrade, GOTS, SA8000, BSCI) verify compliance.

Certifications: GOTS (organic cotton), OEKO-TEX Standard 100 (harmful substances), GRS (recycled content), and bluesign (chemical management).