JCE Clothing and Textiles key terms

A short natural or manufactured fibre measured in centimetres rather than metres, which must be twisted together with others to make a yarn. Cotton, wool and flax are typical examples.

A continuous, indefinite-length fibre produced naturally by silkworms or extruded through spinnerets in manufacturing. Filaments may be used as single strands or cut into staple lengths.

The spiral arrangement of fibres around a yarn axis, measured in turns per unit length and direction (S or Z). Twist adds strength but reduces softness and lustre.

A number expressing yarn thickness. Indirect systems such as cotton count rise as yarn gets finer, while direct systems such as tex measure mass per fixed length.

The simplest interlacing where each warp end passes alternately over and under each weft pick. It gives a firm, flat, durable cloth with low stretch and is the base for many fabrics.

An interlacing producing diagonal lines on the fabric surface because warp and weft cross in a stepped progression. Twills drape well, resist soiling and are common in denim and gabardine.

The two thread systems in woven cloth. Warp threads run lengthwise, parallel to the selvedge, and are stronger and more tightly tensioned; weft threads run across the width.

The firm, finished edge running along the length of a woven fabric where the weft turns back. It does not fray and helps identify the warp direction and grain.

The mass of a fabric expressed per unit area, usually grams per square metre. It indicates suitability for a garment type and influences drape, warmth and needle choice.

A treatment of cotton with caustic soda under tension that swells the fibres, increasing strength, lustre and dye uptake and improving dimensional stability. It is a permanent finish.

Passing fabric between heated rollers to flatten the surface and produce a smooth, glazed or embossed appearance. The effect is temporary and diminishes with washing.

A resin treatment that cross-links cellulose fibres so garments resist wrinkling and hold pressed creases through repeated laundering. It may reduce strength and abrasion resistance.

A chemical treatment that slows ignition or self-extinguishes a fabric by interrupting the combustion cycle. Durability depends on the chemical and fibre and must be stated on care information.

The attraction between a particular fibre and a class of dye, determining how readily colour is absorbed and how firmly it is held. It explains why fibre content dictates dye selection.

A substance, often a metal salt, applied to fibre before dyeing to fix the dye and sometimes alter the resulting shade. Historically important for natural dyes on cellulose and protein fibres.

The resistance of a dyed or printed fabric to fading or bleeding under washing, light, rubbing or perspiration. It is assessed against standard grey scales and quoted in test results.

A method where a dye-free paste is printed onto a piece-dyed fabric to remove colour in a pattern, optionally adding a new colour. It produces light motifs on a dark ground.

Technique that prevents dye reaching selected areas by applying a paste, wax or tie before dyeing. Batik and tie-dye are familiar examples, giving soft-edged patterned effects.

The accurate alignment of successive print colours or pattern repeats so edges meet cleanly without gaps or overlap. Poor registration is a common visible fault in printed cloth.

The distance before a printed or woven design begins again. Extra fabric must be bought to match repeats at seams, and the repeat size affects layout and cost.

The direction parallel to the warp threads or selvedge. Pattern pieces are normally laid with this grain line parallel to the selvedge so garments hang correctly and do not twist.

The diagonal direction of a woven fabric at 45 degrees to the warp and weft. It stretches most and drapes fluidly, making it suitable for bias-cut garments and binding strips.

A stitched wedge of fabric that removes excess fullness to shape a garment to body curves, commonly at bust, waist and shoulder. Its point and legs must be sewn accurately.

The extra allowance added to body measurements beyond the pattern's fitted size to permit movement and comfort. Wearing ease is design allowance; design ease creates a looser silhouette.

A trial garment made in inexpensive plain cloth to test fit, proportion and construction before cutting the final fabric. Alterations are transferred from the toile back to the pattern.

The strip of fabric between the stitching line and the raw edge, typically 1.5 cm on commercial patterns. It must be added when drafting patterns from body measurements.

A line of straight stitching just inside the seam line on curved edges to prevent stretching before construction. It is worked in the direction of the curve and is not removed.

Stitching the seam allowances to the facing close to the seam so the facing rolls to the inside and stays flat. It improves the finish on necklines and armholes.

A supporting fabric attached to the wrong side of garment pieces to add body and prevent stretching, used in collars, cuffs and waistbands. It may be sew-in or fusible.

A shaped piece of fabric sewn to a garment edge and turned inside to finish it neatly. It follows the edge shape and is often interfaced for crispness.

A permanently attached label giving washing, bleaching, drying, ironing and dry-cleaning instructions. Manufacturers must ensure instructions are accurate and, in many markets, legally required.

Loss of dye from a garment into washing water, which may transfer onto other items in the same load. It is reduced by sorting colours and testing for colourfastness first.

A circular arrangement of hues showing primary, secondary and tertiary relationships. Designers use it to select harmonious schemes such as complementary, analogous or triadic combinations.

The relative lightness or darkness of a colour, independent of its hue. Contrasting values create emphasis and readability in fashion illustration and garment design.

The attribute that names a colour family, such as red, blue or yellow, and distinguishes it from others. Hue is separate from value and from saturation or intensity.

A document itemising all costs of producing a garment, including fabric, trims, labour, overheads and profit margin. It supports pricing decisions and identifies where cost can be reduced.

A plan showing pattern pieces laid out economically on fabric to minimise waste while respecting grain and repeat. Marker efficiency directly affects fabric cost per garment.

The proportion of fabric bought but not used in the finished garment, arising from cutting waste, faults and repeat matching. Reducing it lowers unit cost and environmental impact.

Selecting fibres, yarns and trims that limit environmental and social harm, for example certified organic cotton or recycled polyester with traceable supply chains. Claims should be verifiable.

A model where garments are designed, used and recovered so materials stay in use, through durability, repair, resale and recycling. It contrasts with the linear take-make-dispose approach.

Making misleading environmental claims about a product so it appears more sustainable than it is. It undermines consumer trust and breaches advertising standards in many countries.