Pattern Drafting
What this domain tests
Pattern drafting is the construction of a flat pattern from body measurements. The exam tests tools, measurement accuracy, ease, grainline, symbols and the ability to draft a simple block such as a skirt or bodice.
Core rules
- Use a tape measure, pattern paper, metre rule, set square, French curve, tracing wheel, notcher and pencils. Mark grainline parallel to centre front or centre back unless the design is cut on the bias.
- Take body measurements over light clothing, keeping the tape level and snug but not tight. Add wearing ease (movement) and design ease (style) before drafting.
- A basic skirt block uses waist, hip and skirt length. Quarter measurements are common because the block is half the body; add seam allowance only when instructed, and label it.
- Pattern symbols include grainline, fold line, notches, darts, CF/CB, seam allowance and cutting line. True darts and curves so seams match.
Worked example
Waist 72 cm, hip 96 cm, skirt length 60 cm. For a half-block, draft a rectangle using hip/4 = 24 cm plus 2 cm ease = 26 cm wide; waist/4 = 18 cm plus 2 cm ease and 3 cm dart = 23 cm at waist. Draw the side seam from waist to hip, curve the waist, add a 3 cm dart, then add 1.5 cm seam allowance. The reasoning shows why the waist is wider than 18 cm: ease and dart intake must be included.
Traps
Forgetting ease makes a garment too tight; mixing body and garment measurements causes errors. Do not add seam allowance twice. A dart is not a pleat. Check that grainline, notches and fold lines are marked before cutting.