Adaptation and Fit
What this domain tests
Adaptation changes a basic block into a design; fit corrects the garment on the body. The exam tests dart manipulation, style lines, ease, balance and common fitting faults.
Core rules
- Adapt by moving darts, adding seams, yokes, flares, collars, cuffs or pockets. Preserve grainline, CF/CB and essential markings; true every altered edge.
- Fit is judged with the garment on the body: grainline vertical, side seams vertical, bust/waist/hip levels horizontal, and enough ease to sit, breathe and move.
- Common faults: horizontal wrinkles = too tight or insufficient ease; vertical folds = too much width; diagonal drag lines = imbalance or twisted grain; gaping neckline = neckline too wide or dart insufficient.
- A full-bust adjustment adds length and width over the bust and removes it below; a sway-back adjustment shortens the back waist.
Worked example
A bodice pattern fits at the shoulders but strains across the bust and rides up at the front waist. Reason: the front bodice needs a full-bust adjustment. Slash the pattern from the bust point to the side seam and to the waist, spread to add bust width and length, then redraw the dart and true the waist. The back may also need a sway-back alteration. The reasoning separates bust volume from shoulder fit.
Traps
Do not fix a fitting fault by letting out every seam; identify the cause. Do not ignore grainline-off-grain garments hang and twist. Do not overfit: garments need ease. Remember that altering the pattern is different from pinning a garment on the body.