Garment Construction Techniques and Equipment
What this domain tests
This domain tests seams, hems, openings, pressing and the safe use of sewing equipment. Expect questions on choosing a construction method for a fabric and end use.
Core rules
- Plain seam: general use, neatened with zigzag, overlock or pinking. French seam: encloses raw edges, good for sheer or light fabrics. Flat-fell: strong and enclosed, good for jeans and workwear. Bound seam: neat for unlined jackets.
- Hems: double-fold, blind, machine and faced. Choose according to fabric weight and desired look.
- Pressing is not ironing: pressing lifts and lowers the iron to shape; ironing slides it and can stretch fabric. Press seams flat, then open, then as worn.
- Equipment: sewing machine (needle, stitch length, tension), overlocker (edge neatening), iron and pressing cloth, shears, pins, tape. Match needle size and thread to fabric.
Worked example
A sheer chiffon blouse needs a neat inside. Choose a French seam. Sew a narrow seam with wrong sides together, trim to 5 mm, press, turn right sides together and stitch 1 cm, enclosing the raw edges. Reason: chiffon frays and is transparent, so a plain seam would show and fray; a French seam gives a clean, strong finish without bulk.
Traps
Do not use a French seam on bulky fabric or a flat-fell on delicate sheer fabric. Do not confuse pressing with ironing. Check tension and stitch length on a scrap first. Do not forget backstitching at seam ends unless instructed.