Vehicle knowledge, riding technique and maintenance
What this domain tests
Whether you can keep the machine roadworthy and ride it within its limits: checks, tyres, chain, brakes, suspension and load.
Pre-ride routine
Use a fixed sequence every time: tyres (cold pressure, cuts, tread), controls (throttle, clutch, levers, cables), lights and horn, oil and fluid levels, chassis (leaks, steering head, wheel play), chain and sprockets. Norwegian rules require at least 1 mm tread on motorcycle tyres; below that the tyre is illegal however it feels. Chain slack is set by the manual, typically 25–35 mm, and a dry or over-tight chain can fail or damage the gearbox bearing.
Braking and cornering
On dry asphalt the front brake provides most of the stopping power; squeeze progressively instead of snatching, and use the rear to stabilise. In rain, on gravel or with a passenger, be smoother and use more rear brake. ABS keeps the wheel turning but cannot break physics. Countersteer gently to start the lean, look through the corner and open the throttle as the bike stands up.
Worked example
With a pillion and full luggage the headlight points up and the rear squats under acceleration. Reasoning: preload and pressures are still set for a solo rider. You increase rear preload, raise tyre pressures to the two-up figures in the manual, and re-check chain slack, since the loaded suspension compresses.
Traps that cost marks
Setting hot tyre pressures to the cold figure. Overtightening the chain. Grabbing the front brake mid-corner with a passenger aboard. Ignoring a spongy brake lever - usually air in the system or old fluid.