Repair, Restoration, and Maintenance
Finding the problem
Water travels, so a ceiling stain rarely sits under the leak. Start uphill and work down: check penetrations, sidewall and chimney flashings, valleys, and ridge details before blaming field tile. Look for cracked, slipped, or missing tile, failed mortar at hips and ridges, corroded fasteners, and debris dams in valleys. Note whether the underlayment is brittle or exposed, because that changes the repair from a tile swap to a restoration.
Replacing a tile
- Lift the tiles above the damaged piece carefully.
- Cut or pull the fasteners with a slate hook or hacksaw blade.
- Slide the broken tile out and the new tile in, engaging the side locks.
- Fasten through the face into the deck with a corrosion-resistant screw where blind nailing is impossible, then seal the hole with a matching approved sealant.
- Reset the lifted tiles and confirm headlap and laps are restored.
Maintenance practice
Keep valleys and gutters clear, trim overhanging branches, and remove moss gently by hand or with approved products. Never pressure wash tile; it strips the surface, drives water in, and voids warranties. Use roof jacks or walk pads, and walk on the lower third of the tile where it is supported. Repoint mortar with a compatible mix, not a hard, brittle patch.
Worked example. A storm leak appears at a valley. Inspection shows cracked tiles and a nail driven near the valley center. The repair replaces three tiles, resets the underlayment lap, and adds new valley metal, with no fastener within 6 in. of the centerline.
Traps. Caulking a crack instead of replacing the tile; walking on hips and valleys; pressure washing; using a mismatched tile profile or weight that breaks the bond.