Punjab PSEB Matric Cutting and Tailoring cheat sheet

Cutting shears are sized by blade length in inches (typically 8–10 in); bent-handle shears keep fabric flat on the table because the lower blade stays parallel to the surface.

Pinking shears cut a zigzag edge that limits raveling on firmly woven fabrics; they are not a substitute for a seam finish on loose weaves.

A seam ripper's long point lifts stitches and its small ball tip protects fabric; replace when the point dulls to avoid needle-hole damage.

Tailor's chalk and wax chalk mark most fabrics; on silk, wool crepe, or leather use a tracing wheel with carbon paper or tailor's tacks instead, because chalk leaves permanent marks.

Press cloths (cotton or muslin) between iron and fabric prevent shine on wool and scorching on synthetics; a dry iron is used for fusible interfacing unless the manufacturer states steam.

Iron temperature guide: cotton/linen high (200–230 °C), wool medium (150–160 °C), silk/polyester low (110–150 °C), acetate lowest (about 110 °C); test on a scrap first.

Store shears in a sheath and never cut paper or pins with them - nicks raise burrs that snag fabric and cause skipped or pulled threads.

Machine safety: keep fingers at least 1 cm from the needle, unplug before changing needles or bulbs, and place the presser foot down before starting to avoid needle breakage.

Take measurements over close-fitting clothing with a tape held snug but not tight, parallel to the floor for bust/hip and vertical for length; keep the tape level at the back.

Key circumferences: bust at the fullest point, waist at the natural waist (bend sideways to find it), hip 18–20 cm below the waist at the fullest point.

Key lengths: nape to waist (back neck to waist), shoulder to waist (front), sleeve length from shoulder point to wrist with the arm slightly bent, and skirt length from waist to desired hem.

Ease is added to body measurements, not included in them: fitted blouse 6–8 cm bust ease, semi-fitted 10–12 cm, loose 15 cm or more; skirt waist ease about 2 cm.

Choose pattern size by bust (bodice) or hip (skirt/trousers), then adjust the other areas; commercial size charts assume a B-cup bust and a standard height of about 168 cm.

Children's sizes are given by height in cm (e.g., 92, 98, 104) or by age; check chest and waist because growth patterns vary widely.

Waist-to-hip and bust-to-waist differences indicate the adjustments needed: a large bust-waist difference (over 20 cm) usually needs a full-bust or dart adjustment.

Record measurements in a notebook with date; re-measure every 6 months for growing children or after significant weight change, and note the pattern size used.

Drafting sequence for a bodice: rectangle of bust width by nape-to-waist length, mark bust, waist, and armhole lines, then place darts and neckline before cutting.

Dart intake is transferred, not created: rotating a dart to a new position keeps the same intake but changes the fabric fold direction; slash-and-spread adds fullness instead.

Full-bust adjustment: slash vertically through the bust point and horizontally to the armhole, spread by the needed amount (about 1 cm per cup size), then redraw the dart.

Lengthen or shorten a pattern at the marked adjustment line (usually mid-armhole or mid-thigh), never at the hem, so the shape and grainline stay correct.

Grainline must be parallel to the center front/back or selvage; a slanted grainline causes twisting and garment hang problems.

Seam allowance is added after the draft: 1.5 cm on most seams, 1 cm on necklines and armholes, 4–5 cm on hems; mark it clearly on the pattern.

To grade a pattern between sizes, move each point by the size-chart difference (often 4 cm bust, 3 cm waist, 4 cm hip per size) and redraw curves smoothly.

Notches and balance marks transfer from pattern to fabric; single notch = front, double notch = back; never cut notches inward more than 3 mm - clip outward instead.

Preshrink washable cotton and linen by washing and drying before cutting; wool can be steam-pressed; synthetics generally need no preshrinking.

Check fabric for a nap (corduroy, velvet), one-way design, or plaid repeat; with nap or one-way prints, lay all pattern pieces in the same direction and buy extra fabric for the repeat.

Straighten the grain before layout: tear the crosswise end or pull a thread, then cut along that line so the grainline is truly parallel to the selvage.

Fabric requirement depends on width, size, and nap: a 115 cm width needs more length than 150 cm; plaid and nap add one full repeat plus 10–20 cm.

Fold the fabric right sides together with selvages matched; place pattern pieces on the fold where marked and keep the fold edge exactly on the fold.

Layout rules: largest pieces first, all grainlines parallel to the selvage, darts and small pieces in leftover spaces, and pattern pieces pinned flat with pins inside the seam allowance.

Fabric identification quick tests: burn test - cotton smells like burning paper and leaves grey ash; wool smells like burning hair and leaves a crushable black bead; polyester melts into a hard bead.

Shrinkage and bleeding: test a 10 cm square by washing; if it shrinks more than 2–3%, preshrink the whole length before cutting.

Cut with long, smooth strokes from the base of the shears, keeping the lower blade on the table; never close the blades completely - this lifts and distorts the fabric.

Cut exactly on the marked cutting line, not on the seam allowance edge; hold the pattern down with the palm of the free hand, not with pins.

Cut notches outward (away from the seam allowance), 2–3 mm deep, matching single/double marks to front/back.

Use a rotary cutter and mat for slippery or heavy fabrics and for straight strips; always cut away from the body and close the blade guard after use.

Cutting on the bias stretches the edge; handle bias edges gently and stay-stitch necklines and armholes within 1 cm of the seam line immediately after cutting.

Pins should be placed inside the seam allowance and removed before the needle reaches them; never sew over pins - this bends needles and can break them.

Left-handed cutters use left-handed shears; using right-handed shears causes inaccurate cutting and hand fatigue.

Cut lining and interfacing from the same pattern but check grainline and remove seam allowance where the pattern specifies (interfacing often has no seam allowance).

Running stitch: small, even stitches 2–3 mm long on both sides; used for gathering, tucking, and basting.

Backstitch: one stitch forward, half a stitch back; the strongest hand stitch, used where machine stitching is impossible.

Blanket stitch: worked along an edge with the needle catching the loop; used to finish blanket edges and appliqué.

Slip stitch (invisible hemming): pick up one thread of the garment and a small bite of the hem fold; the thread should not show on the right side.

Seam types: plain (pressed open), French (encloses raw edges, best on light fabrics), flat-felled (strong, used on jeans and shirts), and overlocked/serged.

French seam: sew wrong sides together with a 1 cm seam, trim to 3 mm, turn right sides together, and stitch 6 mm from the fold; raw edges are fully enclosed.

Flat-felled seam: sew a plain seam, trim one allowance to 6 mm, fold the wider allowance over it, tuck under the raw edge, and topstitch.

Seam strength depends on stitch length: 2.5–3 mm for woven fabrics, 2–2.5 mm for lightweight; shorter stitches perforate and weaken fine fabrics.

Needle size guide: 70/10 for silk and fine cotton, 80/12 for medium cotton, 90/14 for denim and corduroy, 100/16 for heavy canvas; match needle to fabric weight.

Thread tension balance: correct stitch has the knot buried in the fabric; loops on the underside mean the top tension is too loose (or bobbin too tight).

Stitch length and width: straight stitch 2.5–3 mm; zigzag for seam finishing 3 mm long, 3–5 mm wide; buttonhole stitch dense and short (0.5 mm).

Backstitch 1 cm at the start and end of every seam to lock stitches; on fine fabrics reduce to 5 mm or tie threads instead.

Staystitch necklines and armholes 1 cm from the seam line in the direction of the grain to prevent stretching.

Clip inward curves (necklines) and notch outward curves (collars) before turning; press seams open or to one side before crossing them.

Order of construction: staystitch, darts, seams, zipper/placket, collar, sleeves, side seams, hem - press after each step.

Serger/overlocker: three-thread stitch finishes edges and can seam knits; differential feed prevents wavy edges on knits and puckering on wovens.

Fit checks in order: shoulder seam on the shoulder point, bust point at the apex, waist at natural waist, side seams vertical, and ease consistent.

Common bodice alterations: narrow shoulders (take in at shoulder seam), sway back (horizontal tuck at back waist), prominent bust (full-bust adjustment), and gaping neckline (dart or take in at neckline).

Trousers: crotch depth too long causes drooping; shorten at the waist or crotch line; wrinkles radiating from the crotch mean the crotch curve is too shallow.

Take in a seam evenly on both sides and taper gradually; never alter more than 2–3 cm per seam without redrafting the pattern.

Hem length: mark with a hem gauge held parallel to the floor, or have the wearer stand while a helper pins; skirt hems should be parallel to the floor all around.

Blind hem on the machine uses a blind-hem foot; hand slip stitch is used for invisible hems on wool and silk; catch only one thread of the garment.

Press, don't iron: lift and lower the iron, use steam, and press each seam before the next construction step; final press on the wrong side with a press cloth.

Finishing touches: remove bastings, trim threads, press buttonholes, and check that buttons align with buttonholes before sewing.

Care-label symbols: washtub = washing (number = max temperature), triangle = bleaching, square = drying, iron = ironing (dots = temperature), circle = dry cleaning.

Iron dot temperatures: one dot 110 °C (acetate, nylon), two dots 150 °C (wool, polyester), three dots 200 °C (cotton, linen).

Wool: hand wash cool or dry clean, do not wring, dry flat; machine washing and tumble drying cause felting and shrinkage.

Cotton and linen: machine wash warm to hot, can be tumble dried, but expect shrinkage of 2–5% on the first wash if not preshrunk.

Silk and rayon: hand wash cool with mild detergent or dry clean; do not bleach; press on the wrong side at low heat with a press cloth.

Polyester and blends: wash warm, tumble dry low; high heat causes permanent wrinkles and shine.

Stain removal: blot, do not rub; cold water for blood and protein stains, warm water for grease; test any solvent on a hidden seam first.

Store garments on shaped hangers, fold knits to avoid stretching, and use cedar or lavender to deter insects on wool.

Fiber classification: natural (cotton, linen, wool, silk) and man-made (regenerated rayon, synthetic polyester, nylon, acrylic); blends combine properties, e.g., poly-cotton resists wrinkling and is stronger.

Weave types: plain (strong, balanced, e.g., poplin, calico), twill (diagonal, durable, e.g., denim, gabardine), satin (lustrous, floats, snag-prone), and pile (velvet, corduroy).

Knit fabrics stretch; use a ballpoint or stretch needle, a stretch stitch or narrow zigzag, and a serger; woven fabrics use a universal needle and straight stitch.

Fabric width and GSM: GSM (grams per square metre) indicates weight - light shirting 100–150 GSM, medium 150–250 GSM, heavy coating 300+ GSM.

Costing a garment: material cost + labour (time × hourly rate) + overhead (electricity, machine depreciation, rent) + 10–20% profit margin = selling price.

Small-business pricing should cover the full cost; a common mistake is pricing only fabric and thread, which ignores labour and overhead.

Marketing basics: identify a target customer (school uniforms, blouse stitching, alterations), keep a sample portfolio, and price alterations by the task, not by the hour.

Record keeping: maintain a measurement book, order book, and daily cash ledger; a written order slip with delivery date and advance payment reduces disputes.

Thread selection: cotton thread for cotton and linen, polyester thread for synthetics and knits, silk thread for silk and basting; thread should match fabric weight.

Bobbin winding should be even and slightly looser than the top thread; a lumpy bobbin causes tension problems and skipped stitches.

Machine maintenance: remove the needle plate and clean lint after each project, oil according to the manual, and change the needle after 8–10 hours of sewing.

Pattern symbols: grainline arrow, fold line, notch, dart, buttonhole, and cutting line; learn each before cutting to avoid costly errors.

Fabric layout for plaids requires matching the plaid at the center front and side seams; buy one extra repeat for matching.

Hand-sewing needles: sharps for general sewing, betweens for quilting and fine hems, tapestry needles for wool and knitting.

Convert body measurements to pattern measurements by adding ease and seam allowance at the correct stage: ease during drafting, seam allowance after drafting.

For a skirt block, the waist dart intake is (waist + ease) subtracted from the hip width divided among 2–3 darts; front darts are usually shorter than back darts.

Sleeve cap ease is about 2–4 cm on a set-in sleeve; too much ease causes puckers, too little causes a tight armhole.

When using a commercial pattern, check the finished garment measurements printed on the envelope rather than the body measurements alone.

Test-fit with a muslin (toile) for costly or fitted garments; mark adjustments on the muslin, transfer to the paper pattern, then cut the fashion fabric.

Fabric grain and pattern grainline must align; cutting off-grain causes twisting, uneven hems, and poor drape that no alteration can fix.

Skipped stitches: causes include a bent or blunt needle, wrong needle for the fabric, incorrect threading, or lint in the bobbin case.

Puckered seams: often caused by too-tight tension, a dull needle, or stretching the fabric while stitching; use a stabilizer on fine fabrics.

Seam grin (thread showing at the seam) occurs when the seam allowance is too narrow or the stitch is too loose; widen the seam or shorten the stitch.

Uneven hem: caused by cutting off-grain or marking the hem without the garment hanging; let a bias garment hang 24 hours before hemming.

Final inspection checklist: seams secure, no loose threads, darts pressed, buttons aligned, hem even, and garment pressed.

Measure twice, cut once: verify all measurements and pattern pieces before cutting because fabric cannot be uncut.

Take measurements in person and record them in a measurement book with the customer's name, date, and garment type.

Provide a written order slip: fabric details, design, measurements, price, advance paid, and delivery date; both parties keep a copy.

Set a realistic delivery time by estimating sewing hours per garment: a simple blouse 4–6 hours, a lined jacket 12–16 hours.

Offer alteration services as a steady income source; price by task (hem 1 unit, zip replacement 2 units) and state a turnaround time.

Maintain quality by checking the garment against the order slip before delivery and offering one free fitting adjustment.

Build repeat business through punctuality, neat finishing, and a small portfolio of completed work displayed in the shop or online.

Plan layout to minimize fabric waste; save scraps for patchwork, pockets, facings, and test pieces.

Use fabric remnants for sampling stitches and testing tension before starting a garment.

Repair and alter existing garments instead of discarding them - a sustainable practice that also builds alteration skills.

Choose durable natural fibers and quality thread to extend garment life; cheap thread breaks and causes seam failure.

Donate or recycle clean textile waste; avoid burning synthetic fabric because it releases toxic fumes.

Ease = pattern measurement − body measurement; always positive for woven garments.

Seam allowance is added outside the stitching line; cutting line = stitching line + seam allowance.

Dart intake = (pattern width − desired width) divided among darts.

Stitch length in mm; shorter stitch = stronger seam but more thread and perforation.

Iron temperature: cotton high, wool medium, silk/synthetic low; test on a scrap.

Grainline parallel to selvage; fold line on the fold; notches outward; pins inside seam allowance.

Practice drafting a bodice and skirt block to scale before the practical exam.

Time yourself on a simple garment: cutting, stitching, and finishing within the exam period.

Keep tools organized: shears, pins, chalk, tape, seam ripper, and a small pressing cloth.

Check the machine before the exam: needle sharp, bobbin full, tension correct, and lint removed.

Press each seam as you sew; neat pressing earns marks for finishing.

Read the question paper fully and plan the order of construction before cutting fabric.

Sit with feet flat and the machine table at elbow height to avoid back and shoulder strain.

Keep the work area well lit; a task lamp reduces eye strain and improves accuracy.

Keep pins in a magnetic pin cushion, not in the mouth, to avoid swallowing or injury.

Unplug the machine before cleaning, oiling, or changing the bulb.

Keep scissors closed and pointed away from the body when carrying them.

Take a short break every 30–40 minutes to stretch hands and back.

Selvage: the finished edge of woven fabric that does not ravel; grainline is parallel to it.

Bias: a 45° diagonal to the grain; it stretches and is used for binding and draping.

Nap: the direction of pile or print; all pattern pieces must be cut in the same direction.

Toile/muslin: a test garment made in cheap fabric to check fit.

Facing: a piece sewn to an edge and turned to the inside to finish it.

Interfacing: a stiffening layer fused or sewn to fabric to add body.

Accuracy of measurements and pattern drafting carries significant marks.

Neatness of stitching, seam finish, and pressing is assessed.

Correct use of tools and safety practices are observed during the practical.

Time management and completion of the garment within the allotted period matter.

A written theory paper tests textile knowledge, tools, and care labels.

Viva questions may ask you to explain a stitch, seam, or alteration.

Cutting without checking grainline or nap direction.

Sewing over pins, which bends or breaks the needle.

Skipping staystitching on curved edges, causing stretched necklines.

Using the wrong needle for the fabric weight.

Pressing with too high a temperature and scorching synthetics.

Not preshrinking washable fabric before cutting.

Tape measure: flexible 150 cm tape for body measurements.

Hem gauge: sliding marker for even hems and button spacing.

Tailor's chalk and tracing wheel for transferring pattern marks.

L-square and curve rulers for drafting accurate lines.

French curve for necklines and armholes.

Seam gauge for consistent seam allowances.

Running stitch: gathering and basting.

Backstitch: strong hand seam.

Blanket stitch: edge finishing.

Slip stitch: invisible hem.

French seam: light fabrics, enclosed edges.

Flat-felled seam: durable, jeans and shirts.

Presser foot holds fabric against feed dogs.

Feed dogs move fabric forward.

Bobbin holds the lower thread.

Tension dial adjusts upper thread tension.

Take-up lever controls thread delivery.

Needle plate guides fabric and protects the bobbin area.

Check fabric for flaws and shade before cutting.

Straighten the grain by tearing or pulling a thread.

Preshrink washable fabrics.

Fold right sides together with selvages matched.

Pin pattern pieces inside seam allowance.

Mark notches and darts before removing the pattern.

Machine blind hem for most woven fabrics.

Hand slip stitch for invisible hems on wool and silk.

Rolled hem for lightweight fabrics and scarves.

Deep hem (4–5 cm) for skirts and trousers.

Let bias garments hang 24 hours before hemming.

Press the hem lightly to avoid a ridge on the right side.

Buttons and buttonholes: buttonhole length = button diameter + thickness.

Zippers: centered, lapped, and invisible; invisible zip for dresses.

Hooks and eyes for waistbands and neckline edges.

Snap fasteners for children's wear and quick openings.

Velcro for removable or adjustable closures.

Test the closure before final stitching.

Press as you sew, not at the end.

Use a press cloth on wool and synthetics.

Press seams open on the wrong side.

Use a ham for curved seams and darts.

Steam and lift the iron rather than sliding it.

Let the garment cool before moving it to avoid distortion.

Height-based sizing: 92, 98, 104, 110, 116 cm.

Chest and waist measurements guide fit.

Add generous ease for growth.

Use adjustable waistbands and hems.

Check sleeve and trouser length against height.

Re-measure every 6 months.

Cost = materials + labour + overhead.

Selling price = cost + profit margin.

Labour rate = monthly income goal ÷ sewing hours available.

Track every order in a ledger.

Offer a written quotation before starting.

Review prices every 6 months.

Cotton: absorbent, breathable, wrinkles, shrinks.

Linen: strong, cool, creases easily.

Wool: warm, elastic, felts with heat and friction.

Silk: lustrous, strong, sensitive to sunlight and perspiration.

Polyester: strong, quick-drying, heat-sensitive.

Rayon: soft, drapey, weak when wet.

Carry all required tools and a notebook.

Wear closed shoes and tie back long hair.

Check the machine before starting.

Read all questions before answering.

Plan the construction sequence.

Leave time for final pressing and inspection.