Punjab PSEB Matric Cutting and Tailoring key terms

The lengthwise direction of woven fabric, parallel to the selvedge. Patterns mark it with an arrow so pieces are placed on the fabric without twisting, which keeps the finished garment hanging straight.

The firmly woven finished edge running along both sides of a woven fabric. It does not fray and is not used inside a garment because it behaves differently from the rest of the cloth.

The diagonal direction of a woven fabric, at 45 degrees to the grainline. Bias-cut strips stretch and drape well, making them useful for binding curved edges such as necklines and armholes.

A narrow strip cut on the bias and folded to enclose a raw edge. Because it stretches, it neatly finishes curves on necklines, armholes and hems without puckering.

The plan for arranging pattern pieces on the fabric before cutting. It follows the layout guide for the size and fabric width, respects grainline and nap, and uses fabric economically.

A raised, directional surface pile on fabrics such as corduroy or velvet. All pattern pieces must be cut facing the same way, otherwise panels look different shades in daylight.

A cutting arrangement in which every pattern piece is placed in the same direction along the fabric. It is required for napped, printed or directional fabrics so shading stays uniform across the garment.

A drawn plan showing how pattern pieces are packed onto the fabric with the least waste. In industry it guides the cutter; in small workshops it is the layout itself.

Using the minimum cloth needed by arranging pieces cleverly, placing small parts in gaps and following grainline rules. It lowers garment cost without spoiling the fit or drape.

Washing or steaming fabric before cutting so it shrinks in advance. This prevents a finished garment from becoming too small after its first wash.

The reduction in fabric size after washing or pressing, common in cotton and viscose. Allowance is added during pattern drafting or the cloth is pre-shrunk before cutting.

A table of standard body dimensions for each size, such as bust, waist, hip and length. Tailors compare a client's measurements with the chart to choose the base size.

The extra room added to body measurements so a garment allows movement and comfort. Wearing ease is built into every size; design ease is added for a loose or fashionable silhouette.

The system of increasing or decreasing pattern dimensions by set amounts to create a range of sizes from one base pattern. It keeps proportions consistent across the size run.

Drawing a paper pattern from body measurements and construction rules. It produces shaped pieces for bodice, sleeve or skirt that are then cut in calico or fabric.

A basic, close-fitting pattern with no design features, made to individual or standard measurements. It is traced and adapted to create many different garment styles.

Changing a basic block pattern to create a new design, for example moving a dart, adding a yoke, collar or flare. It follows rules so the altered pieces still fit together.

A stitched wedge of fabric that removes excess fullness so cloth shapes to the curves of the body. Common darts sit at the bust, waist, shoulder and elbow.

A trial garment made in cheap cotton to test fit and design before cutting the final fabric. Faults found on the toile are corrected on the paper pattern.

The extra width beyond the stitching line, usually 1 to 1.5 cm, that is trimmed or pressed inside the garment. It gives strength and allows later alteration.

The cut edge of fabric that has not been finished and will fray. It is enclosed by seams, overlocking, binding or hemming to give a neat, durable finish.

A stitch formed by an overlock or serger machine that wraps thread around the edge to stop fraying and join seams. It is widely used on knits and lightweight fabrics.

Any method of neatening a seam's raw edges, such as overlocking, zigzag, French seam or binding. It prevents fraying, strengthens the seam and improves the inside appearance.

A strong seam enclosing both raw edges inside a narrow fold, leaving no visible fray. It is used on fine, light fabrics such as lawn, chiffon and silk.

The basic seam made by joining two pieces with right sides together and stitching a straight line. Its edges are pressed open and then neatened by overlocking or another finish.

A line of stitching sewn just inside the seam line on curved edges such as necklines to stop them stretching. It is done before construction and is not removed.

Long, loose hand or machine stitches used to hold fabric layers together temporarily before final stitching. The basting is removed after the permanent seam is sewn.

A soft, weak cotton thread used for temporary hand stitches. It breaks easily and is removed without leaving marks on the garment.

A strong hand stitch made by taking a small step forward then stitching back over it. It is used where machine stitching is impossible, such as on heavy fabric or repairs.

A nearly invisible hand stitch used to join a folded edge to a flat surface, as when finishing hems or attaching linings. The needle picks up only a thread of the background fabric.

Finishing the lower edge of a garment by folding fabric to the inside and stitching it down. The hem allowance depends on the garment style and the fabric weight.

A shaped piece of fabric sewn to a garment edge and turned inside to finish it neatly. It strengthens and supports necklines, armholes and front openings.

A stiffening layer attached to the wrong side of fabric, often at collars, cuffs and facings. It gives shape and support and may be fusible or sew-in.

Checking a garment on the body or toile to identify problems such as drag lines, tightness or sagging. Corrections are marked, then transferred to the pattern and fabric.

Adjusting a finished or partly finished garment to improve fit, such as taking in a side seam, shortening a hem or resetting a sleeve. It is done carefully to preserve balance.

The ordered process of assembling a garment: preparing pieces, joining seams, attaching collars and sleeves, then finishing. Correct sequence keeps the work neat and efficient.

A label giving washing, drying, ironing and bleaching instructions for the fabric. It protects the customer and is required on ready-made clothing sold in shops.

The basic hair-like unit from which yarn and fabric are made. Fibres are natural, such as cotton and wool, or man-made, such as polyester and viscose.

A number expressing the thickness of yarn, for example how many metres weigh one gram. Finer yarns make lighter, smoother cloth and heavier yarns make durable fabric.

Starting and running a tailoring business by identifying customers, pricing work, managing costs and marketing products. Skills include costing, quality control and record keeping.

Working out the total expense of making a garment, including fabric, thread, trims, labour and overheads. It sets a fair selling price and shows whether the work is profitable.

Checking a garment at each stage for faults such as uneven stitching, puckering, mismatched patterns or loose threads. Faults are corrected before the item is sold.

A safety device fitted around the machine needle that shields fingers from the up-and-down movement. It is part of safe practice on industrial and domestic sewing machines.

Rules for using sewing machines safely, such as keeping fingers away from the needle, unplugging before maintenance, and never leaving the machine running unattended.

The metal foot that holds fabric flat against the feed dogs while stitching. Changing it allows special work such as zips, buttonholes and invisible hems.

Toothed metal strips under the needle plate that grip and move fabric forward as you stitch. Lowering them allows free-motion work such as darning or quilting.

The distance the fabric advances between needle penetrations, set on the machine dial. Short stitches suit fine fabric and buttonholes; longer stitches suit heavy fabric and basting.

The balance between upper and lower thread in a machine stitch. Correct tension gives even loops meeting inside the fabric; faulty tension causes loops on one side.

The small spool that holds the lower thread inside the machine. It must be wound evenly and inserted correctly or stitches will loop and break.

Large scissors with angled handles designed for cutting fabric on a table. They are kept sharp and used only on cloth, never on paper, to preserve the edge.

Shears with zigzag blades that cut a saw-tooth edge. The edge frays less and is used as a quick finish on firmly woven fabrics.

A small tool with a sharp hook and point for cutting and removing stitches without damaging the fabric. It is essential for correcting mistakes and alterations.

How heavy or thick a fabric is, usually given in grams per square metre. It guides the choice of garment, needle size and thread for the job.

The distance from selvedge to selvedge, commonly 90 cm, 115 cm or 150 cm. It determines how much cloth is needed and which layout is used.