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Question 1Tools, Equipment and Workplace Safety
In the cutting and tailoring workshop, which tool is used specifically to remove the tiny stitches of a tacking or basting line without tearing the fabric?
- Pinking shears
- Tailor's chalk
- Tracing wheel
- Seam ripper Correct answer.
Explanation
A seam ripper has a small pointed blade with a protective ball tip that slips under a basting or machine stitch and cuts it so the thread can be lifted out. It is the standard unpicking tool in a tailoring workshop because it opens stitches without cutting the cloth. Shears, chalk and tracing wheels perform marking or cutting jobs, not stitch removal.
Question 2Tools, Equipment and Workplace Safety
A student must mark dart lines and grain lines on dark woollen fabric so the marks stay visible during stitching but can be brushed off later. Which marking aid is most suitable?
- Ballpoint pen
- Fountain ink
- Graphite pencil
- Tailor's chalk Correct answer.
Explanation
Tailor's chalk is made for marking cloth: it shows clearly on dark wool and brushes or washes out after stitching. Pencil, ballpoint and ink are permanent writing media that leave marks or damage the fibre and are hard to remove from a finished garment. Marking tools in tailoring are chosen for visibility plus removability.
Question 3Tools, Equipment and Workplace Safety
Which pair of tools is used together to take body measurements accurately in the tailoring workshop?
- Iron and sleeve board
- Pinking shears and thimble
- Needle and seam ripper
- Measuring tape and ruler Correct answer.
Explanation
Body measurements need a flexible measuring tape to follow the curves of the body, and a rigid ruler or set square to read and record the measurement accurately. The other pairs are cutting, stitching and pressing tools that play no part in recording body dimensions. Accuracy at this stage controls the fit of the whole garment.
Question 4Tools, Equipment and Workplace Safety
While operating a treadle or electric sewing machine, why should the operator keep fingers well back and to the sides of the needle and presser foot?
- To improve the appearance of the seam
- To keep the fabric from puckering
- To prevent the needle from piercing the fingers Correct answer.
- To make the machine run faster
Explanation
The needle moves up and down at high speed and can pierce a finger that strays into its path, causing a serious puncture injury. Guiding the fabric from the sides and slightly behind the needle keeps hands clear of the stroke. Speed, puckering and seam appearance depend on machine settings and technique, not on hand position near the needle.
Question 5Tools, Equipment and Workplace Safety
What is the main purpose of wearing a thimble on the middle finger while hand sewing?
- To keep the thread from tangling
- To measure stitch length
- To protect the fingertip when pushing the needle through fabric Correct answer.
- To hold the needle steady
Explanation
A thimble is a small metal or plastic cap worn on the finger that pushes the needle, so its dimpled surface takes the pressure instead of the skin. This protects the fingertip from needle pricks during firm fabrics. It does not grip the needle, control thread tension or measure stitches.
Question 6Tools, Equipment and Workplace Safety
In the workshop, why should sharp tools such as shears, scissors and seam rippers be carried with the points down and the blades closed?
- To keep the blades sharp for longer
- To prevent rust forming on the blades
- To reduce the risk of stabbing someone if you fall or brush past Correct answer.
- To make the tools easier to count during stock check
Explanation
Carrying sharp tools with points down and blades closed is a basic workshop safety rule: if the carrier stumbles or someone walks past, a closed blade cannot cause a puncture wound. Sharpness, stock counting and rust prevention are maintenance or administrative matters and are not affected by carrying position. The rule exists to protect people, not tools.
Question 7Tools, Equipment and Workplace Safety
A student is cutting a thick woollen fabric along a long straight seam line. Which cutting tool gives the cleanest, most controlled cut?
- Small embroidery scissors
- Pinking shears
- Seam ripper
- Dressmaker's shears with long blades Correct answer.
Explanation
Dressmaker's shears have long, heavy blades that stay flat on the table and cut through thick wool in one smooth stroke, so the cut line stays straight. Small embroidery scissors are meant for fine work and would chew the edge, a seam ripper is for unpicking, and pinking shears cut a decorative zigzag rather than a straight seam line. Matching the tool to fabric weight and cut type gives the best result.
Question 8Tools, Equipment and Workplace Safety
Before starting a new stitching job, a student checks the sewing machine needle. Which condition requires the needle to be replaced immediately?
- The needle is a size 14 on medium cotton
- The needle has been used for one light seam
- The needle is new and still in its packet
- The needle is slightly bent at the point Correct answer.
Explanation
A bent or blunted needle can skip stitches, damage the fabric and even break, sending fragments towards the operator's face, so it must be replaced before use. A correctly sized needle in good condition, whether new or lightly used, is safe. Needle condition, not merely age, decides replacement.
Question 9Tools, Equipment and Workplace Safety
Why must the power be switched off and the plug removed before cleaning fluff from around the bobbin case and feed dogs of an electric sewing machine?
- To keep the bobbin thread from unrolling
- To reset the stitch length dial
- To prevent the machine starting accidentally and injuring the hand inside it Correct answer.
- To stop the machine from stitching backwards
Explanation
Reaching into the bobbin area puts fingers close to moving parts, so isolating the power removes the risk of the machine starting if the pedal is touched. This is the lockout principle applied to workshop equipment. Stitch direction, thread unrolling and dial settings are unrelated to electrical isolation.
Question 10Tools, Equipment and Workplace Safety
A student needs to press open a curved armhole seam on a finished bodice without flattening the surrounding shape. Which pressing equipment is most appropriate?
- Flat ironing board only
- Seam roll or sleeve board Correct answer.
- Tailor's clapper
- Pinking shears
Explanation
A seam roll or sleeve board is a narrow, rounded pressing surface that lets a curved seam be pressed open without creasing the garment around it. A flat board would press the curve flat, a clapper is for setting flat seams and creases, and pinking shears are cutting tools. The right pressing surface preserves the three-dimensional shape.
Question 11Tools, Equipment and Workplace Safety
Which routine check best prevents a sewing machine needle from striking the bobbin case and breaking?
- Confirming the needle is correctly inserted, fully up in the clamp and the right size for the thread Correct answer.
- Winding two bobbins instead of one
- Oiling the machine every day
- Polishing the machine cover after use
Explanation
A needle that is not pushed fully into the clamp, is set the wrong way round, or is too heavy for the thread can strike the bobbin case and snap. Correct insertion and matching needle size to thread and fabric keep the needle path clear. Oiling, polishing and bobbin quantity are maintenance or preparation habits but do not prevent needle strikes.
Question 12Tools, Equipment and Workplace Safety
Why is a rubber finger guard or finger shield sometimes fitted to the bed of a sewing machine during training?
- To measure the seam allowance automatically
- To act as a physical barrier between the operator's fingers and the needle Correct answer.
- To guide the thread into the needle eye
- To hold the fabric flat against the feed dogs
Explanation
A finger guard is a small barrier mounted on the machine bed that stops fingers from sliding into the needle path, which is especially useful for beginners. It does not grip the fabric, thread the needle or measure seam allowance; those jobs belong to the feed dogs, the threading path and the seam guide. Its only purpose is injury prevention.
Question 13Tools, Equipment and Workplace Safety
A student's shears have become stiff and are catching on the fabric. What is the correct workshop response?
- Oil the pivot screw lightly and have the shears checked and adjusted by the instructor Correct answer.
- Force the blades open and shut until they loosen
- Use the shears to cut paper so the blades wear smooth
- Soak the shears in water overnight
Explanation
Stiff shears usually need a drop of oil at the pivot and a correct screw adjustment so the blades glide without gaping. Forcing them damages the edge and misaligns the blades, cutting paper blunts them, and soaking in water causes rust. Tools are repaired or adjusted under supervision, not abused into working.
Question 14Tools, Equipment and Workplace Safety
Which combination of personal protective practices is most relevant when using a steam iron at the pressing station?
- Wearing a dust mask and ear plugs
- Leaving the iron face down on the cloth between presses
- Keeping the face and hands away from the steam burst and standing the iron upright when not in use Correct answer.
- Wearing open sandals and loose synthetic clothing
Explanation
Steam can scald the skin and the hot soleplate can burn, so the operator keeps hands and face clear of the steam vent and rests the iron upright on its heel when it is not being used. A dust mask and ear plugs do not address heat hazards, sandals and synthetics increase burn risk, and leaving the iron face down scorches the fabric and can cause a fire.
Question 15Tools, Equipment and Workplace Safety
A student is pinning a pattern to fabric before cutting. Which practice best reduces the risk of pricking the fingers and of the pattern shifting?
- Pushing pins through with the palm of the hand
- Leaving pins open on the table edge
- Placing pins at wide intervals with heads outward and keeping fingers behind the pin point Correct answer.
- Holding pins in the mouth while adjusting the pattern
Explanation
Pins placed at regular intervals with heads facing the cutter are easy to see and remove, and keeping fingers behind the point avoids pricks while the pattern stays anchored. Pushing pins with the palm, holding them in the mouth, or leaving them loose on the table edge all create avoidable injury risks. Safe pinning is a habit that protects hands and keeps the cut accurate.
Question 16Tools, Equipment and Workplace Safety
Why is a tailor's clapper made of hardwood rather than softwood or plastic?
- Hardwood is cheaper than plastic
- Hardwood has enough weight and density to press moisture and shape into the seam as it cools Correct answer.
- Hardwood attracts the fabric so it does not slip
- Hardwood holds heat and presses the seam dry
Explanation
A clapper works by trapping steam and pressure in the seam while it cools; dense hardwood gives the weight and heat retention needed for a crisp, flat result. Softwood is too light and porous to press effectively, plastic can soften or warp with heat, and cost or static attraction are not design reasons. The material is chosen for pressing performance.
Question 17Tools, Equipment and Workplace Safety
Which sequence correctly describes the safe use of a rotary cutter with a cutting mat and ruler?
- Cut with the blade open and the ruler hand across the cut line
- Cut with the guard removed so the blade moves freely
- Cut towards the body with the blade open, then close it
- Cut away from the body with the blade closed between cuts and the hand holding the ruler clear of the blade path Correct answer.
Explanation
A rotary cutter slices with great force, so the safe sequence is to cut away from the body, keep the blade retracted between cuts, and keep the ruler hand clear of the blade path. Cutting towards the body, crossing the cut line with the hand, or removing the guard all put the operator in the path of a very sharp blade. The mat protects the table and the ruler steadies the fabric, but neither replaces safe technique.
Question 18Tools, Equipment and Workplace Safety
A workshop has one electric iron, one sewing machine and a shared cutting table used by several students at once. Which arrangement best controls risk without stopping the work?
- Keep the iron switched on and face down while students move between stations
- Allow all students to crowd the cutting table so the work finishes faster
- Assign clear zones so cutting, stitching and pressing happen away from each other, with the iron cord routed out of walkways Correct answer.
- Run the iron cord across the walkway so it reaches the pressing area
Explanation
Separating cutting, stitching and pressing into defined zones keeps sharp tools away from people using hot equipment and stops cords from becoming trip hazards. Crowding the table, trailing a cord across a walkway, or leaving a hot iron face down all create foreseeable accidents. Good layout is a control measure that costs nothing and keeps production moving.
Question 19Tools, Equipment and Workplace Safety
A student notices a small frayed patch on the rubber insulation of the sewing machine's power cord near the plug. What is the correct action?
- Continue using the machine but avoid touching the cord
- Stop using the machine, tag it out of service and report the fault to the instructor Correct answer.
- Push the cord under the machine so nobody sees the damage
- Wrap the frayed part with ordinary sticking tape and continue
Explanation
Damaged insulation exposes live conductors and creates a shock and fire risk, so the machine must be isolated, tagged and reported for proper repair. Sticking tape is not an electrical repair, hiding the cord conceals the danger, and simply not touching it does not remove the hazard. Fault reporting is a required safety responsibility, not an optional courtesy.
Question 20Tools, Equipment and Workplace Safety
After a hand-sewing session, a student must leave the work area safe for the next class. Which set of actions best meets this requirement?
- Leave needles stuck in the fabric and pins on the floor for the next group
- Throw loose needles into an open waste bin
- Push all pins into the fabric and hang the garment on a hook
- Count and store needles and pins in a closed pin cushion or box, cap the seam ripper, and sweep the floor for dropped pins Correct answer.
Explanation
Needles and pins cause puncture injuries and can carry contamination, so they must be counted, contained and any strays swept up before the room is handed over. Leaving them in fabric, on the floor, in an open bin, or hanging the garment with pins still in it leaves hidden hazards for the next group. Tidying is part of safe practice, not an optional extra.
Question 21Body Measurements and Size Charts
When taking a body measurement for stitching a kameez, the tape measure should be held in which manner to get an accurate reading?
- Held diagonally across the body at all points
- Left very loose and hanging away from the body
- Pulled tightly so it sinks into the body
- Snug against the body without compressing the flesh Correct answer.
Explanation
A tape should sit flat and snug against the body surface but must never be pulled so tight that it presses into the flesh, because that reduces the recorded figure. Keeping it level and parallel to the floor at each point also prevents the reading from slanting. Consistency in tension is what makes measurements repeatable.
Question 22Body Measurements and Size Charts
For a lady's kameez, the bust measurement is taken around which part of the body?
- At the natural waistline
- Around the shoulder tips only
- Just below the bust line at the rib cage
- The fullest part of the bust, keeping the tape level under the arms Correct answer.
Explanation
Bust is measured around the fullest part of the chest with the tape passing under the arms and staying level at the back. This is the key controlling measurement for the kameez bodice. Measuring at another level would not give the circumference needed for the front and back panels.
Question 23Body Measurements and Size Charts
A tailor records a waist measurement of 34 inches. Which description matches how this measurement is correctly taken?
- Around the narrowest part of the torso, usually at the natural waist, tape level Correct answer.
- Around the neck base
- Around the upper thigh
- Around the widest part of the hips
Explanation
Waist is measured at the narrowest part of the torso, generally the natural waist crease, with the tape horizontal all the way round. The person should stand relaxed and not hold the breath. This gives the circumference used to draft the waistline of the kameez or shalwar.
Question 24Body Measurements and Size Charts
Which measurement is taken around the widest part of the lower body, usually about 7 to 8 inches below the natural waist?
- Crotch depth
- Knee
- Hip Correct answer.
- Inseam
Explanation
The hip (or seat) measurement is taken around the fullest part of the buttocks, typically 7 to 8 inches below the natural waist for an adult. It controls the flare of the kameez and the seat of the shalwar. Inseam, knee and crotch depth are vertical or limb measurements, not this circumference.
Question 25Body Measurements and Size Charts
While measuring a client for a shalwar, the tailor records the length from the natural waist down to the ankle bone. Which measurement has been taken?
- Shalwar length Correct answer.
- Crotch depth
- Inseam
- Knee circumference
Explanation
Shalwar length is the vertical distance from the waistline down to the desired hem, commonly at or just above the ankle bone. It sets the total length of the shalwar leg. Inseam and crotch depth are shorter internal vertical measurements used alongside it.
Question 26Body Measurements and Size Charts
Shoulder width for a kameez is measured between which two points?
- From the centre back neck to the waist
- From the tip of one shoulder bone to the tip of the other Correct answer.
- From the neck bone to the shoulder tip on one side
- From armpit to armpit across the front
Explanation
Shoulder width is the horizontal distance from one shoulder tip (the bony point where the sleeve joins) across the back to the other shoulder tip. This measurement controls where the sleeve seam sits. Measuring only one side or across the chest gives a different quantity.
Question 27Body Measurements and Size Charts
A size chart for ladies' ready-made kameez lists bust 36, waist 30, hip 40 in inches. Which body measurement does the size chart use as its primary sizing key?
- Waist
- Bust Correct answer.
- Hip
- Shoulder
Explanation
In ladies' garment size charts the bust circumference is the primary key, with waist and hip given as secondary figures for the same size. A customer whose bust is 36 inches is therefore offered the size built on that bust. Waist and hip are checked for fit adjustments but do not set the size number.
Question 28Body Measurements and Size Charts
A client's actual bust is 37 inches and the size chart offers sizes in 2-inch steps (34, 36, 38). Which ready-made size should be selected for a comfortable fit?
- 36
- 38 Correct answer.
- 34
- No chart size can be used
Explanation
When the body measurement falls between two chart sizes, the larger size is chosen so the garment can be altered down rather than being too tight. A 37-inch bust sits between 36 and 38, so 38 is selected and taken in if needed. Choosing the smaller size would leave no ease for movement.
Question 29Body Measurements and Size Charts
Why is ease added to body measurements when drafting a kameez pattern?
- To make the garment longer than measured
- To correct mistakes in the tape reading
- To allow room for movement and comfort beyond the bare body size Correct answer.
- To match the size chart number exactly
Explanation
Ease is the extra allowance added over the body measurement so the wearer can breathe, sit and move without strain. Without ease a garment cut exactly to body size would be skin-tight and restrictive. The amount of ease depends on the garment style and fabric.
Question 30Body Measurements and Size Charts
A client measures 32 inches at the waist but prefers a loose shalwar with a drawstring. How should the tailor treat the waist figure when drafting?
- Reduce the waist below the body measurement
- Use the body waist with additional ease for the gathered drawstring fit Correct answer.
- Ignore the waist and use only the hip
- Use the bust measurement instead
Explanation
For a gathered drawstring shalwar the waist is not fitted closely, so the body waist is used as a base with generous ease added for gathering and comfort. The hip still controls the seat area. Reducing the waist would make the shalwar impossible to pull on.
Question 31Body Measurements and Size Charts
Two clients both have a 36-inch bust, but one is 5 feet tall and the other is 5 feet 6 inches. What does this show about using bust alone from a size chart?
- Height has no effect on garment length
- Bust sets the size but vertical measurements must still be taken individually Correct answer.
- The taller client must always wear a larger size
- Bust alone guarantees a perfect fit for both
Explanation
Size charts key on circumference such as bust, but lengths like kameez length, sleeve length and shoulder-to-waist vary with height and posture. Two people with the same bust can need quite different vertical dimensions. A tailor therefore records lengths separately rather than relying on the size number.
Question 32Body Measurements and Size Charts
Which measurement is taken from the shoulder tip down the outside of the arm to the wrist bone?
- Armhole
- Bicep circumference
- Sleeve length Correct answer.
- Shoulder width
Explanation
Sleeve length runs from the shoulder tip along the slightly bent arm to the wrist bone. Taking it with the arm bent prevents the finished sleeve from being too short when the elbow flexes. Armhole and bicep are round measurements taken separately.
Question 33Body Measurements and Size Charts
A pattern draft needs the armhole circumference. Where is this measurement taken?
- Around the arm joint at the shoulder, passing over the shoulder tip and under the armpit Correct answer.
- Around the fullest part of the upper arm
- Around the wrist bone
- Across the chest from armpit to armpit
Explanation
Armhole is measured as a loop around the arm joint, passing over the shoulder tip and under the armpit, closing back at the shoulder tip. It sets the size of the armhole curve in the bodice. Bicep and wrist are separate round measurements on the arm.
Question 34Body Measurements and Size Charts
A size chart shows a garment bust of 40 inches for a body bust of 36 inches. What does the 4-inch difference represent?
- A chart printing error
- The ease built into the garment for comfort and style Correct answer.
- The shoulder width
- The seam allowance
Explanation
The gap between the body measurement and the finished garment measurement is the design ease. A 4-inch difference means a relaxed, comfortable fit rather than a fitted one. Seam allowances are separate, small additions inside the pattern.
Question 35Body Measurements and Size Charts
How is the neck circumference measured for a kameez collar?
- Around the throat only at the front
- Around the widest part of the head
- Around the base of the neck where the collar sits, tape level Correct answer.
- From the neck bone to the shoulder tip
Explanation
Neck circumference is taken around the base of the neck, at the level where the collar will rest, keeping the tape level all round. This ensures the neckline opening is large enough to pass over the head but still neat. Measuring the head or only the front gives the wrong loop.
Question 36Body Measurements and Size Charts
A tailor measures crotch depth by seating the client on a flat chair and measuring vertically from the waist to the chair seat. Why is this method used?
- It replaces the hip measurement
- It measures the knee position
- It is faster than any other measurement
- Sitting fixes the seat level so the depth is recorded consistently Correct answer.
Explanation
Crotch depth must reflect how far the body drops from waist to seat, and sitting on a firm flat surface fixes that seat level reliably. The vertical distance from waistline to the chair gives the depth used for the shalwar crotch curve. Standing measurements cannot capture this curve accurately.
Question 37Body Measurements and Size Charts
Which pair of measurements is most essential for drafting the seat and leg of a shalwar?
- Hip circumference and shalwar length Correct answer.
- Bust and shoulder width
- Neck and sleeve length
- Wrist and bicep
Explanation
The shalwar is a lower garment, so its seat is controlled by hip circumference and its overall drop by shalwar length. Crotch depth and knee circumference are added for shaping, but hip and length are the primary pair. Upper-body measurements do not draft a shalwar.
Question 38Body Measurements and Size Charts
A client insists her bust is 34 inches, but a fresh measurement with the tape level gives 36 inches. What is the correct professional response?
- Re-measure carefully with the tape level and record the verified figure Correct answer.
- Add 2 inches to the client's figure and record 36
- Record 34 because the client knows her body
- Average the two figures to 35
Explanation
The tailor's job is to record an accurate, verified measurement, so the tape is checked for level placement and the measurement repeated. The verified figure, not the client's memory, is what the pattern needs. Averaging or guessing introduces error into the draft.
Question 39Body Measurements and Size Charts
When measuring kameez length on a standing client, from which point is the tape started?
- The bust line down to the waist
- The nape or high shoulder point, down to the desired hem Correct answer.
- The waistline down to the knee
- The shoulder tip down the arm
Explanation
Kameez length is taken from the nape at the back of the neck, or from the high shoulder point, straight down the front or back to the chosen hem level. This gives the full garment length from shoulder to hem. Starting at the waist or arm would measure a different quantity.
Question 40Body Measurements and Size Charts
A size chart gives bust 38, waist 32 and hip 42 for size M. A client has bust 38 but hip 44. What is the soundest drafting decision?
- Reduce the waist to compensate for the hip
- Use size M unchanged because the bust matches
- Use a larger size throughout to fix the hip
- Use size M as the base and add extra width at the hip Correct answer.
Explanation
When the bust matches a size but the hip is larger, the chart size is used as the base and the pattern is graded out at the hip only. Altering the whole garment upward would make the bust too loose. Adjusting one area keeps the rest of the fit correct.
Question 41Body Measurements and Size Charts
A pattern is drafted with 1 inch of design ease at the bust. The fabric chosen shrinks about 2 percent after washing. How should the cutter allow for this?
- Ignore it because ease already covers shrinkage
- Remove the design ease to compensate
- Pre-shrink the fabric or add shrinkage allowance before cutting Correct answer.
- Cut the garment smaller than the body measurement
Explanation
Shrinkage is a fabric property separate from design ease, so the fabric should be pre-shrunk or an explicit shrinkage allowance added to the pattern before cutting. Design ease is meant for comfort and movement, not for absorbing shrinkage. Cutting smaller than the body would make the garment unwearable.
Question 42Body Measurements and Size Charts
Two clients have identical bust, waist and hip figures, yet one needs a noticeably longer sleeve and a deeper armhole. Which explanation is most consistent with measurement practice?
- Circumference measurements always determine sleeve length
- Circumference measurements do not capture limb length or body depth, which vary independently Correct answer.
- The size chart must be wrong for one of them
- Armhole depth is fixed by bust size alone
Explanation
Circumference figures such as bust, waist and hip describe girth only; limb length and body depth vary independently between individuals. Sleeve length and armhole depth must therefore be measured on each client. Assuming they follow from bust size leads to poorly fitting sleeves.
Question 43Body Measurements and Size Charts
A client's waist measures 30 inches but she wears her shalwar low, about 2 inches below the natural waist. How should the waistline for the shalwar be set?
- Take the waist circumference at the low level where the shalwar will actually sit Correct answer.
- Use the hip circumference as the waist
- Add 2 inches to the natural waist circumference
- Use the natural waist figure without change
Explanation
The waistline of a garment must be measured at the level where it will be worn, because the body circumference changes as you move down from the natural waist. For a low-sitting shalwar the tape is placed at that lower level. Using the natural waist figure would make the waistband sit incorrectly.
Question 44Body Measurements and Size Charts
A size chart designed for a 5 foot 6 inch model is used for a client who is 5 feet tall with the same bust. Which adjustment best preserves the intended fit?
- Add ease at the bust to compensate for height
- Keep the circumference size and shorten the length measurements proportionally Correct answer.
- Shorten the circumference measurements as well
- Use a smaller size to reduce all dimensions
Explanation
Circumference and length are independent, so the correct approach is to keep the chart size for girth and reduce the vertical lengths to suit the shorter figure, often by adjusting at a designated shorten line. Reducing circumferences as well would make the garment too tight. Height does not change the bust requirement.
Question 45Pattern Drafting and Adaptation
In the standard bodice block used for a Punjabi school shirt, which measurement decides the depth of the armhole (scye depth) when no direct scye measurement is taken?
- Shoulder width
- Neck round
- Bust/chest round and back length combined by formula Correct answer.
- Chest circumference
Explanation
When the scye depth is not measured directly, drafters calculate it from the bust or chest round together with the back (nape-to-waist) length, because armhole depth grows with torso girth and torso length. Neck round and shoulder width control the neckline and shoulder slope, not armhole depth. Using a single girth figure alone ignores torso length and gives a poor fit.
Question 46Pattern Drafting and Adaptation
A kameez pattern is being adapted for a client whose waist is 8 cm larger than the bust. What is the correct drafting response at the waistline?
- Add the excess to the side seam and convert the front dart into a tuck or gather
- Reduce the armhole depth to compensate
- Suppress the waist dart entirely and let the side seam flare out Correct answer.
- Increase the waist dart intake so the waist measures larger than the bust
Explanation
When the waist exceeds the bust, the body needs more circumference at the waist than at the chest, so the dart intake must be removed and the side seam allowed to flare outward. Keeping a normal dart would make the garment tight at the waist. Armhole depth has no bearing on waist circumference.
Question 47Pattern Drafting and Adaptation
Which tool is most appropriate for drawing the smooth curved neckline and armhole of a kameez draft on pattern paper?
- French curve Correct answer.
- Seam ripper
- Tailor's square
- Pinking shears
Explanation
A French curve is a shaped ruler designed for drawing smooth, continuous curves such as necklines, armholes and crotch curves. A tailor's square gives straight edges and right angles, which cannot produce a flowing curve. Seam rippers and pinking shears are cutting and unpicking tools, not drafting aids.
Question 48Pattern Drafting and Adaptation
A shalwar pattern is drafted with a crotch depth that is too shallow for the wearer. What fitting problem will most likely appear?
- The side seams will twist forward
- The waistband will fall down at the back
- The leg openings will become too wide
- The shalwar will ride up and feel tight at the seat when sitting Correct answer.
Explanation
Crotch depth governs the vertical distance from waist to crotch line; if it is drafted too shallow, the fabric pulls up into the seat and the garment rides up when the wearer sits. Waistband slippage relates to waist fitting, not crotch depth. Leg opening width and side-seam twist are controlled by other measurements.
Question 49Pattern Drafting and Adaptation
On a commercial-style pattern, the line marked with arrows that must run parallel to the fabric selvedge is called the:
- Balance mark
- Hemline
- Grainline Correct answer.
- Fold line
Explanation
The grainline is the arrowed line printed on a pattern piece that must be placed parallel to the selvedge so the garment hangs correctly on the lengthwise grain. The fold line marks an edge placed on folded fabric, and balance marks are notches for matching seams. The hemline is simply the lower finished edge.
Question 50Pattern Drafting and Adaptation
A kurta draft is required with a front opening placket. Where should the centre-front line be placed relative to the placket width?
- At the middle of the placket so the button stand overlaps equally Correct answer.
- On the side seam
- Behind the placket by the full placket width
- At the outer edge of the placket
Explanation
For a centred placket, the centre-front line runs through the middle of the placket so that the button stand and buttonhole stand overlap symmetrically when closed. Placing it at the outer edge or behind the placket shifts the opening off-centre. The side seam is unrelated to the front opening.